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09/22/2025 Level of difficulty Size:   u sing Círculo Amigurumi yarn, 2.2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, the tulip  will be approx. 16 cm tall. Materials: ·         Círculo Amigurumi yarn in colors : YELLOW TULIP: o   Cream # 1112; o   Perroquet # 5741; o   Jungle #5089; o   Tropicalia #4171. o   White #8001 (leftover to embroider waterlines in safety eyes version). SALMON TULIP: o   Breeze   # 3047; o   Eucaliptus # 5745; o   Forest green #5368; o   Solar #1317. ·         Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné in colors : o   Brown #880 (for face details); o   Light green #711 (for the veins of the yellow tulip leaves); o   Light green #651 (for the veins of the salmon tulip leaves). ·         2.2 mm Crochet hook. ·         Embroidery needles (Tapestry no. 22 and Crewel no. 7). ·         10 mm Oval safety eyes (2 units – for safety eyes version). ·         Stitch markers . ·         Sewing pins. ·         Scissor . ·         Universal plier. ·         Fiberfill.     Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

10/03/2025 Level of difficulty Sizes: ·           Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, a 2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, the Zombie Dog  will be approx. 9 cm tall. ·           Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, a 2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, the Pumpkin Dog  will be approx. 10 cm tall. ·           Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, a 2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, the Boo-dog  will be approx. 9 cm tall.   Disclaimer:  measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

11/25/2025 ESSENTIAL INFORMATION MATERIALS AND TOOLS ·           Círculo Amigurumi yarn in colors: o    Brownie #7400; o    Dulce de leche # 7077; o    Eco #5083 o    Natural #20; o    Porcelain #7564. ·           Círculo Amigurumi Pelúcia color White #8001 (for hedgehog’s hat). ·           Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné color Dark Brown #880 (for hedgehog’s details). ·           2.2 mm Crochet hook. ·           Embroidery needles (Tapestry no. 22, Crewel no. 9). ·           Fiberfill. ·           Stitch markers . ·           Sewing pins. ·           Scissors . ·           Pliers. ·           Tweezers ·           Silicone glue or fabric glue.   ·           Blush (for cheeks and ears - optional). ·           Gold cord (for ornament hangers - optional).   ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms) ·           BLO: back loops only. ·           Ch: chain stitch. ·           Dc: double crochet. ·           Dec: single crochet decrease (two sc closed together). ·           Hdc: half double crochet. ·           Inc: single crochet increase (two sc into the same stitch). ·           Rnd: round(s). ·           Sc: single crochet. ·           Slst: slip stitch crochet. ·           St: stitch(es). ·           [...] x n: repeat the instructions, within brackets, n times. ·           … : make all stitches, within asterisks, into the same base stitch. ·           (...): total number of stitches in a round/row.   SIZES ·           Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, 2.2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, your pieces will measure approximately: o   Acorn:  1.97 in (5 cm). o   Mushroom:  2.16 in (5.5 cm). o   Pinecone:  2.36 in (6 cm). o   Hedgehog (without Santa hat):  2.95 in (7.5 cm). o   Hedgehog (with Santa hat):  3.94 in (10 cm).   SKILL LEVEL ·           Beginner-intermediate.   Crocheting instructions Each design in this collection includes two color options. Choose your favorite palette and use it consistently throughout the pattern. Refer to the photos for color placement.   ACORN Palette option 1:   Dulce de leche #7077 (acorn body),   Brownie #7400 (acorn cap and stem), Eco #5083 (leaves). Palette option 2:   Porcelain #7564 (acorn body),   Eco #5083 (acorn cap and stem), Dulce de leche #7077 (leaves).   ACORN BODY (NUT) In color Dulce de leche (Amigurumi # 7077) or Porcelain (Amigurumi # 7564). Rnd. 1:  work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  6 inc (12). Rnd. 3:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4:  [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 6 (24). Rnd. 5–11 (7 ROUNDS):  24 sc (24). Rnd. 12:  [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 13:  18 sc (18). Rnd. 14:  [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12).   Stuff the nut firmly with fiberfill .   Rnd. 15:  6 dec (6). Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Weave in the yarn end. Note: When closing the opening and weaving in the yarn end, be careful to keep the base of the acorn slightly pointed. ACORN CAP (CUPULE) In color Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400) or Eco (Amigurumi # 5083). Rnd. 1:   work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2:  7 inc (14). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21) . Rnd. 4 : 20 sc, 1 inc (22) . Rnd. 5–6   (2 ROUNDS):  22 sc (22). Rnd. 7:  [1 slst, 3 hdc into next st] x 11 (44). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end.   Attach the cap to the top of the acorn body Using silicone glue, attach the cap to the top of the acorn body. The top of the acorn body is the more rounded part of the piece. STEM In color Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400) or Eco (Amigurumi # 5083). Rnd. 1:   work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2:   5 BLO-sc (5). Rnd. 3: 3 sc, 1 dec (4). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The stem doesn’t need to be stuffed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing.   Sew the stem to the top of the acorn Using sewing pins , position the stem at the top center of the acorn. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. LEAVES  (MAKE 2) In color Eco (Amigurumi # 5083) or Dulce de leche (Amigurumi # 7077).   Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain.   Rnd. 1:  starting into the second ch from the hook, make [* 1 sc, 2 hdc *, 1 slst] x 2, 4 hdc in the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain and work 1 slst, 2 hdc, 1 sc , 1 slst, 2 hdc (19).   Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end.   Attach the leaves to the top of the acorn and add a hanging cord Using silicone/fabric glue, attach the leaves to the top of the acorn, close to the stem. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   MUSHROOM Palette option 1:   Dulce de leche #7077 and Porcelain #7564  (cap),   Porcelain  #7564 (stem), Natural #20 (cap details). Palette option 2:  Eco #5083 and Porcelain a #7564  (cap),   Porcelain  #7564 (stem), Natural #20 (cap details).   CAP Start in color Dulce de leche  (Amigurumi # 7077) or Eco (Amigurumi # 5083).   Rnd. 1:  work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2:  7 inc (14). Rnd. 3:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 4:  [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28). Rnd. 5:  [3 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 6 : 35 sc (35). Rnd. 7:  [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 7 (42). Rnd. 8 : 42 sc (42). Rnd. 9:  [5 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (49). Rnd. 10–13 (4 ROUNDS):  49 sc (49).   Change to color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564).   Rnd. 14 : 49 sc (49). Rnd. 15:  [5 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (42). Rnd. 16:  [2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 17:  [3 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (28). Rnd. 18:  [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 19:  [1 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (14). Rnd. 20:  7 dec (7).   Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Note: Leave the opening unclosed, as you will use it to add stuffing after shaping the cap.   Locate the Rnd. 12 and, from this point, flatten the cap, shaping it into a shell-like form. The lighter part should face the inside of the concave area.   After shaping, use tweezers to add a small amount of fiberfill into the space inside the cap, just above the opening. The piece should keep its shell shape, so add only enough stuffing to fill the space without making the cap bulge.   STEM In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564). Rnd. 1:  work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  6 inc (12). Rnd. 3:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4:  [5 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (21). Rnd. 5–7 (3 ROUNDS):  21 sc (21). Rnd. 8:  [5 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (18). Rnd. 9 : 18 sc (18). Rnd. 10:  [4 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (15). Rnd. 11–12 (2 ROUNDS):  15 sc (15). Rnd. 13:  [3 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (12). Rnd. 14 : 12 sc (12). Stuff the stem firmly with fiberfill. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.   Sew the stem under the cap Using sewing pins, position the stem opening at the center of the light part of the cap, between Rnd. 19 and 20. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. If necessary, stuff the stem with more fiberfill before closing the seam. Note: To make sewing easier, turn the cap inside out (reversing the shell shape). After sewing, return it to its original shape. CAP DETAILS (MAKE 5) In color Natural (Amigurumi # 20).   Rnd. 1:  work 6 sc in a magic ring (6).   Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end.   Attach the details to the cap and add a gold cord Position the details on top of the mushroom cap and secure them in place with silicone/fabric glue. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   PINECONE Palette option 1:   Dulce de leche #7077 (pinecone base, scales, and stem). Palette option 2:   Brownie #7400 (pinecone base, scales, and stem).   PINECONE BASE In color Dulce de leche  (Amigurumi # 7077) or Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400).   Rnd. 1:   work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  6 inc (12). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18) . Rnd. 4 : [1 BLO-sc, 1 BLO-inc, 1 BLO-sc] x 6 (24) . Rnd. 5 : 24 sc (24). Rnd. 6 : [3 BLO-sc, 1 BLO-inc] x 6 (30) . Rnd. 7 : 30 sc (30). Rnd. 8 : 30 BLO-sc (30) . Rnd. 9 : 30 sc (30). Rnd. 10 : 30 BLO-sc (30) . Rnd. 11 : [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24) . Rnd. 12 : 24 BLO-sc (24) . Rnd. 13 : [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 6 (18) . Rnd. 14 : 18 BLO-sc (18) . Rnd. 15 : [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12) . Rnd. 16 : 12 BLO-sc (12) .   Stuff the piece firmly with fiberfill .   Rnd. 17 : 6 dec (6) .   Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Weave in the yarn end. SCALES In color Dulce de leche  (Amigurumi # 7077) or Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400). To create the pinecone scale effect, we’ll work into all remaining front loops from the rounds worked in BLO at the base. With Rnd. 17 of the pinecone base facing you, pull up a loop of yarn through the last remaining front loop of Rnd. 16 and make ch 1. The first scale will begin in this same loop.Work 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc  into the first loop, skip the next two remaining loops, and make 1 slst into the next loop. Repeat this sequence through all remaining loops of the base. In total, your pinecone will have 39 scales.When you reach the end of the loops, fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Using your fingers, gently adjust the scale shape around the entire pinecone. STEM In color Dulce de leche  (Amigurumi # 7077) or Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400). Rnd. 1:   work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2:   5 BLO-sc (5). Rnd. 3: 3 sc, 1 dec (4). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The stem doesn’t need to be stuffed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing.   Sew the stem to the top of the pinecone and add a gold cord Using sewing pins , position the stem at the top center of the pinecone. With a  tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   HEDGEHOG Palette option 1:  Porcelain #7564 (body, ears, snout, arms, and legs), Brownie #7400 (spikes), Dulce de leche #7077 (bow tie and Santa hat), White #8001 (Santa hat). Palette option 2:  Porcelain #7564 (body, ears, snout, arms, and legs), Eco #5083 (spikes), Dulce de leche #7077 (bow tie), Brownie #7400 (Santa hat), White #8001 (Santa hat).   EARS (MAKE 2) In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564).   Rnd. 1:  make 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in a magic ring (7).   Tighten the magic ring as usual and fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for finishing and sewing. Fold the ear in half and, using a tapestry needle, make a small stitch to join the two layers. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing.   SNOUT In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564). Rnd. 1:   work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. ARMS   (MAKE 2) In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564).   Rnd. 1:   work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2–3 (2 ROUNDS):  6 sc (6).   Flatten the arm opening so that the stitches line up. The arms don’t need to be stuffed.   Rnd. 4:  working through both layers to close the opening, make 2 sc, 1 slst (3).   Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing.   LEGS   (MAKE 2) In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564).   Rnd. 1:   work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:   [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS):  9 sc (9). Rnd. 5:   [1 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (6).   Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The legs don’t need to be stuffed.   Flatten the leg and, using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Then, weave the remaining yarn through the leg, bringing it out at the side of the piece,  where it will later be used for sewing.   BODY In color Porcelain  (Amigurumi # 7564).   Rnd. 1:  work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  6 inc (12). Rnd. 3:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4:  [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 6 (24). Rnd. 5:  [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (30). Rnd. 6:  [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 6 (36). Rnd. 7–17 (11 ROUNDS):  36 sc (36). Rnd. 18:  [2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc] x 6 (30). Rnd. 19:  [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24). Rnd. 20:  [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 21:  [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12).   Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill .   Rnd. 22:  6 dec (6).   Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Weave in the yarn end.   Sew the arms to the sides of the body Using sewing pins, position the arms on both sides of the body, between Rnd. 12 and 14, leaving 20 st of distance between them, counted from the back of the body. With a tapestry needle, sew them firmly in place.   Sew the ears to the sides of the head Using sewing pins, position the ears on the sides of the head, between Rnd. 7 and 8, leaving 20 visible stitches between them at the back of the body. With a tapestry needle, sew them firmly in place. Note: When positioning the ears, align them with the arms so that they form an imaginary straight line along the sides of the body.   Sew the legs to the body   Using sewing pins, position the legs in a horizontal position on both sides of the body, between Rnd. 17 and 19. With a tapestry needle, sew them firmly in place. Note: When positioning the legs, align them with the ears and arms so that they form an imaginary straight line along the sides of the body.   Sew the snout to the body Using sewing pins, center the snout between the ears, over Rnd. 9 and 11. The snout doesn’t need to be stuffed . With a tapestry needle, sew them firmly in place.   Make the face details •           Nose:  using a crewel needle and 1 strand of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #880), embroider the nose at the center of the snout. •           Eyes and eyelashes:  using a crewel needle and 2 strands of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #880), embroider the eyes and eyelashes over Rnd. 8 and 9. Each eye should be approx. 2 st wide and placed 1 st away from the snout. •           Eyebrows:  using a crewel needle and 2 strands of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #880), embroider the eyebrows over Rnd. 7. Each eyebrow should be approx. 1 st in width and 1 round in height, keeping about 7 st of distance between them. •           If you wish, apply blush to the cheeks and inside the ears.   BOW TIE In color Dulce de leche  (Amigurumi # 7077) or Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400).   Rnd. 1:  in a magic ring, work ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 slst, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 slst (12 – ch are included in the stitch count).   Fasten off, leaving a long tail for finishing. Tighten the magic ring as usual. Wrap one of the yarn tails three times around the center of your work to create the bow shape. Then, tie a knot at the back of the piece.   Sew the bow tie to the center of the body Using sewing pins, position the bow tie at the center of the body, just below the snout, between Rnd. 12 and 13. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place.   SPIKES Note: Make sure the body is fully assembled, with all parts sewn in place, before starting the spikes. You’ll need to test the base on the assembled body and check if the number of repeated rounds needs to be adjusted for your piece. PART 1 - SPIKES BASE In color Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400) or Eco (Amigurumi # 5083). Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain.   Rnd. 1:  starting into the second ch from the hook, make 4 sc, 3 sc in the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, and work 3 sc, 1 inc (12). From this point on, all rounds will be worked entirely in BLO. Rnd. 2:  in BLO, work 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18). Rnd. 3: in BLO, work 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 3 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (24). Rnd. 4: in BLO, work 1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 3, 3 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 2 (30). Rnd. 5: in BLO, work 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, [3 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 3 sc, [3 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (36). Rnd. 6: in BLO, work 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 3, 3 sc, [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 2 (42). Rnd. 7: in BLO, work 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, [5 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 3 sc, [5 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (48). Rnd. 8–13 (6 ROUNDS):  in BLO, work 48 sc (48). Note: As you work the last three repeated rounds (Rnds. 11–13), test the fit of the base on the assembled body. Your stitch tension and the type of single crochet you use may affect the height, so you might need to work more or fewer rounds. The spikes base should sit a little forward from the middle of the body, resting gently over the arm seams and aligning with the ears and legs. Keep in mind that when working the spikes (Part 2), the piece tends to shrink slightly, since we will be working into the front free loops. For this reason, the best fit is with the base positioned slightly over the arm seams. On my pieces, I worked 6 repeated rounds. Adjust the number of rounds as needed to fit your piece. Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 2 - SPIKES In color Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400) or Eco (Amigurumi # 5083). To create the spike effect, we’ll work into all remaining front loops of the base.   Start by pulling up a loop of yarn into the first remaining front loop of Rnd. 1 and make ch 5. Make 1 slst into the second remaining loop. From there, repeat the sequence [ch 5, 1 slst] through all remaining loops and then through all front loops of Rnd. 13.   When you reach the end, make an invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Place the piece on the back of the body and, if you wish, secure it in place with silicone/fabric glue. SANTA HAT PART 1 – HAT BODY In color Dulce de leche (Amigurumi # 7077) or Brownie (Amigurumi # 7400).   Rnd. 1:  work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2:  5 sc (5). Rnd. 3:  5 inc (10). Rnd. 4–5 (2 ROUNDS):  10 sc (10). Rnd. 6:  [1 sc, 1 inc] x 5 (15). Rnd. 7–9 (3 ROUNDS):  15 sc (15).   Change to color White  (Amigurumi Pelúcia # 8001).   Rnd. 10:  [2 hdc, 2 hdc into next st] x 5 (20). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 2 - POMPOM In color White  (Amigurumi Pelúcia # 8001). Rnd. 1:  work ch 2 and 5 dc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2:  make only 1 slst (1). Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. To shape the pompom, using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close the opening. Weave in the yarn end. Finally, gently shape the piece to define the round form.     Attach the pompom and finish the hat Place the pompom at the tip of the hat and secure it in place with silicone/fabric glue.Fold the top of the hat down to one side. Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn in the same color as the hat body, make a small stitch to secure the underside of the folded section to the hat, keeping the fold in place. Fold the tip of the hat in half. Lightly stuff the hat with fiberfill.   Sew the hat to the top of the piece and add a gold cord Pin the hat on the top of the piece and sew it firmly in place. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/25/2025 Level of difficulty SIZES · Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, 2.0 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, your pieces will measure approximately: o Mama Duck: 4.92 in (12.5 cm). o Baby Duck: 1.97 in (5 cm). MATERIALS AND TOOLS · Círculo Amigurumi yarn in colors: o Cream #1112; o Off-white #8176. · Círculo Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o Dark Cheddar #4131; o Pink Pepper #7078. · Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné color Brown #882 (for details). · 1.8 and 2.0 mm Crochet hooks. · Embroidery needles (Tapestry no. 22, Crewel no. 9, and Milliner no. 5). · Fiberfill. · Stitch markers. · Sewing pins. · Scissors. · Pliers. · Fabric glue. · Fabric stiffener (optional). · Blush (for cheeks - optional). ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms) · BLO: back loops only. · Ch: chain stitch. · Dc: double crochet. · Dec: single crochet decrease (two sc closed together). · Hdc: half double crochet. · Hdc-inc: half double crochet increase (two hdc into the same stitch). · Inc: single crochet increase (two sc into the same stitch). · Mini picot: picot stitch crocheted with two ch (two ch and then make a slst into the back bump of the second ch from the hook). · Rnd: round(s). · Sc: single crochet. · Slst: slip stitch crochet. · St: stitch(es). · Tr: treble crochet. · [...] x n: repeat the instructions, within brackets, n times. · …: make all stitches, within asterisks, into the same base stitch. · (...): total number of stitches in a round/row. Crocheting Instructions GENERAL NOTE: This pattern uses two types of yarn (Amigurumi and Amigurumi Slim) and two hook sizes throughout the project. Pay close attention to the yarn and hook recommendations specified in each section of the pattern to achieve the best results. During the development of this project, 1.8 mm and 2.0 mm hooks were used; however, you may choose other combinations, such as 2.0 mm and 2.2 mm, depending on your tension and personal preference. If you choose to work the project using only one type of yarn or a single hook size, please note that the finish and overall result may differ from what is shown in the photos, as some parts may become disproportionate. MAMA DUCK HEAD AND BODY In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. We will start with the head. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 7 inc (14). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28). Rnd. 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 6–12 (7 ROUNDS): 35 sc (35). Rnd. 13: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (28). Rnd. 14: [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 15: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (14). Rnd. 16: 14 sc (14). Stuff the head with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you go. From this point on, we'll start the body. Rnd. 17: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 18–20 (3 ROUNDS): 21 sc (21). Rnd. 21: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28).Rnd. 22: 28 sc (28). Rnd. 23: 4 sc, [1 inc, 1 sc] x 3, 18 sc (31). Rnd. 24: 20 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (33). Rnd. 25: 4 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 3, 11 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc (37). Rnd. 26: 37 sc (37). Rnd. 27: 5 sc, [1 inc, 3 sc] x 3, 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (42). Rnd. 28: 28 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 3, 5 sc (45). Rnd. 29: 6 sc, [1 inc, 4 sc] x 3, 24 sc (48). Rnd. 30: 48 sc (48). Rnd. 31: 7 sc, [1 inc, 5 sc] x 3, 23 sc (51). Rnd. 32: 11 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 32 sc (53). Rnd. 33: 53 sc (53). Rnd. 34: 8 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, ch 3. Working back into the foundation chains, starting into the second ch from the hook, make 2 sc, then 1 sc in the same st where the chains were started. Continue around the body with 6 sc, 1 inc, 30 sc (58 – ch don’t count toward the stitch total). Rnd. 35: 17 sc, on the other side of the foundation chains work 1 sc, 1 inc. Continue around with 1 inc, 40 sc (62). Note: The foundation chains mentioned in Rnd. 35 refer to the chains worked in Rnd. 34, which are now being worked along the opposite side. No new chains are made in this round. Rnd. 36: 62 sc (62). Rnd. 37: 18 sc, 2 dec, 18 sc, [1 dec, 8 sc] x 2, 1 dec (57). Rnd. 38: [8 sc, 1 dec] x 3, 27 sc (54). Rnd. 39: 11 sc, [1 dec, 3 sc] x 3, 9 sc, [1 dec, 6 sc] x 2, 1 dec, 1 sc (48). Rnd. 40: 14 sc, 2 dec, 12 sc, [2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (42). Rnd. 41: 1 dec, 11 sc, 2 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (36). Rnd. 42: 1 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 2, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (30). Rnd. 43: 1 dec, 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec, [1 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (21). Rnd. 44: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 2, 2 dec, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 3, 1 dec (13). Rnd. 45: 1 dec, [1 sc, 2 dec] x 2, 1 sc (8). Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LEFT WING In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc (10). Rnd. 3: 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (12). Rnd. 4: 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 15 sc, 1 inc (17). Rnd. 7: 1 inc, 16 sc (18). Rnd. 8: 17 sc, 1 inc (19). Rnd. 9: 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc (21). Rnd. 10: 1 inc, 8 sc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 1 inc (23). Rnd. 11: 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (23). Flatten the wing opening so that the stitches line up. The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 12: working through both layers to close the opening, make 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 5 dc into the next st, 1 hdc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 slst (19). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. RIGHT WING In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc (10). Rnd. 3: 2 inc, 8 sc (12). Rnd. 4: 1 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 2 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 11 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (18). Rnd. 7: 18 sc (18). Rnd. 8: 12 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (20). Rnd. 9: 13 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (22). Rnd. 10: 3 sc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (24). Rnd. 11: 3 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc (23). Rnd. 12: work only 4 sc (4). Leave the remaining 19 st unworked. Flatten the wing opening so that the stitches line up. The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 13: working through both layers to close the opening, make 1 slst, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 hdc, 5 dc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc (19). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. BILL In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: starting into the second ch from the hook, make 1 inc, 1 sc, 3 sc in the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain and work 2 sc (8). Rnd. 2: 2 inc, 1 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (14). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS): 14 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 slst, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 slst (19). Invisible fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. The bill doesn’t need to be stuffed. LEGS (MAKE 2) The legs will be worked in three parts. PART 1 – SHANK In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 BLO-sc (6). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS): 6 sc (6). Rnd. 5: 6 BLO-sc (6). Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Stuff the leg with fiberfill. PART 2 - THIGH In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: pull up a loop into the first remaining front loop of Rnd. 5 of the shank (Part 1) and work [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Note: The remaining front loops correspond to the loops that were left unworked during Rnd. 5. Rnd. 2: 1 sc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc (13). Rnd. 3: work only 2 sc (2). Leave the remaining 11 st unworked. Invisible fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. PART 3 – WEBBED FOOT In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 sc (6). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 3 (12). Rnd. 5–6 (2 ROUNDS): 12 sc (12). Rnd. 7: work only 2 sc (2). Leave the remaining 10 st unworked. Flatten the webbed foot opening so that the stitches line up. The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 8: working through both layers to close the opening, make [*1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc*, 1 slst into the next st] x 3 (9). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the remaining yarn through the webbed foot, bringing it out between Rnd. 1 and 2, on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, where it will later be used for sewing. Using sewing pins, center Rnd. 1 of the shank (Part 1) over Rnd. 1 to 3 of the webbed foot (Part 3). The right side of the foot ruffle should face toward the shank. With a tapestry needle and using the remaining front loops of Rnd. 2 of the shank, sew it firmly in place. BONNET HAT In color Pink Pepper (Amigurumi Slim #7078) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. The bonnet hat will be worked in four parts. Note: Although the bonnet hat is crocheted with Amigurumi Slim yarn, to make the piece softer, use the same hook size used for the body. PART 1 – BASE Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 7 inc (14). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28). Rnd. 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 6: 35 sc (35). Rnd. 7: [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 7 (42). Rnd. 8–10 (3 ROUNDS): 42 sc (42). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 2 – HAT BRIM Ch 34. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: start in the second ch from the hook, 32 sc, 3 sc into the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, [2 hdc, 1 hdc-inc] x 10, 1 hdc, 1 inc (78). Rnd. 2: 1 inc, 31 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, [4 hdc, 1 hdc-inc] x 7, 4 hdc, 1 sc, 2 inc (91). Rnd. 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 31 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 2 sc, 45 hdc, 1 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (97). Work 1 sc to shift the end of the last round. Don’t fasten off. Now, we'll join the brim to the base of the hat. Position the brim (Part 2) around the base (Part 1), keeping the wrong side of the brim facing outward and the right side of the brim facing the right side of the base. Align the first st of Rnd. 10 of the base with the next free st of the brim. This will be the starting point for joining. When the two parts are overlapped, you will see four visible loops (two from the base and two from the brim). Working only through the outer loops of each part and always inserting the hook from the inside of the base toward the outside of the brim, join the pieces by working 35 sc. Don’t fasten off. Note: When inserting the hook, make sure you are picking up only the outer loops, and be careful not to skip stitches while joining. The remaining inner loops will not be worked and will be visible once the brim is turned out, creating the detail of the hat. The join will be located on the inside of the hat. With the base joined to the brim, turn the brim right side out. We will now work the finishing round around the entire edge of the hat. Rnd. 4: without turning the piece, return to the brim and 1 sc into the first free st after the join (this corresponds to the 37th st of Rnd. 3 of the brim). Place a stitch marker in this st (Marker A). Continue working [ch 2, 1 slst] x 60, then ch 2, 1 sc. Place a stitch marker in this last st (Marker B). Next, return to the base of the hat and work 7 slst to complete the round. Note: If your st are very loose and you prefer a firmer edge on the brim, work only ch 1 instead of ch 2 in the repeat sequence, or use a one-size smaller crochet hook while working around the brim. Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 3 – BOW Ch 22. Ensure the chain isn't twisted, then insert the hook into the first ch. Join the foundation chains with 1 slst to form a ring. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd. 1–2 (2 ROUNDS): [1 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 2 slst] x 2 (22). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 4 – BOW TIES AND LEGS Leaving approx. 4.72 in (12 cm) of yarn tail at the beginning, ch 13. Tie 1: starting in the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 12 slst, ch 11. Don’t fasten off. Leg 1: return to the fourth ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, ch 11. Don’t fasten off. Leg 2: return again to the fourth ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, ch 13. Don’t fasten off. Tie 2: return to the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 12 slst. Fasten off, leaving approx. 4.72 in (12 cm) of yarn tail for finishing. Note: At the end, you will have an X-shaped piece. The ties will be attached to the lower part of the bonnet, and the two legs will form the ends of the bow. BONNET HAT ASSEMBLY Position Part 4 inside the bow (Part 3), with the two upper ties facing upward and the two legs facing downward. To shape the bow, use the remaining yarn tails to wrap two tight turns around the center of the bow (Part 3), passing between the upper ties and the lower legs to create the bow shape. The wraps should embrace all parts together. Then, tie a knot on the wrong side of the bow, fasten off, and weave in the yarn end. To ensure better fixation of the knot, apply a small drop of glue to the wrong side of the bow. ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING TOUCHES Embroider the bill details Using a milliner needle and 4 strands of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider two French knots, with three wraps each, on the upper part of the beak (the area with two small waves), between Rnd. 5 and 6, leaving 5 st of distance between them. Sew the bill to the head Using sewing pins, center the bill on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, over Rnd. 9 and 12, covering 6 st in width. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. Gently shape the bill with your fingers so it curves slightly. Embroider the eyes and eyelashes Using a crewel needle and 1 strand of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider the eyes and eyelashes over Rnd. 8 and 9. Each eye should be approx. 4 st in width and just over 1 round in height, leaving 8 st of distance between them, and placed 1 st away from the bill. Sew the wings to the sides of the body Using sewing pins, position the wings on the sides of the body, slightly angled, between Rnd. 24 and 35, keeping the magic ring area facing upward and the ruffles facing downward. Keep a distance of 18 st, counted on Rnd. 32, between the wings across the belly area. The pointier parts of the wings, located in the ruffled section, should face toward the back. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly only the top and the rounded edge of the wing that faces the belly. The back edge of the wing may be left unsewn. Sew the legs to the body Using sewing pins, position the legs on both sides of the front part of the body, between Rnd. 35 and 38, leaving a distance of 11 st between them, counted on the front of the body on Rnd. 36. The webbed feet should be pointing upward, with the soles facing forward. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly in place. If necessary, add fiberfill to the leg before finishing the sewing.Note: Before sewing, check that the piece sits properly with the body and the heels touching the surface. Adjust the position of the legs, if necessary, to ensure balance. If you wish, apply blush to the cheeks. Stiffen the bow legs To keep the bow legs straight and firm, apply a small drop of fabric glue or fabric stiffener to the wrong side of the legs. Attach the bow ties to the bonnet hat This piece can easily be assembled inside out (with the wrong side of the bow facing outward once the hat is worn). To ensure correct positioning, it is recommended to place the bonnet on the Mama Duck’s head first and define the sewing points with the hat already positioned. Using a tapestry needle and a piece of Pink Pepper yarn (Amigurumi Slim #7078), attach the bow ties as follows: · The right tie (when the piece is viewed from the front) should be sewn immediately next to the last sc of Rnd. 4 of the brim, where Marker B was placed, right at the corner formed by the join between the brim and the base. Place the bonnet on the head and then proceed to sew the left tie. · The left tie should be sewn on the opposite side of the bonnet, immediately next to the first sc worked along Rnd. 4 of the brim, where Marker A was placed, right at the corner formed by the join between the brim and the base. Note: The bonnet hat is not intended to be removable, although it can be placed on and taken off the head. THE MAMA DUCK IS READY! BABY DUCK HEAD AND BODY In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. We will start with the head. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 inc (12). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 6 (24). Rnd. 5–8 (4 ROUNDS): 24 sc (24). Rnd. 9: [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 10: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12). Stuff the head with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you go. From this point on, we'll start the body. Rnd. 11: ch 6. Working back into the foundation chains, starting into the second ch from the hook, make 5 sc. Continue around the body with [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6. On the other side of the foundation chains work 4 sc, 1 inc into the last st (29 - ch don’t count toward the stitch total). Rnd. 12: 1 inc, 4 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 6, 4 sc, 2 inc (38). Rnd. 13: 38 sc (38). Rnd. 14: 1 dec, 34 sc, 1 dec (36). Rnd. 15: 6 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 6, 4 sc, 1 dec (29). Rnd. 16: 1 dec, 25 sc, 1 dec (27). Rnd. 17: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4, 1 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4, 1 dec (18). Rnd. 18: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 3, [1 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (12). Rnd. 19: 6 dec (6). Note: If, while working Rnd. 19, you notice that the base is becoming pointy, work only 5 dec in this round and then fasten off. Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. WINGS (MAKE 2) In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: start in the third ch from the hook with 1 dc, 1 hdc, into the last st work 1 hdc, 1 dc,1 mini picot, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, 1 hdc, 1 dc (8 – mini picot doesn’t count toward the stitch total). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, make a false st by passing the needle through the first st of the Rnd. 1 and then inserting it back into the center of the same st where you came from. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing. BILL In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2: 5 inc (10). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 5 (15). Invisible fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Using your fingers, gently shape the bill into a cone shape. LEGS (MAKE 2) The legs will be worked in two parts. PART 1 – THIGH In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Tighten the magic ring as usual. To create the button-like effect on the thigh, fold the piece in half, keeping the wrong side facing inward. Using a tapestry needle, work a false stitch by passing the needle through the first st worked and then inserting it back into the center of the same st where you came from. Gently tighten the loop. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing. PART 2 - WEBBED FOOT In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Rnd. 1: starting in the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc (3). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the remaining yarn ends through the magic ring of the thigh (Part 1) and secure them firmly in place. ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING TOUCHES Sew the bill to the head Using sewing pins, center the bill on the head, on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, over Rnd. 4 and 7. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. If necessary, stuff the bill with fiberfill before closing the seam. Embroider the eyes Using a crewel needle and 1 strand of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider the eyes over Rnd. 5. Each eye should be approx. 2 st in width, leaving 2 st of distance from the bill. Sew the wings to the sides of the body Using sewing pins, position the wings on the sides of the body, slightly angled, between Rnd. 13 and 16, with the rounded edge facing forward and the pointed edge facing backward. Keep a distance of 12 st between the wings, counted on Rnd. 14, across the belly area. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly only the rounded edge of the wing. Sew the legs to the body Using sewing pins, position the legs on both sides of the lower part of the body, between Rnd. 17 and 18, leaving approx. 2 visible st between them, counted on Rnd. 18. The webbed feet should face forward. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly in place. Note: Before sewing, check that the piece stands upright, with the back of the body and the feet touching the surface. Adjust the position of the legs, if necessary, to ensure balance. Stiffen the webbed feet To keep the feet straight and firm, apply a small drop of fabric glue or fabric stiffener to the wrong side of the feet (soles). If you wish, apply blush to the cheeks. THE BABY DUCK IS READY! Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

claps 1 mini heart shaped button 6mm Stitch markers, pins Tapestry needle and scissors Created by: LovLoops

Created by: LovLoops Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters

Designer: LovLoops   Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters

Created by: LovLoops Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters

@lovloops     Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches