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⬆️ Click on the photo and journey to Ravelry's website, where you can seamlessly purchase the pattern and bring your crafting dreams to life. Size: XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL) By: Esmeralda Garcia Disclaimer : Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

08/13/2024 Level of difficulty MATERIALS 1 ball of Amigurumi in the colors: 7564 (Porcelain), 8990 (Black) e 3148 (Macadamia); Safety eyes (8 mm) – color black; Polyfill; Crochet hook - 2.5 mm; Split key ring.   EXECUTION Stitches used: Increase = inc; Triple increase = Tinc; Chain = ch; Decrease = dec; Double crochet = DC; Single crochet = SC.   Estimated size: Height- 10 cm, Diameter- 22 cm   Execution:   Head   Using the color 7564   1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring;   2nd rnd: 6 inc. = 12 SC;   3rd to 5th rnds (3 rounds): 12 SC;   6th rnd: 4 SC, 3 inc., 5 SC = 15 SC;   7th rnd: 4 SC, 6 inc., 5 SC = 21 SC;   8th rnd: 21 SC;   9th rnd: 3 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc.) 7x, 4 SC = 28 SC;   10th rnd: 28 SC;   11th rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc. = 42 SC;   12th to 19th rnds (8 rounds): 42 SC;   20th rnd: 5 SC, 1 dec. = 36 SC.   Attach the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, 7 sts apart (count each increase as a separate stitch).   21st rnd: 4 SC, 1 dec. = 30 SC.   Stuff it with polyfill.   22nd rnd: 3 SC, 1 dec. = 24 SC.   Finish stuffing with polyfill.   23rd rnd: 2 SC, 1 dec. = 18 SC;   24th rnd: 1 SC, 1 dec. = 12 SC.   Fasten-off with a reverse magic ring.   Snout   Using the color 8990   1st rnd (in a magic ring): ch 2, 3 DC, ch 2.   Close the magic ring.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming. Seam the snout between rounds 1 and 3 of the head.   Embroider the mouth with the color 8990. Eyebrows (2)   Using the color 7564   Ch 6.   1st row: skip 1 ch, 5 SC;   2nd row: 1 inc., 3 SC, 1 inc. = 7 SC.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming.   Seam the eyebrows to the head, above the eyes.   Ears – outer part (2)   With the color 7564   Ch 11 and work flat, ch. 1 at the beginning of each row (doesn’t count as a stitch).   1st row: skip 1 ch, 10 SC;   2nd row: 10 SC;   3rd row: 1 dec., 6 SC, 1 dec. = 8 SC;   4th row: 8 SC;   5th row: 1 dec., 4 SC, 1 dec. = 6 SC;   6th row: 6 SC;   7th row: 1 dec., 2 SC, 1 dec. = 4 SC;   8th row: 4 SC;   9th row: 1 dec., 2 SC = 3 SC;   10th row: 3 SC;   11th row: 1 dec., 1 SC = 2 SC;   12th row: 1 dec. = 1 SC.   Contour the piece with SCs, making Tinc. at the edges.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming.   Ears – inner part (2)   With the color 3148   Ch 7 and work flat, ch. 1 at the beginning of each row (doesn’t count as a stitch).   1st row: skip 1 ch, 6 SC;   2nd row: 6 SC;   3rd row: 1 dec., 2 SC, 1 dec. = 4 SC;   4th row: 4 SC;   5th row: 1 dec., 2 SC = 3 SC;   6th row: 3 SC;   7th row: 1 dec, 1 SC = 2 SC;   8th row: 1 dec. = 1 SC.   Contour the piece with SCs, making Tinc. at the edges.   Fasten-off.   Seam or glue it to the outer part of the ear.   Seam the ears on rows 15 and 16 of the head. Blush the cheeks with some make-up. Attach the split key ring to the 1st row of the head.   Designer: Maria Fantoni   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

11/03/2023 Level of difficulty: Challenging *** Size: 11.5” Material Circulo Yarns - Amigurumi 1 ball in each color #4456 orange, #7030 mustard, #7563 chantilly, and #7220 dates white, black and dark brown scraps Crochet hook C Black safety eyes 8 mm Cardboard or plastic sheet Polyester stuffing Yarn needle & scissors Created by: Suely Beggiato Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

MATERIALS 1 ball of the yarn Amigurumi – Colors: 8001 (White) and 1112 (Cream); Maxi Mouline – Color: Maxi Mouline 900 (Black); Circular knitting needles – 3.5 mm with an 80 cm or longer cable; Polyfill; Safety eyes (8 mm) – Black; Tapestry needle; Locking stitch markers. Level of difficulty 07/09/2024 EXECUTION Stitches used: Knit stitch = k; Knit 2 stitches together = k2tog; Left leaning decrease- slip 2 stitches knitwise, slip them back to the left needle and k them together through the back loop = SSK; Knit through front and back loop of the same stitch, making an increase = KFB; Make 1 left (pick the bar between 2 stitches, from front to back, then k the bar through the back loop) = M1L; Make 1 right (pick the bar between 2 stitches, from back to front, then k the bar as usual) = M1R; Round (knit in the round, using the magic loop technique) = rnd; Magic ring knitting cast-on – create each stitch on the magic ring with a crochet hook by passing the hook under the ring, making a yarn over, pulling it up and placing it on the knitting needle; Provisional cast-on with two needles – hold two needles in parallel. Hold the yarn with your thumb and index fingers, as if you were to do a long tail cast-on. Loop the yarn from the thumb over the top/back needle, from back to front; then loop the yarn from the index finger over the bottom/front needle, from back to front. Repeat these two steps between as many times as needed to achieve the indicated number of stitches. Before you start: Read the entire pattern before starting your work. Separate all materials needed. Before stuffing the piece, slip all stitches to the needle cable. Estimated size: 17 cm. Execution: Legs (2) Start with the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before casting-on the stitches. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don’t close the magic ring. Assemble the magic loop, leaving half the stitches on each needle. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (k 1, m1r) 6x = 12 sts; 3rd rnd: k 12; 4th rnd: k 5, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 5 = 14 sts; 5th rnd: k 14; 6th rnd: k 6, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 6 = 16 sts; 7th rnd: k 16; 8th rnd: k 7, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 7 = 18 sts; 9th rnd: k 18; 10th rnd: k 8, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 8 = 20 sts; 11th rnd: k 20; 12th rnd: k 9, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 9 = 22 sts; 13th rnd: k 22. Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn, with the help of a tapestry needle. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail for seaming. Leave the piece on hold. Knit a second identical leg. Cut the yarn and keep the stitches on the needles. Body With the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) 1st rnd: k 11 on the leg that remained on the needles. Place the first  11 sts from the first leg (on hold) back on the left needle in a way that the increases face the inner side of the body. K those 11 stitches, then place on the needles the remaining 11 sts from the first leg; that way, the magic loop is already assembled. K the 22 sts that are on the second part of the magic loop = 44 sts in total; 2nd rnd: k 10, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 20, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 10 = 48 sts; 3rd rnd: k 1, m1r, k 22, m1l, k 2, m1r, k 22, m1l, k 1 = 52 sts; 4th rnd: k 11, m1r, k 4, m1l, k 22, m1r, k 4, m1l, k 11 = 56 sts; 5th rnd: k 1, m1r, k 26, m1l, k 2, m1r, k 26, m1l, k 1 = 60 sts; 6th to 20th rnds (15 rounds): 60 sts. Stuff the legs with polyfill. Seam shut the tiny hole left between the legs. 21st rnd: k2tog twice, k 22, 2 ssk, (k2tog) 2x, k 22, 2 ssk = 52 sts; 22nd rnd: k 52; 23rd rnd: k2tog, k 22, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 22, 1 ssk = 48 sts; 24th rnd: k 48; 25th rnd: k2tog, k 20, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 20, 1 ssk = 44 sts; 26th rnd: k 44; 27th rnd: k2tog, k 18, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 18, 1 ssk = 40 sts; 28th rnd: k 40; 29th rnd: k2tog, k 16, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 16, 1 ssk = 36 sts; 30th rnd: k 36. Head Continue with the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (white) Continue from the body. 1st rnd: (k 2, m1r) 18x = 54 sts; 2nd to 22nd rnd (21 rounds): 54 sts. Attach the safety eyes on the 12th round, specifically on stitches 9 and 17 (7 stitches apart). Stuff with polyfill until the neck. 23rd rnd: (k 1, k2tog) 18x = 36 sts; 24th rnd: k 36; 25th rnd: (k 1, k2tog) 12x = 24 sts; 26th rnd: k 24. Stuff the head with polyfill. 27th rnd: (k2tog) 12x = 12 sts; 28th rnd: k 12. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for seaming. Stuff the rest with polyfill. With the help of a tapestry needle, pass the yarn through all 12 stitches. Pull the yarn to close the opening and make a knot. Embroider the eyelashes and eyebrows with Maxi Mouline 900 (Black). Slip a piece of the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) through all sts from the 1st rnd, starting at the nape; pull the yarn to shape the neck and make a tight knot. Cut the excess yarn and hide the ends inside the duckling. Wings (2) With the Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before starting. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don't close the magic ring. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (k 1, m1r) 6x = 12 sts; 3rd rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 4th rnd: (kfb, k 4, kfb) 2x = 16 sts; 5th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 6th rnd: (kfb, k 6, kfb) 2x = 20 sts; 7th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) repeat the instructions between 4 more times, k 8 = 20 sts; 8th rnd: (kfb, k 8, kfb) 2 x = 24 sts; 9th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 5 more times, k 8 = 24 sts; 10th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 6, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 20 sts; 11th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 4 more times, k 8 = 20 sts; 12th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 4, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 16 sts; 13th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) , repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 14th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 2, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 12 sts; 15th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 16th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 8 sts; 17th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) , repeat the instructions between 1 more time, k 6 = 8 sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. With the help of a tapestry needle, pass the yarn through the 8 stitches. Pull the yarn to close the opening and make a knot. Pull the magic ring tail tightly and make a knot. Make an identical second wing. Tail With the Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before starting. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don't close the magic ring. Assemble the magic loop, leaving half the stitches on each needle. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: k 1, kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), k 3 = 6 sts; 3rd rnd: 6 kfb = 12 sts; 4th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog(with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 5th rnd: (kfb, k 4, kfb) 2x = 16 sts; 6th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 7th rnd: (k2tog) 8x = 8 sts. Bind-off all sts knitwise Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for seaming. Pull the magic ring tail tightly and make a knot. Seam the tail on the 6th round of the body, centered on the back. Beak With the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Cast-on 6 stitches, using the provisional cast-on with two needles. That way, the magic loop is already assembled. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (kfb, k 1, kfb) 2x = 10 sts; 3rd rnd: k 10; 4th rnd: (kfb, k 3, kfb) 2x = 14 sts; 5th and 6th rnds: k 14; Bind-off all sts knitwise. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Seam the beak on rounds 6 and 7 of the head, between the 10th and 16th stitches. Designer: Suely Beggiato Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Aloe Vera by Circulo - 3113 Peach Pink and 8001 White US J10/6.00mm crochet hook Scissors Yarn needle Fabric for lining Level of difficulty 07/31/2024 Measurements Square after blocking: 6 ¾” Overall bag when finished: 13.5” x 13.5” (not including strap) Abbreviations Ch - chain St - stitch Sc - single crochet Hdc - half double crochet Dc - double crochet Sl st - slip stitch V-st - (dc, ch 2, dc) Granny Square Instructions - Make 8 With white, make a magic circle Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a st), 2 dc into the magic circle, (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into the magic circle, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Cut yarn. Round 2: With pink, join yarn in the middle st of the 3-dc block, ch 5 (count as 1 dc and ch 2), 1 dc in the same st, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in the ch-3 sp, V-st in the middle st of the 3 dc block; repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch 5. Cut yarn. Round 3: With white, join yarn in the corner ch-2 sp, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, (3 dc in the next ch-2 sp) 3 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Cut yarn. Round 4: With pink, join yarn in the corner ch-2 sp, (ch 5, dc, ch 2, V-st) in the same st, (V-st in between each of the spaces between the double crochet block segments across, repeat until you reach the next corner st, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in the corner sp, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5. Cut yarn. Round 5: With white, join yarn at the corner ch-2 sp, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp and each ch-2 sp across until you reach the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the beginning ch 3. Assembly You are going to start attaching the squares together so you have 4 squares on one side of the bag and 4 squares on the other. You will also whip stitch along all of the edges leaving the opening at the top. Strap (make as short or as long as you want. I made mine fairly long) With pink - ch 90 Row 1: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 3, turn. Row 2: 1 dc in the first st and each st across. Finish off, weave in ends. Place the strap in desired position on each side of the bag and sew in place. Now you are going to add a border of sc along each side of the bag and all along the strap. So attach your pink yarn in any stitch and ch 1, then sc evenly around. Repeat on other side. Doing this provides a more finished look and also keep the strap from stretching out too much. Add lining if desired. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

08/15/2024 Level of difficulty MATERIALS 1 ball of the yarn Amigurumi – Color: 4456 (Orange); 2 beads (6 mm) – Black; Crochet hook - 3.0 mm; Tapestry needle; Polyfill; Locking stitch markers. Stitches used: Increase = inc; chain = ch; decrease = dec; half double crochet = HDC; double crochet = DC; slip stitch = slst; single crochet = SC; extended double crochet = extended DC. Repeat instructions between ** until end of the round. Estimated size: 26 cm Execution: Body Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 4 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 4 inc = 8 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 12 SC; 4th rnd: 2 SC, 1 inc = 16 SC; 5th rnd: 3 SC, 1 inc = 20 SC; 6th rnd: 4 SC, 1 inc = 24 SC; 7th rnd: 5 SC, 1 inc = 28 SC; 8th rnd: 6 SC, 1 inc = 32 SC; 9th rnd: 7 SC, 1 inc = 36 SC; 10th rnd: 36 SC; 11th rnd: 8 SC, 1 inc = 40 SC; 12th rnd: 9 SC, 1 inc = 44 SC; 13th to 28th rnds (16 rounds): 44 SC; 29th rnd: 9 SC, 1 dec = 40 SC; 30th to 32nd rnds (3 rounds): 40 SC Stuff with polyfill. 33rd rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 34th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 35th to 37th rnds (3 rounds): 40 SC; 38th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 39th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 40th and 41st rnds: 40 SC; 42nd rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 43rd rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 44th and 45th rnds: 40 SC; 46th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC Stuff with more polyfill. 47th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 48th and 49th rnds: 40 SC; 50th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 51st rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 52nd and 53rd rnds: 40 SC; 54th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 55th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC Fasten-off. Make the tail: 56th rnd: ch 7, (TURN), skip 1 ch, 6 SC, 1 dec (with the first st of the chain and the next one, on the body), 19 SC, ch 7, (TURN), skip 1 ch, 6 SC, 1 dec (with the first st of the chain and the next one, on the body)), 19 SC = 64 stitches (not counting the skipped chs); 57th rnd: 6 SC on the other side of the ch, 26 SC, 6 SC on the other side of the ch, 26 SC = 64 SC; 58th rnd: 64 SC; 59th to 62nd rnds (4 rounds): 64 SC; 63rd rnd: 1 SC, (1 SC, 1 HDC, 1 DC, 2 extended DC, 1 DC, 1 HDC, 1 SC) 7x, 1 SC, 1 HDC, 1 DC, 2 extended DC, 1 DC, 1 HDC. Stuff the tail with polyfill once you finish the entire round. Close it with a slst, joining both sides and flattening the tail. Medium legs (6) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 6 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 9 SC; 4th to 10th rnds (7 rounds): 9 SC; 11th rnd: 1 dec, 7 SC = 8 SC; 12th rnd: 1 dec, 6 SC = 7 SC. Stuff the bottom with polyfill. 13th rnd: 1 dec, 5 SC = 6 SC; 14th to 23rd rnds (10 rounds): 6 SCStuff the rest with polyfill. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Small legs (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd to 19th rnds (18 rounds): 6 SC Stuff with polyfill. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Claws (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 6 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 9 SC; 5th rnd: 9 SC; Fasten-off. Make a second identical piece and don’t fasten-off. In the next rnd join both pieces to create the pincer. 6th rnd: 9 SC in the 2nd piece and 9 SC in the 1st piece = 18 SC; 7th rnd: 2 SC, 1 inc = 24 SC; 8th to 11th rnds (4 rounds): 24 SC; 12th rnd: 6 SC, 1 dec = 21 SC; 13th rnd: 21 SC; 14th rnd: 5 SC, 1 dec = 18 SC; 15th rnd: 18 SC; 16th rnd: 4 SC, 1 dec = 15 SC; 17th rnd: 15 SC; 18th rnd: 3 SC, 1 dec = 12 SC; 19th rnd: 12 SC; 20th rnd: 2 SC, 1 dec = 9 SC; Stuff with polyfill. 21st and 22nd rnds: 9 SC; 23rd rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 24th rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 25th rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 26th to 35th rnds (10 rounds): 9 SC; Stuff with polyfill. 36th rnd: 1 SC, 1 dec = 6 SC Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Antennae (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) Ch 22, skip 1 ch (TURN). Only row: 2 SC, 19 slst = 21 stitches. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Seam between rnds 3 and 4 of the body. Assembling: attach the beads between rnds 11 and 12, approximately 10 sts apart. Seam to each side of the body: 1 claw, 3 medium legs and 1 small leg between rnds 17 and 32. Designer: Ana Paula Mitie Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Material 2 rolls of Natural Macrame Cotton yarn Color: 20 (Natural) 1 pair of bag handles Size: 30 cm (width) X 26 cm (height) - Approximately 12 inches X 10 inches Level of difficulty Transfer measurement chart to paper to guide you along. Arrows indicate direction. Knots: Square knot, double half hitch knot. Execution Cut 56 cords of 2.80 m (9 feet) each. Hang 24 cords 1 by 1, folded in half on each bag handle. Put the extra cords on the side. Work 1 row of square knots; on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th row, add 1 of the cords that you put aside, on each side and work normally with square knots. Make the other handle the same. From the 6th row, join the 2 handles and work the circular piece following the graphic. To close the base, turn it inside out, make 1 more row of square knots joining the front and back knots, overhand knot the cords and cut or trim the extras. Created by: Samara Varella Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 1 skein of Amigurumi – colors: 1730 (Candy yellow), 4146 (Yolk), 7625 (Chestnut) e 8001 (White); Knitting circular needles – 3,5 mm with an 80 cm or more cable; Stuffing; Safety eyes (8 mm) – black; Tapestry needle; Scissors; Maxi Mouline thread– color: black. Level of difficulty 07/25/2024                       Stitches used:   Purl stitch  = p; Knit stitch = k; Knit 2 stitches together  = k2tog; Purl 2 stitches together  = p2tog; Yarn over  = yo. Round  (knit in the round using the magic loop technique) One increase on the same stitch  ( knit one stitch through the front loop and, without dropping the st, knit again through the back loop ) = kfb Left leaning increase  (insert the needle from front to back, under the bar between the stitches, and k this bar as normal)  = m1l Right leaning increase  ( (insert the needle from back to front, under the bar between the stitches, and k this bar through the back loop) = m1r Left leaning decrease  (slip the first st knitwise, the second purlwise, place them back on the left needle and knit both together) = ssk. Bind-off  (knit the first 2 sts in pattern (k or p), lift the first st over the second and drop it, decreasing by one. Repeat until you have 1 st left at the end of the row. Vikkel braid  (Estonian or lateral braid) (Slip the stitches to the cable of the knitting needle, insert a crochet hook between the first 2 stitches, yo, bring it to the front and pull it through the stitch on the hook, repeat until the end of the row. Slip the sts back to the knitting needle and place the stitch on the hook on the right hand needle, then slip the last knitting stitch over the braid one. Magic circle knitting cast-on-  make a magic circle; with a crochet hook, yo, pull it through the magic circle and place it on the knitting needle. Invisible seam  (insert the yarn through the tapestry needle and divide the stitches equally on both needles. Insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Insert the needle on the first st from the front  needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Repeat until the end: insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and drop the stitch; then insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Insert the needle on the first st from the front needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and drop the stitch; insert the needle on the first st from the front needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch). Bind-off with the tapestry needle  (insert the needle purlwise through first 2 sts, draw yarn, insert between both sts through the front, drop first stitch. Repeat until the end.)   Abbreviations : WS : wrong side, RS : right side. Estimated size:  21,5 cm.     Execution   Head With the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut): Cast-on 6 sts on the needles using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k6; Rnd 2: kfb 6 times= 12 sts; Rnd 3: k12; Rnd 4: k1, m1r, (k2, m1r) 5x, k1 = 18 stitches; Rnd 5: k18; Rnd 6: k1, m1r, (k3, m1r) 5x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 7: k24; Rnd 8: k1, m1r, (k4, m1r) 5x, k3 = 30 sts; Rnd 9: k30.; Rnd 10: k1, m1r, (k5, m1r) 5x, k4 = 36 sts; Rnd 11: k36.; Rnd 12: k1, m1r, (k6, m1r) 5x, k5 = 42 sts; Rnd 13: k42.; Rnd 14: k1, m1r, (k7, m1r) 5x, k6 = 48 sts; Rnds 15 to 28 (14 rounds): k48; Mark the middle of the head. Attach the safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, with 8 sts between them. Rnd 29: k2, k2tog around = 36 sts; Rnd 30: k36; Rnd 31: k2tog around = 18 sts; Rnds 32 to 34 (3 rounds): k18.Stuff the plushie until the level of the eyes. Cut the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail.   Body Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 1730 (Candy yellow) . Work from the head down. Rnd 1: k18; Knit one round with a Vikkel braid. Rnd 2: k18; Rnd 3: k1, m1r, (k3, m1r) 5x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 4: k24; Rnd 5: (k1, m1r) 2x, k8, m1r, k1, m1r, k2, m1r, k1, m1r, k8, (m1r, k1, m1r) 2x = 32 sts; Rnd 6.: k32; Rnd 7: k2, m1r, k1, m1r, k10, m1r, k1, m1r, k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k10, m1r, k1, m1r, k2 = 40; Rnd 8.: k40; Rnd 9: k3, m1r, k1, m1r, k12, m1r, k1, m1r, k6, m1r, k1, m1r, k12, m1r, k1, m1r, k3 = 48 sts; Rnd 10: k48; Rnd 11: k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k14, m1r, k1, m1r, k8, m1r, k1, m1r, k14, m1r, k1, m1r, k4 = 56 sts; Rnd 12: k51, slip the remaining 5 sts to a piece of scrap yarn with the help of a tapestry needle. Rnd 13: slip 6 sts to the right hand needle, k18, slip 10 sts to a scrap yarn with the tapestry needle, k18 (there are 48 sts left on the needle and 10 sts on the pieces of scrap yarn, on both sides, to knit the sleeves). So the beginning/end of the next rounds look the same on the side of the body, don’t knit the last 3 stitches and slip all sts back to the needle cable. Next, divide the stitches so there are 24 of them on each needle = 48 sts; Ends 14 to 34 (21 rounds): k48. Cut the yarn, leaving a 40 cm tail. Stuff the body. Put all sts on the needle cable Sew the first 8 stitches on each side of the needle, going through the stitches from the round below. Make a knot. Slip the stitches to a scrap yarn. Put the sts back on the needles; there are 16 sts left on each side of the needle. Sew the next 8 sts from each side of the needle with an invisible seam. Again, put all sts on the needle cable and sew the first 8 stitches on each side of the needle, going through the stitches from the round below. Make a knot. Secure the yarn to the first st on the needle and go back to knitting in the round to create the first leg.   Legs (2) Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut). Rnds 1 to 18 (18 rounds): k16. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) .Rnds 19 to 22 (4 rounds): k16 Rnd 23: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 24: k8. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot. Place the 16 sts on the scrap yarn back on the needle and knit the second leg just like the first.   Arms (2) With the yarn Amigurumi 1730 (Candy yellow): Attach the yarn to the 1st st from the 13th round of the body, after the sts on the scrap yarn. Pick up and knit 10 stitches on the underarm, on the stitches from the 13th row and 2 on each side, on the body. Return the sts on the scrap yarn to the needles, so you have 20 sts on the needles with the magic loop. Rnds 1 and 2: k20; Rnds 3 to 6 (4 ends): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x; Bind-off the sts with the tapestry needle. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut) . Pick up and knit the stitches inside the sleeve on the 2nd row, with a rate of 4 of every 5 stitches. Rnds 7 to 18 (12 rounds): k16. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) . Rnds 19 to 22 (4 rounds): k16; Rnd 23: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 24: k8. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot.   Ears(2) With the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut): Leave a 30 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 10 stitches on the needle. Make a magic loop. Rnd 1: k10; Rnd 2: kfb 10x = 20 sts; Rnd 3: k20; Rnd 4: k1, m1r, k8, m1r, k2, m1r, k8, m1r, k1 = 24 sts; Rnds 5 to 16 (12 rounds): k24. In the next rounds, work in jacquard, changing the yarn to Amigurimi 8001 (White)  according to the bold sections. Rnd 17: k11, k2 , k11 = 24 sts; Rnd 18: k10, k4 , k10 = 24 sts;Rnd 19: k9, k6 , k9 = 24 sts; Rnd 20: k8, k8 , k8, 24 sts; Rnd 21: k6, k12 , k6 = 24 sts; Rnd 22: k3, k18 , k3 = 24 sts; Rnd 23: k1, k22 , k1 = 24 sts. Cut the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut), continue with only Amigurumi 8001 (White). Rnds 24 to 27 (4 rounds): k24; Rnd 28: k1, k2tog around = 16 sts; Rnd 29: k16; Rnd 30: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 31: k8. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot Fold the ear and sew it into the puppy’s head using the tail from the cast-on.   Tail With the yarn amigurumi 8001 (White) Cast-on 8 sts using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k8; Rnd 2: kfb 8x = 16 sts; Rnd 3: k16; Rnd 4: k2, m1r, (k4, m1r) 3x, k2 = 20 sts; Rnd 5: k20. Now, work a few short rows. Continue with the magic loop. Rnd 6 (RS): k19, turn; Rnd 7 (WS): yo, p18, turn; Rnd 8 (RS): k17, turn; Rnd 9 (WS): yo, p16, turn; Rnd 10 (RS): k15, turn; Rnd 11 (WS): yo, p14, turn; Rnd 12 (RS): k13, turn; Rnd 13 (WS): yo, p12, turn; Rnd 14 (RS): k11, turn; Rnd 15 (WS): yo, p10, turn; Rnd 16 (RS): k9, turn. The next row will be the last one with short rows. Rnd 17 (WS): yo, p9, p2tog (the first st being the yo from the previous row, through the back loop) 5x, turn; Rnd 18 (RS): k14, k2tog (the first st being the yo from the previous row) 6x. Go back to knitting in rounds. Rnd 19: k20; Rnd 20: k1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1 = 18 sts; Rnd 21: k1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k1 = 16 sts. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut). Cut the Amigurumi 8001 (white). Rnd 22: k1, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k1 = 14 sts; Rnd 23: k1, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k1 = 12 sts; Stuff the puppy until the last short row. Rnds 24 to 31 (8 rounds): k12; Bind-off knitwise, leaving a 30 cm tail. Stuff the rest of the plushie. Sew the tail on the body with the tapestry needle, between the legs and 2cm above them.   Snout With the yarn amigurumi 8001 (White) Leave a 20 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 8 sts using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k8; Rnd 2: k1, m1r = 12 sts; Rnd 3: k12; Rnd 4: k2, m1r, k1, m1r, (k3, m1r, k1 twisted, m1r) 2x, k1 = 18 sts; Rnd 5: k9, k1 twisted, k5, k1 twisted, k2 = 18 sts; Rnd 6: k3, m1r, k1, m1r, (k5, m1r, k1 twisted, m1r) 2x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 7: k12, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, k3 = 24 sts; Rnd 8: k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k7, m1r, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, m1r, k3 = 28 sts; Rnds 9 to 11 (3 rounds): k15, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, k4 = 28 sts; Rnd 12: k15, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, bind-off 3 sts knitwise (the st left on the needle will be bound off in the next round) = 18 sts; Rnd 13: starting with the st left from the previous row, bind-off 16 sts, k8 = 9 sts; Now work flat. Rnd 14: p2tog, p7 = 8 sts; Rnd 15: ssk, k6 = 7 sts; Rnd 16: p2tog, p5 = 6 sts; Rnd 17: ssk, k4 = 5 sts; Rnd 18: p2tog, p3 = 4 sts; Rnd 19: ssk, k2 = 3 sts; Rnd 20: p2tog, p1 = 2 sts; Rnd 21: bind-off the last 2 sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a 50 cm tail. Close the magic circle cast-on by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot. Hide the yarn tails inside the snout. Start seaming it on the head by the last 2 BO stitches from row 21; seam them to row 9 of the head. Mark the middle of the head between the eyes and attach the last sts from the snout to row 9 of the head. After you seam the triangle created on the top of the snout, sew the sts from row 13 to row 23 of the head. Then, stuff the rest of the snout and seam it to the head. Embroider the nose and mouth with the thread Maxi Mouline in black . Embroider the eyebrows and the eye  details with the thread Maxi Mouline in black.     Shorts With the yarn Amigurumi 4146 (Yolk): Leave a 20 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 21 sts on the needles. Work flat. Rows 1, 3 and 5 (WS): (p1 twisted, k1) 10x, p1 twisted = 21 sts; Rows 2 and 4 (RS): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x, k1 twisted = 21 sts; Row 6 (RS): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x, k1 twisted = 21 sts Rows 7 to 10 (4 rows): p on the WS, k on the RS = 21 sts; Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Keep the stitches on the needle cable. Make a second leg, without cutting the yarn, and bring the sts from the first leg back to the needle. Now knit both legs together. Row 11 (RS): k42; Row 12 (WS): p42; Row 13 (RS): k2, m1r, k18, m1r, k2, m1r, k18, m1r, k2 = 46 sts; Row 14 (WS): p46; Row 15 (RS): k2, m1r, k20, m1r, k2, m1r, k20, m1r, k2 = 50 sts; Row 16 (WS): p50; Row 17 (RS): k2, m1r, k22, m1r, k2, m1r, k22, m1r, k2 = 52 sts; Rows 18 to 26 (o rows): p on the WS< k on the RS = 52 sts; Rows 27, 29 and 31 (RS): k1 twisted, p1 = 52 sts; Rows 28, 30 and 32 (WS): k1, p1 twisted = 52 sts. Bind-off all stitches knitwise. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Sew the legs until the 9th row. With the leftover yarn from the first leg, sew until the 18th row. With the leftover yarn from the bind-off, sew until the 27th row, from top down. There should be a small hole for the tail to go through the shorts when dressing the puppy.   Designer : Suely Beggiato   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Nautico 5 mm (500 g), 1 spool in the color 6185 (pink); Circulo 5.5 mm crochet hook; Beige bag base with a 33 cm long zipper and (6 x 13 cm) 21 holes on each side; scissors; Circulo tapestry needle; measuring tape.      Measurements: 14 cm x 22 cm Level of difficulty 07/24/2024                      Crochet stitches used: ch: chain,  slst: slip stitch,  SC: single crochet, fpsc: front post single crochet, DC: double crochet,  fpdc: front post double crochet, stitch pattern: follow chart 1. Abbreviations: st: stitch,  sts:  stitches,  FO: fasten off. Gauge: 10 x 10 cm square in established stitch pattern (chart 1), with 5.5 mm crochet hook = 11 sts x 7 rows. Execution- Bag:  Use the yarn Nautico and a 5.5 mm crochet hook. Work in the round, from top to bottom and making the front and back at the same time following the established st pattern (chart 1). Work the 1st row by making 1 SC on each hole at the base (21 on each side) and ch 3 for each side. Follow chart 1 for rows 2 to 10. FO, leaving a 40 cm tail. Thread the yarn onto the tapestry needle and close the bottom of the bag with basting stitches. Designer : Neddy Ghusmann   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

07/09/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate size: 21 cm (8.27″). Materials 1 ball of Amigurumi – Colors: 3148 (Macadamia), 8001 (White), 3611 (Rubi), 2829 (Ball Blue), 7567 (Cocoa), and 4448 (Clay); Amigurumi yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); Cléa yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); Anne yarn leftovers – Color: 8001 (White); Crochet hook – 2.5 mm; Tapestry needle; Amigurumi eyes (8 mm) – Color: Brown; Fiberfill for stuffing; Lock Stitch Marker. Stitches used: Increase = inc.; Chain Stitch = ch.; Decrease = dec.; Half Double Crochet = hdc.; Single Crochet = sc. Instructions Body: Start with Amigurumi 8001 (White) yarn: Start from the feet; Make 6 ch.; Rnd. 1: skip 1 ch., 1 inc., 3 sc., 4 sc. together in the last ch., on the other side of the ch.: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 2: 2 inc., 3 sc., 4 inc., 3 sc., 2 inc. = 22 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 3: 22 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnd. 4: 8 sc., 4 dec., 6 sc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 5: 6 sc., 4 dec., 4 sc. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 4 dec., 2 sc. = 10 sc.; Rnd. 7: 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn; Rnds. 8 to 13 (6 rounds): 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 14: 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn; Rnd. 15: 10 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnds. 16 to 20 (5 rounds): 10 sc.; Fasten off the first leg; Make the second leg and do not cut the yarn; In the next rnd., join the legs; Make 2 more sc. to reach the side of the 2nd leg and 2 ch. to join both legs; Rnd. 21: 10 sc. in the 1st leg, 2 sc. in the ch., 10 sc. in the 2nd leg, 2 sc. on the other side of the ch. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 22: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 23: 6 sc., 1 inc. = 32 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 24: 32 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn; Rnd. 25: 32 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnd. 26: 6 sc., 1 dec. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 27: 28 sc.; Rnd. 28: 5 sc., 1 dec. = 24 sc.; Rnds. 29 and 30: 24 sc.; Rnd. 31: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 4x, 4 sc. = 20 sc.; Rnds. 32 to 34 (3 rounds): 20 sc.; Rnd. 35: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 15 sc.; Rnd. 36: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 2x, 3 sc. = 13 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn; Start the head; Rnd. 37: 13 inc. = 26 sc.; Rnd. 38: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 39: (5 sc., 1 inc.) 6x, 3 sc. = 45 sc.; Rnds. 40 to 46 (7 rounds): 45 sc.; Place the safety eyes between rnds. 43 and 44, with 5 visible stitches between them, once they are in place; Rnd. 47: (5 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 48: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 33 sc.; Rnd. 49: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 27 sc.; Rnd. 50: (2 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 21 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 51: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 52: 7 dec. = 7 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; With Amigurumi 8990 (Black) yarn, embroider the shoelace; With Cléa 8990 (Black) yarn, embroider the eyebrows and a half smile; With Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn, embroider the nose (between rnds. 42 and 43); With Anne 8001 (White) yarn, embroider the number 10 in the chest and shorts. Arms (2): With Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn: Rnd. 1: 4 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 4 inc. = 8 sc.; Rnds. 3 to 14 (12 rounds): 8 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the sides of the body, at the level of the neck. Hair: With Amigurumi 7567 (Cocoa) yarn: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnd. 7: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 42 sc.; Rnds. 8 to 14 (7 rounds): 42 sc.; Make the fringe; Rnd. 15: 2 hdc., 1 sc., 2 hdc., 2 sc. = 7 sts.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the head. Basketball: With Amigurumi 4448 (Clay) yarn: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnds. 5 to 8 (4 rounds): 24 sc.; Rnd. 9: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 10: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 12 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 11: 6 dec. = 6 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; Embroider the stripes on the ball with Cléa 8990 (Black) yarn. Artisan: Viviane Rentroia (@brincardecroche) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 4 skeins of Anne yarn (147 g / 5.2 oz) – Color: 1709 (Gouda); 2.5 mm crochet hook; 1 sewing thread in the same color (Maxxi Círculo sewing thread – color: 145 gouda); Jersey lining fabric; Tracing paper; Pencil; Scissor; Measuring tape; Sewing machine. Size: US 4 / 38 Level of difficulty 07/15/2024 Abbreviations: diagram (diag), motif or motifs (mot), stitch (st), stitches (sts), repeat or repeatition (rep), repeat from to. Stitches required for this pattern (US Terms): Chain (ch); slip stitch (sl. st.), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), double crochet 2 stitches together (dc2tog), stitch pattern (A).: follow diagram 1, stitch pattern (B).: follow diagram 2. Gauge: 4” X 4” (10x10 cm). Stitch pattern A (diag. 1) 2.5 mm crochet hook 20 sts. x 11 rows Instructions: Transfer the dress pattern pieces to tracing paper to use as a reference when making the dress. Note the work direction instructions in diagrams. Dress: Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color. Start from the front neckline, work  back and forth rows. Foundation row: chain 65, work stitch pattern (A) in foundation row following the diag. 1 from the 1st to the 44th row. Continue with the skirt of the dress in rounds (circular crochet). Work front and back at once in circles. Work stitch pattern (B) following the diag. 2 and rep st. The skirt is made of 3 parts in sequence. The first part starts in the 45th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 44 times, total of 22 motifs. Repeat from the 45th to the 69th round. The second part starts in the 70th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 70 times, total of 35 mot. from the 70th to the 94th row. The third part starts in the 95th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 104 times, total of 52 mots. from the 95th to the 118th row. 3D border finishing: With the 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color, work over the 70th and the 95th rows, work 4 sc in each 5 chains space. Crochet cord: 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color. Chain 3, 1st row: Insert the hook in the 2nd chain from the hook, leaving 2 loops in the hook and work 1 sl. st. 2nd row: Rotate the motif through the wrong side on your left, insert the hook in the 2 loops from previous stitch. Now you have 3 loops in the hook, work 1 sl. st. leaving 2 loops in the hook. Work 1 sl. st leaving 1 loop in the hook. Rep. the 2nd row until you reach a 53 inches / 135 cm cord. Lining: Cut the lining following the measurements of the dress pattern. Sew the lining to the dress using the sewing machine. Sew the lining around the front neckline and top side parts. Fold a 1”  hem at the front neckline of the dress to insert the crochet cord and sew on the machine. Crochet designer: Samara Varella Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

07/15/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate Size: 23 cm (9.06″). Materials: 1 ball of Amigurumi – Colors: 7564 (Porcelain), 2829 (Ball Blue), and 3528 (Carmine); 1 ball of Amigurumi Sparkle – Colors: 7030 (Mustard) and 8001 (White); Cléa yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); 1 ball of Charme – Color: 7311 (Tobacco); Crochet hooks – 2.0 and 2.5 mm; Tapestry needle; Amigurumi eyes (8 mm) – Color: Black; Fiberfill for stuffing; Wire; Lock Stitch Marker. Stitches Used: Increase = inc.; Chain Stitch: ch.; Decrease = dec.; Single Crochet = sc. Instructions Body: Start with 7564 (Porcelain) yarn and 2.5 mm hook; Start from the feet; Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 9 sc.; Rnd. 3: 9 sc.; Rnd. 4: 8 sc., 1 inc. = 10 sc.; Rnds. 5 to 20 (16 rounds): 10 sc.; Fasten off the first leg; Make the second leg and do not cut the yarn; In the next rnd., join the legs; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn on the bolded parts; Make 2 ch. to join both legs; Rnd. 21: 10 sc. in the 1st leg, 2 sc. in the ch., 10 sc. in the 2nd leg, 2 sc. on the other side of the ch. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 22: 5 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 sc., 1 inc., 5 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 sc., 1 inc. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 23: 6 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 2 sc., 1 inc., 6 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 2 sc., 1 inc. = 32 sc.; Rnd. 24: 1 sc., 11 sc., 5 sc., 10 sc., 5 sc. = 32 sc.; Rnd. 25: 3 sc., 7 sc., 9 sc., 6 sc., 7 sc. = 32 sc.; Continue with Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 26: 6 sc., 1 dec. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 27: 28 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 28: 5 sc., 1 dec. = 24 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 29: 24 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 30: 24 sc.; Rnd. 31: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 4x, 4 sc. = 20 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnds. 32 and 33: 20 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 34: 20 sc.; Rnd. 35: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 15 sc.; Rnd. 36: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 2x, 3 sc. = 13 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn; Start the head; Rnd. 37: 13 inc. = 26 sc.; Rnd. 38: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 39: (5 sc., 1 inc.) 6x, 3 sc. = 45 sc.; Rnds. 40 to 46 (7 rounds): 45 sc.; Place the safety eyes between rnds. 43 and 44, with 5 visible stitches between them, once they are in place. Rnd. 47: (5 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 48: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 33 sc.; Rnd. 49: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 27 sc.; Rnd. 50: (2 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 21 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 51: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 52: 7 dec. = 7 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; With Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn, embroider the nose (between rnds. 42 and 43); With Cléa Black, embroider the eyelashes and apply blush (optional). Arms (2): With Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 4 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 4 inc. = 8 sc.; Rnds. 3 to 6 (4 rounds): 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 7: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 8: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnds. 9 and 10: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnds. 11 and 12: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnds. 13 and 14: 8 sc.; Fold and close the sides with 4 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the sides of the body, at the level of the neck. Hair: With Charme 7311 (Tobacco) yarn and 2.0 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnd. 7: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 42 sc.; Rnd. 8: 6 sc., 1 inc. = 48 sc.; Rnd. 9: 7 sc., 1 inc. = 54 sc.; Rnds. 10 to 15 (6 rounds): 54 sc.; Rnd. 16: 7 sc., 1 dec. = 48 sc.; Rnd. 17: 48 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the head and embroider the fringes. Hair bun: With Charme 7311 (Tobacco) yarn and 2.0 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnds. 7 to 10 (4 rounds): 36 sc.; Rnd. 11: 4 sc., 1 dec. = 30 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Sew to the top of the head. Hair bun ribbon: With Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Make 40 ch. and fasten off. Hula hoop: With Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Make a circle 9 cm in diameter with the wire; Cover by making sc. around the entire circle. Ribbon: With Amigurumi 3528 (Carmine) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Cut a piece of yarn approx. 60 cm long, pass 20 cm through the tapestry needle and make sc. covering the 20 cm of yarn. Fasten off. Artisan: Viviane Rentroia (@brincardecroche) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials: Circulo yarns Charme - 1 ball color 3754 Crochet hook 4mm Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers Measuring tape Size: S Level of difficulty 07/10/2024 Stitch glossary and abbreviations: Chain Stitch (c.h.) Single Crochet (s.c.) Slip Stitch (sl. st.) Double Crochet (d.c.) Execution: Front and back are the same and worked separately. Start with a string of chains with a multiple number of 5 + 3. This will be your bust measurement, from armpit to armpit. Reference for size S: 68 ch. Go back in the 4th ch. and make 1d.c. Continue to the end of the row making d.c. for a total of 66 d.c. Turn the work, make 3 ch. and work this round with d.c. until the end. Turn the work and make 5 ch. skip 4 stitch spaces and in the 5th space insert the needle making in the same stitch space: 1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. make 2 c.h. skip 4 stitch spaces and in the 5th space repeat: 1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Repeat the process until the end of the row, at the end of the row make 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. *Make 1 c.h. turn the work and place 1 s.c.  in the first space at the foot of the chain. Work a fan in the middle of the next V: 3 d.c. 2 c.h. and 3 d.c. In the next space place a s.c. Repeat this process until the end of the round, alternating a fan and a s.c. and finishing with 1 s.c. in the third chain. Turn the work, make 5 c.h. and in the middle of the fan from the previous round insert:1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Work 2 c.h. and in the next fan: 1 d.c., 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Repeat this process until the end of the row, at the end of the row make 2 c.h. and 1 d.c.* Repeat the pattern from to for 9 more rows, ending with a V row. On the 12th row: pick up 3 c.h. and work d.c. to the end of the row, making 66 d.c. distribute over the spaces: 3 d.c., 2 d.c., 3 d.c. Finish the round with 5 d.c. in the same space. On the rows with only single crochets, the number of stitches should be the same as the number of stitches on the first row (66 d.c.). Round 13: Pick up 3 c.h. and work d.c. to the end of the round. On the 14th row continue the pattern in this way: 4 rows of fans 1 row of V 2 rows of d.c. 30 rows of fans 1 row of V To hem the garment, make 3 rows of d.c. Repeat the process for the second panel. Neckline and armholes: Separate 24cm for each armhole, place the stitch marker. Separate 26 cm for the neckline, leaving 6 cm on each side for the shoulders and place the stitch markers. Join the shoulders on the wrong side with sl. st.. Join the sides on the wrong side with s.c. Finishing: With the double yarn, make a cord with 120 cm of chains and pass it through the garment between the stitches at the waist Created by: Joana Gouveia, @FiosCruzados. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

⬆️ Click on the photo and journey to Ravelry's website, where you can seamlessly purchase the pattern and bring your crafting dreams to life. Size: 36(40,44,48,52,56,60,64)in By: Angeline Webb Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 1 ball of Amigurumi Pelúcia - colors: 7625 (Chestnut), 5743 (Neo Mint), 4456 (Orange) e 7564 (Porcelain); 1 ball of Amigurumi – color: 7569 (Brownie); Scraps of yarn Amigurumi – color: 8176 (Off-White); Safety eyes (10 mm) – Cor: Castanho; Crochet hook - 3,5 mm; Tapestry needle; Polyfill stuffing. Level of difficulty Stitches used: Increase= incr.; Triple increase = Tincr.; Chain= ch.; Decrease= decr..; Double crochet = DC; Single crochet = SC. Approximate size 21,5 cm height Execution: Legs (2), body and head Start with the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 4-6th round (3 rounds): 18 SC; 7th round: 3 SC, 6 decr., 3 SC = 12 SC. Switch to the color 5743 8th round: 12 SC; 9th round: 3 SC, 1 incr. = 15 SC; 10th round: 4 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 11th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 24 SC; Fasten off  the first leg. Make a second leg and, without cutting the yarn, continue: 12th round: 1 SC in the second leg, 24 SC in the first one, 23 SC in the second leg = 48 SC; 13th round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 54 SC Stuff the legs with polyfill. 14-16th rounds (3 rounds): 54 SC Switch to the color 4456 17-20th rounds (4 rounds): 54 SC; 21st round: 16 SC, 1 decr. = 51 SC; 22nd round: 15 SC, 1 decr. = 48 SC; 23rd round: 14 SC, 1 decr. = 45 SC; 24th round: 13 SC, 1 decr. = 42 SC; 25th round: 5 SC, 1 decr. = 36 SC; 26th round: 4 SC, 1 decr. = 30 SC; 27th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 24 SC. Stuff the body with polyfill. Switch to the color 7625 28th round: 24 SC; 29th round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 36 SC; 30th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 48 SC; 31st round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 54 SC; 32-41st rounds (10 rounds): 54 SC Attach the safety eyes between rounds 38 and 39, 10 sts apart from each other. 42nd round: 7 SC, 1 decr. = 48 SC; 43rd round: 6 SC, 1 dim. = 42 SC; 44th round: 5 SC, 1 decr. = 36 SC; 45th round: 4 SC, 1 decr. = 30 SC; 46th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 24 SC; 47th round: 2 SC, 1 decr. = 18 SC Stuff the head with polyfill. 48th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 12 SC; 49th round: 6 decr. = 6 SC. Fasten off with an inverted magic ring. With the color 7567, embroider the eyebrows in a diagonal between rounds 40-41 with a 4 sts width; Embroider the eye detail with the color 8176. Ears With the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 12 SC; 4th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 8 SC Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming. Sew the ears between rows 43 and 44 of the head. Snout With the color 7564 1st round: 6 SC dentro do anel mágico; 2nd round: 1 SC, 1 Tincr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 2 SC, 1 Tincr., (3 SC, 1 Tincr.) 2x, 1 SC = 18 SC; 4th round: 18 SC. Fasten off. Stuff it with a bit of polyfill. Sew it between rounds 32 and 38 of the head, leaving one of the Tincr. facing downwards; With the color 7567, embroider the nose and smile. Arms (2) Start with the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 3 SC, 1 incr. = 15 SC; 4th round: 15 SC Switch to the color 4456 5-7th rounds (3 rounds): 15 SC; 8th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 12 SC; 9th round: 12 SC; 10th round: 2 SC, 1 decr. = 9 SC; 11th round: 9 SC; 12th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 6 SC Stuff the hand with polyfill. Fold and sew the sides with 3 SCs Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the arms between rows 25 and 27 of the body. Hat Start with the color 5743 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 4th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 24 SC; 5th round: 24 SC; 6th round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 27 SC; 7th round: 27 SC; Switch to the color 4456 8th round: 8 SC, 1 incr. = 30 SC Switch to the color 5743 9th round (only on the front loop of the sts): 4 SC, 1 incr. = 36 SC; 10th round: 5 SC, 1 incr. = 42 SC Fasten off. Scarf With the color 5743 Chain 6; 1st round: skip 3 chains (counts as as 1 DC), 3 DC = 4 DC; 2nd-34th rounds (33 rounds): ch. 2 (counts as 1 DC), 3 DC = 4 DC Fasten off. Created by: Juliana Penhorate (@amigujumi) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Yarn: Anne 500 (100% Cotton, 547 yds / 500 m – 147,5 grams). MC: 3 (3 3 4 4) (5 5 6 7) balls of colorway 4514 Pessego (Peach). CC: 1 (1 1 1 1) (1 1 2 2) balls of colorway 4456 Laranja (Orange). Or Yarn: Anne 250 (100% Cotton, 273.4 yds / 250 m – 73g). MC: 6 (6 6 8 8) (10 10 12 14) balls of colorway 4514 Pessego (Peach). CC: 2 (2 2 2 2) (2 2 4 4) balls of colorway 4456 Laranja (Orange). Needles: US 4 / 3.5 mm 32" / 80 cm circular needles and DPNs, US 3 / 3.25 mm 32" / 80 cm circular needles and DPNs (or preferred needles for small circumference knitting). Notions: Stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, 6 buttons with 0.5’’ / 1.2 cm diameter, tapestry needle. Level of difficulty Pêssego cardigan is a boxy cardigan with an interesting stitch pattern. It is knitted in fingering weight yarn with a lot of positive ease. The pattern is easy-to-memorize and very fun to work. SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) Recommended ease: 8 to 10” / 20 to 35 cm of positive ease. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Final Chest circumference (including ease): 40 (45 50 53 56.75) (61.5 65 70 73)” / 100 (112.5 125 133 142) (154 162.5 175 183) cm. Body length from underarm to hem: 12’’ / 30 cm (all sizes). Armhole Depth: 8.75 (9 9.5 10.25 11) (12 12.75 13 13.5)” / 22 (23 24 26 28) (30 32 33 34) cm. Upper Arm Circumference: 17.5 (18.25 19 20.75 22.25) (24 25.5 26.25 27)” / 44 (46 48 52 56) (60 64 66 68) cm. Sleeve length from underarm to cuff: 15.75’’ / 37 cm. GAUGE 24 sts x 33 rounds to 4” / 10 cm on US 4 / 3.5 mm needles in Pessego Pattern after blocking. NOTES When it is written “Pessego Pattern to x sts from end” it means that you are going to work the full pattern (10 sts repeat). When it is written “y sts of Pessego Pattern”, it means you are going to work the y sts before or after the full repetition of the pattern and you must keep following the pattern. This cardigan is worked from the top down. You may wish to try on the cardigan before joining the back and fronts at the base of the armholes. Both body and sleeves lengths are easily modified to suit your own body measurements and the drop-shoulder construction makes it simple to adjust the size you choose to work for the sleeves. STITCH PATTERNS 2 X 2 Rib (flat) Row 1 (RS): K2, p2, repeat – to end. Row 2 (WS): K2, p2, repeat – to end. Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern. 2 X 2 Rib (in the round) Round 1: K2, p2, repeat – to end. Repeat rnd 1 for pattern. Pessego Pattern (flat) Row 1 (RS): K5, 1/1 LC, k3, repeat – to end. Row 2 (WS): Purl to end. Row 3 (RS): Knit to end. Row 4 (WS): Purl to end. Rows 5-10: Repeat rows 3 and 4. Row 11 (RS): 1/1 LC, k8, repeat – to end. Row 12 (WS): Purl to end. Rows 13-20: Repeat rows 3 and 4. Pessego Pattern (in the round) Round 1: K5, 1/1 LC, k3, repeat – to end. Rounds 2-10: Knit to end. Round 11: 1/1 LC, k8, repeat – to end. Rounds 12-10: Knit to end. DIRECTIONS BACK With MC and US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO 122 (137, 152, 162, 172) (187, 197, 212, 222) sts using the cast on method of your choice. Purl 1 row. Place a split-ring marker or a safety pin through 40 (47, 52, 57, 61) (66, 71, 77, 82) sts in from each side along cast on edge. SHAPE SHOULDERS Short Row 1 (RS): K 115 (129, 143, 152, 161) (175, 184, 198, 207), turn work. Short Row 2 (WS): mDS, p 107 (120, 133, 141, 149) (162, 170, 183, 191), turn work. Short Row 3 (RS): mDS, k to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Row 4 (WS): mDS, p to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Rows 5-10: Rep Short Rows 3-4 three more times. Note: In the next rows, when working over the DS, kDS or pDS depending on whether you are knitting or purling. Next Row (RS): mDS, k to the end. Next Row (WS): P to the end. MAIN FABRIC Begin Pessego Pattern, beginning with Row 1 and keep working as follows: Next Row (RS): K1, Pessego Pattern to 1 (6, 1, 1, 1) (6, 6, 1, 1) st from end, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, k1. Next Row (WS): P1, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, Pessego Pattern to 1 st from end, p1. Work even (according to the established stitch pattern) until piece measures 8.75 (9 9.5 10.25 11) (12 12.75 13 13.5)” / 22 (23 24 26 28) (30 32 33 34) cm measured at armhole edge, ending with a WS row. Note: If you prefer to work a different sleeve size than body size, work to the armhole depth that matches the size of the sleeve that you will work. Break yarn; transfer sts to a stitch holder or a waste yarn and set aside. RIGHT FRONT Note: Now you are going to start the increases for the V neck. You will increase 1 st (m1r) before the last 2 sts in the end of the row on the right side every 4th row for 15 (15, 18, 18, 19) (21, 21, 23, 23) times, and then every 2nd row twice. With MC and RS of back facing, US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and beginning at armhole edge, pick up and knit 41 (48, 53, 58, 62) (67, 72, 78, 83) sts from armhole edge to marker. SHAPE SHOULDERS Short Row 1 (WS): P 34 (40, 44, 48, 51) (55, 59, 64, 68), turn work. Short Row 2 (RS): mDS, k to 1 st from end, m1r, k1. Short Row 3 (WS): P to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Row 4 (RS) (V neck increase): mDS, k to 2 sts from end, m1r, k2. Short Row 5 (WS): P to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Row 6 (RS): mDS, k to end. Short Rows 7-10: Rep Short Rows 3-6 one more time. Next Row (WS): P to the end. Next Row (RS) (V neck increase): K to 2 sts from end, m1r, k2. Next Row (WS): P to the end. MAIN FABRIC Begin Pessego Pattern, beginning with Row 1 and keep working as follows (note: the first and last sts in Pessego Pattern are not a complete 10 sts pattern repeat): Next Row (RS): K1, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, Pessego Pattern to 4 (6, 6, 11, 5) (5, 10, 11, 6) sts from end, PM, 2 (4, 4, 9, 3) (3, 8, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, PM, k2. Next Row (WS): P2, SM, 2 (4, 4, 9, 3) (3, 8, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, SM, Pessego Pattern to 1 (6, 1, 1, 1) (6, 6, 1, 1) st from end, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, p1. Next Row (RS) (V neck increase): K1, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, Pessego Pattern to 4 (6, 6, 11, 5) (5, 10, 11, 6) sts from end, SM, 2 (4, 4, 9, 3) (3, 8, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, m1r, SM, k2. Next Row (WS): P2, SM, 3 (5, 5, 10, 4) (4, 9, 10, 5) sts in Pessego Pattern, SM, Pessego Pattern to 1 (6, 1, 1, 1) (6, 6, 1, 1) st from end, 0 (5, 0, 0, 0) (5, 5, 0, 0) sts in Pessego Pattern, p1. Note 1: Every time you have 10 sts between markers, you can do one more repetition of Pessego Pattern. In that moment you move the first marker 10 sts to the left and start counting again. Note 2: Don´t forget to keep doing the V neck increases until you have 59 (66, 74, 79, 84) (91, 94, 104, 109) sts in the front. Work even (according to the established stitch pattern) until piece measures 8.75 (9 9.5 10.25 11) (12 12.75 13 13.5)” / 22 (23 24 26 28) (30 32 33 34) cm measured at armhole edge, ending with a WS row (the same chart row you finished in the back). Break yarn and transfer stitches to stitch holder or waste yarn. LEFT FRONT Note: Now you are going to start the increases for the V neck. You will increase 1 st (m1l) after the first 2 sts in the beginning of the row on the right side every 4th row for 15 (15, 18, 18, 19) (21, 21, 23, 23) times, and then every 2nd row twice. With MC and RS of back facing, US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and beginning at left split-ring marker, pick up and knit 41 (48, 53, 58, 62) (67, 72, 78, 83) sts from marker to armhole edge. Purl 1 row (WS). SHAPE SHOULDER (don´t forget to do the V neck increases) Short Row 1 (RS): K1, m1l, k 33 (39, 43, 47, 50) (54, 58, 63, 67), turn work. Short Row 2 (WS): mDS, p to end. Short Row 3 (RS) (V neck increase): K2, m1l, k to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Row 4 (WS): mDS, p to end. Short Row 5 (RS): K to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) sts before DS from previous row, turn work. Short Row 6 (WS): mDS, p to end. Short Rows 7-10: Rep Short Rows 3-6 one more time. Next Row (RS) (V neck increase): K2, m1l, k to the end. Next Row (WS): P to the end. MAIN FABRIC Begin Pessego Pattern, beginning with Row 1 and keep working as follows (note: the first sts in Pessego Pattern are not a complete 10 sts pattern): Next Row (RS): K2, PM, 2 (9, 4, 9, 3) (8, 3, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, PM, Pessego Pattern to 1 st from end, k1. Next Row (WS): P1, Pessego Pattern to marker, SM, 2 (9, 4, 9, 3) (8, 3, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, SM, p2. Next Row (RS) (V neck increase): K2, SM, m1l, 2 (9, 4, 9, 3) (8, 3, 9, 4) sts in Pessego Pattern, SM, Pessego Pattern to 1 st from end, k1. Next Row (WS): P1, Pessego Pattern to marker, SM, 3 (10, 5, 10, 4) (9, 4, 10, 5) sts in Pessego Pattern, SM, p2. Note 1: Every time you have 10 sts between markers, you can do 1 more repetition of Pessego Pattern. In that moment you move the second marker 10 sts to the right and start counting again. Note 2: Don´t forget to keep doing the V neck increases until you have 59 (66, 74, 79, 84) (91, 94, 104, 109) sts in the front. Work even (according to the established stitch pattern) until piece measures 8.75 (9 9.5 10.25 11) (12 12.75 13 13.5)” / 22 (23 24 26 28) (30 32 33 34) cm measured at armhole edge, ending with a WS row (the same chart row you finished in the back). JOIN BACK AND FRONTS Joining Row (RS): Work in established pattern across left front sts to 2 sts from end, k2tog, PM, then return held back stitches to LHN and ssk, work in established pattern across back sts to 2 sts from end, k2tog, PM, then return held right front stitches to LHN and ssk, work in established pattern across right front sts. 236 (265, 296, 316, 336) (365, 386, 416, 436) sts. BODY Work even (according to the established stitch pattern) until piece measures 10.5’’ / 26.5 cm from underarm or 1.25” / 3.5 cm less than desired length. RIBBING Join CC and remove markers. With CC and US 3 / 3.25 mm needles, work as follows (RS): 0 (k2tog, 0, 0, 0) (k2tog, k2tog, 0, 0), k to 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) (0, 2, 0, 0) sts from end, 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) (0, k2tog, 0, 0). 236 (264, 296, 316, 336) (364, 384, 416, 436) sts. With CC, work 3 rows in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern (see Stitch Patterns). With MC, work 2 rows in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. With CC, work 2 rows in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. With MC, work 4 rows in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. Cut MC. Next Row (RS) (CC): Knit to the end. BO all sts with a relaxed tension. SLEEVES Note: If you have chosen to work a different sleeve size than body size, remember to follow the corresponding instructions for the new size when working the sleeves. With MC, US 4 / 3.5 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference circular knitting and beginning at underarm join, pick up and knit 108 (110, 114, 126, 134) (144, 154, 158, 164) sts around the armhole (+/- 3 sts every 4 rows). Place marker for BOR and join for working in the rnd. Begin Pessego Pattern, beginning with Row 1 and keep working as follows: Next Rnd: K 4 (0, 2, 3, 2) (2, 2, 4, 2), Pessego Pattern to 4 (0, 2, 3, 2) (2, 2, 4, 2) st from end, k 4 (0, 2, 3, 2) (2, 2, 4, 2). SHAPE SLEEVES Work in established pattern 9 rnds. Sleeve Decrease Rnd: K2tog, work in established pattern to 2 sts from end, ssk. (2 stitches dec(‘d)). Rep last 10 rnds 10 (10, 10, 7, 5) (3, 0, 0, 0) more times. 86 (88, 92, 110, 122) (136, 152, 156, 162) sts. Only Sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 Work in established pattern 4 rnds. Sleeve Decrease Rnd: K2tog, work in established pattern to 2 sts from end, ssk. (2 stitches dec(‘d)). Rep last 10 rnds 0 (0, 0, 5, 9) (15, 21, 21, 21) more times. 86 (88, 92, 98, 102) (104, 108, 112, 118) sts. All Sizes Work even (according to the established stitch pattern) until sleeve measures 15.75’’ / 37 cm from underarm or 1.25” / 3.5 cm less than desired length. RIBBING Join CC. With CC and US 3 / 3.25 mm needles, work next Rnd (decrease round) (CC): K 1 (2, 1, 1, 0) (1, 0, 2, 2), [k2tog, k1] to 0 (2, 1, 1, 0) (1, 0, 2, 2) sts from end, k 1 (2, 1, 1, 0) (1, 0, 2, 2). 58 (60, 62, 66, 68) (70, 72, 76, 80) sts. Next Rnd (decrease round) (CC): K2tog (0, k2tog, k2tog, 0) (k2tog, 0, 0, 0), k 1 (2, 1, 1, 2) (1, 2, 2, 2), p2, [k2, p2] to 5 (4, 5, 5, 4) (5, 4, 4, 4) sts from end, k2, p 1 (2, 1, 1, 2) (1, 2, 2, 2), p2tog (0, p2tog, p2tog, 0) (p2tog, 0, 0, 0). 56 (60, 60, 64, 68) (68, 72, 76, 80) sts. With CC, work 2 rnds in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. With MC, work 2 rnds in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. With CC, work 2 rnds in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. With MC, work 4 rnds in 2x2 Ribbing Pattern. Cut MC. Next Rnd (CC): Knit to the end. BO all sts with a relaxed tension. BUTTON BAND With RS facing, using CC, US 3 / 3.25 mm needles and starting at the bottom of right front, pick up and knit 122 (122, 128, 130, 134) (138, 138, 146, 146) sts until the back, then along back neck edge pick up and knit 42 (42, 50, 50, 50) (54, 54, 58, 58) sts and then pick up and knit 122 (122, 128, 130, 134) (138, 138, 146, 146) sts along left front. 286 (286, 306, 310, 318) (330, 330, 350, 350) sts. Next Row (WS) (CC): P2, [k2, p2] to the end. Next Row (RS) (CC): K2, [p2, k2] to the end. Next Row (WS) (CC): P2, [k2, p2] to the end. Next Row (RS) (CC) (Button hole): K2, p1, [yo, k2tog, k1, [p2,k2] 2 times, p2, k1, yo, p2tog, p1, [k2, p2] 2 times, k2, p1] 2 times, yo, k2tog, k1, [p2,k2] 2 times, p2, k1, yo, p2tog, p1, [k2, p2] to 2 sts from end, k2. Next Row (WS) (MC): P2, [k2, p2] to the end. Next Row (RS) (MC): K2, [p2, k2] to the end. Next Row (WS) (CC): Purl to end. BO all sts with a relaxed tension. FINISHING Weave in ends. Sew underarms openings if necessary. Sew the 6 buttons. Wet or steam block to measurements. ABBREVIATIONS USED: 1/1 LC – Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and put it on the front of the work, k1, then k1 from cable needle. approx. - Approximately BO – Bind off CC – Contrast Colour. CO – Cast On dec(‘d) – Decrease(d)/ decreasing DPN(s) – Double Point Needle(s) DS – Double stitch inc(‘d) – Increase(d)/ increasing k – Knit k2tog – Knit two stitches together (1 stitch decrease) kDS – Knit double stitch: Knit both legs together LH - Left Hand LHN – Left-hand needle m – Marker m1r – Right slanting increase, make one right (1 stitch increased) m1l - Left slanting increase, make one left (1 stitch increased) MC – Main Color mDS – Make double stitch: Slip the next stitch with yarn in front. Bring the yarn over the right needle to the back and pull on the slipped stitch until it looks like a double stitch (two legs) p – Purl p2tog – Purl two stitches together (1 stitch decrease) pDS – Purl double stitch: Purl both legs together PM – Place marker rep - Repeat RH - Right Hand rnd(s) – Round(s) RS – Right Side of fabric SM – Slip marker ssk – Slip, slip, knit: Slip 2 stitches one at a time as if to knit, knit them together through back loops (1 stitch decresed) st(s) – Stitch(es) WS – Wrong side of fabric yds – Yards yo – Yarn Over - - Repeat from to [ ] - Repeat Created by: Maria G Knits Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 2 skeins of Anne 250 or 1 skein of Anne 500 in the color 7684 (porcelain); 1 skein of Anne 65m in the color 7684 (porcelain); 1 skein of Anne 65m each color: 7311 (tobacco), 7148 (craft), 7625 (chestnut) e 7650 (almond); Circulo 4.00 mm circular bamboo knitting needles and 80 cm cable; Circulo tapestry needle; Pins; Wax paper; Pencil; Scissors; Measuring tape, Steam iron. Size: One size fits all. Level of difficulty 07/08/2024 Abbreviations: tog: together, yo: yarn over, k: knit, p: purl, st: stitch, sts: stitches, BO: bind-off. Knitting stitches used: shawl: follow chart 1, k2tog (right leaning decrease): knit 2 stitches together as usual; k2togtbl (left leaning decrease): knit 2 stitches together through the back loop; k3togtbl (left leaning double decrease): knit 3 stitches together through the back loop. Gauge: 10 x 10 square in stitch pattern (chart 1) with 4.00 circular needles = 19 sts x 28 rows. Execution: transfer the molds to wax paper to use as reference when knitting the piece. Pay attention to the arrows on the measurement chart that indicate the direction of the work. Shawl: Use the yarn Anne in the color porcelain. Make the sts using both (100 and 60 cm) 4.00 mm circular knitting needles. Provisional cast-on 3 sts on the 4.00 mm needles; these 3 sts will stay on the bottom needle and will be worked later. With the top needle, work on the 3 sts to begin the project. 1st to 7th rows: p3; NOTE: knit the 8th row as follows: p3, pick up and p 3 sts on the side of the work (1 st for each 2 rows), place the provisional cast-on sts back on the left needle and p them (9 sts total on row 8). Follow the instructions below or chart 1. Purl all sts on even rows. 9th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, p3. 11th row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, p3. 13th row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, p3. 15th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, p3. 17th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 19th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, p3. 21st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 23rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain (do not break the yarn) to go back to it later; join the color Almond and p rows 24th and 26th. 25th row: p3, yo, p17, yo, k1 (center), yo, p17, yo, p3. 27th row: p3, yo, p17, yo, k1 (center), yo, p19, yo, p3; break the yarn in the color Almond, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 28. 29th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 1 more time, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 1 more time, yo, p1, yo, p3. 31st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 1 more time, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 1 more time, yo, p3, yo, p3. 33rd row: p3,*yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1*, repeat 1 more time, yo, p5, yo, k 1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 1 more time, yo, p5, yo, p3. 35ªth row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 1 more time, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  1 more time, yo, p7, yo, p3. 37th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 1 more time, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat   1 more time, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 39th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 1 more time, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  1 more time, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 41st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 1 more time, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  1 more time, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 43rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat ** 1 more time, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2*, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat ** 1 more time, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to go back to it later; join the yarn in the color Chestnut and purl rows 44 and 46. 45th row: p3, yo, p37, yo, k1 (center), yo, p37, yo, p3. 47th row: p3, yo, p39, yo, k1 (center), yo, p39, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Chestnut, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 48. 49th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 3 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 3 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 51st row: yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 3 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  3 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 53rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k11, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 3 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 3 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 55th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 3 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  3 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 57th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 3 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  3 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 59th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2 yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 3 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 3 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 61st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 3 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  3 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 63rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 3 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  3 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later; join the yarn in the color Craft and p rows 64 and 66. 65th row: p3, yo, p57, yo, k1 (center), yo, p57, yo, p3. 67th row: p3, yo, p59, yo, k1 (center), yo, p59, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Craft, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 68. 69th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 5 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 5 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 71st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 5 more times, yo, 03, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 5 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 73rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 5 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  5 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 75th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 5 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  5 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 77th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 5 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  5 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 79th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 5 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  5 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 81st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, peat 5 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  5 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 83rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 5 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  5 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later. Join the yarn in the color Tobacco and p rows 84 and 86. 85th row: p3, yo, p77, yo, k1 (center), yo, p77, yo, p3. 87th row: p3, yo, p79, yo, k1 (center), yo, p79, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Tobacco, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 88. 89th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 7 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 7 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 91st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 7 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 7 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 93rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 7 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 7 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 95th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 7 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 7 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 97th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 7 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  7 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 99th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 7 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2m k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  7 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 101st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 7 more times, yom, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  7 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 103rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 7 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  7 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later; join the yarn in the color Almond and p rows 104 and 106. 105th row: p3, yo, p97, yo, k1 (center), yo, p97, yo, p3. 107th row: p3, yo, p99, yo, k1 (center), yo, p99, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Almond, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 108. 109th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 9 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 9 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 111th row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 9 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 9 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 113th row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 9 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 9 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 115th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repat 9 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  9 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 117th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 9 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  9 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 119th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 9 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  9 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 121st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 9 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  9 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 123rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 9 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  9 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later; join the yarn in the color Chestnut and p rows 124 and 126. 125th row: p3, yo, p117, yo, k1 (center), yo, p117, yo, p3. 127th row: p3, yo, p119, yo, k1 (center), yo, p119, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Chestnut, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 128. 129th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 11 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 11 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 131st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 11 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 11 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 133rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 11 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 11 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 135th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 11 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat   11 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 137th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 11 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  11 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 139th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 11 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  11 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, p3. 141st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 11 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  11 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 143rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 11 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  11 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later; join the yarn in the color Craft and p rows 144 and 146. 145th row: p3, yo, p137, yo, k1 (center), yo, p137, yo, p3. 147th row: p3, yo, p139, yo, k1 (center), yo, p139, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Craft, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 148. 149th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 13 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat   13 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 151st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 13 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 13 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 153rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 13 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 13 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 155th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 13 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  13 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 157th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 13 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  13 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3, 159th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 13 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  13 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 161st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 13 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  13 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 163rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 13 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  13 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Drop the yarn in the color Porcelain to work with it later. Join the yarn in the color Tobacco and p rows 164 and 166. 165th row: p3, yo, p157, yo, k1 (center), yo, p157, yo, p3. 167th row: p3, yo, p159, yo, k1 (center), yo, p159, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Tobacco, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later; pick up the yarn in the color Porcelain again and p row 168. 169th row: p3, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 15 more times, yo, p1, yo, k1 (center), yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat  15 more times, yo, p1, yo, p3. 170th row: p333; 171st row: p3, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 15 more times, yo, p3, yo, k1 (center), yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat  15 more times, yo, p3, yo, p3. 173rd row: p3, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 15 more times, yo, p5, yo, k1 (center), yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat  15 more times, yo, p5, yo, p3. 175th row: p3, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 15 more times, yo, p7, yo, k1 (center), yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 15 more times, yo, p7, yo, p3. 177th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 15 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k3, k3togtbl, k3, repeat 15 more times, yo, p1, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 179th row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 15 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p3, yo, k2, k3togtbl, k2, repeat 15 more times, yo, p3, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 181st row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 15 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p5, yo, k1, k3togtbl, k1, repeat 15 more times, yo, p5, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. 183rd row: p3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat 15 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, k1 (center), yo, k2tog, k2, yo, p7, yo, k3togtbl, repeat  15 more times, yo, p7, yo, k2, k2togtbl, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color porcelain. Join the yarn in the color Almond and p rows 184 and 186. 185ª carr.: 3 t., 1 laç., 177 t., 1 laç., 1 m. central, 1 laç., 177 t., 1 laç., 3 t.; 187th row: p3, yo, p179, yo, k1 (center), yo, p179, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Almond, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Join the yarn in the color Chestnut and p rows 188 and 190. 189th row: p3, yo, p181, yo, k1 (center), yo, p181, yo, p3. 191st row.: p3, yo, p183, yo, k1 (center), yo, p183, yo, p3. Break the yarn in the color Chestnut, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Join the yarn in the color Craft and p rows 192 and 194. 193rd row: p3, yo, p185, yo, k1 (center), yo, p185, yo, p3. 195th row: p3, yo, p187, yo, k1 (center), yo, p187, yo, p3. Breat the yarn in the color Craft, leaving a 15 cm tail to weave in later. Join the yarn in the color Tobacco and p row 196. Picot bind-off: bind-off the first 4 sts purlwise, slip the st back to the left needle, p it twice (1 incr.), slip it back to the left needle and p2, slip them back to the left needle and p2tog; bind-off the next 4 sts purlwise, repeat ** 94 more times, bind-off the next 4 sts purlwise. Finishing: weave in all the ends using the tapestry needle. Steam block the piece with the steam iron, using pins to stretch it and give it the right shape and measurements, according to the measurement chart. Designer: Carlos Adriano C. Xavier Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

07/09/2024 Level of difficulty Materials 1 skein de Amigurumi Pelúcia – colors: 7650 (Almond), 3293 (Imperial), 3583 (Cherry), 3148 (Macadamia), 5800 (Pistachio), 5398 (Moss), 2194 (Turquoise), 2829 (Ball blue); 1 skein of Amigurumi Soft – colors:  8001 (White) e 7569 (Brownie); Tapestry needle – nº 13; Crochet hook – 2.5 mm and 4 mm; 10 mm safety eyes – color: black; Stuffing. Measurements: height: 21,5 cm (rolled) and length: 120 cm (open). Stitches used: ●        Chain= ch. ●        Single crochet = SC. ●        Half double crochet = HDC. ●        slip stitch = slst. ●        Decrease = dec. ●        Increase = inc. ●        Stitches = sts. Head and body Start with the color 7650 (Almond) and the 4 mm crochet hook. 1st round: 6 SC into a magic loop; 2nd round: 6 inc. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 1 SC, 1 inc. = 18 SC; 4th round: 2 SC, 1 inc. = 24 SC; 5th round: 3 SC, 1 inc. = 30 SC; 6th round: 4 SC, 1 inc. = 36 SC; 7th round: 5 SC, 1 inc. = 42 SC (PICTURE 1) NOTE: place a stitch marker on round 10, between stitches 16-17 and 22-23. (PICTURE 2) 8th-12th rounds: 42 SC; Place the safety eyes on the places marked on round 10, between sts 16-17 and 22-23 (PICTURES 3, 4) 13th round: 5 SC, 1 dec. = 36 SC; 14th round: 4 SC, 1 dec. = 30 SC; 15th round: 3 SC, 1 dec. = 24 SC; Stuff the plushie. (PICTURE 5) 16th-27th rounds: 24 SC; Stuff the rest of the plushie. (PICTURE 6) 28th round: 5 inc., 7 SC, 5 dec., 2 SC = 24 SC; 29th-30th rounds: 24 SC; 31st round: (1 inc., 1 SC) 3x, 18 SC = 27 SC; 32nd round: 27 SC; 33rd round: (2 SC, 1 inc.) 3x, 8 SC, 2 dec., 6 SC = 28 SC; 34th round: 28 SC. (PICTURE 7); 35th round: 19 SC, 2 dec., 5 SC = 26 SC; 36th round: (3 SC, 1 inc.) 3x, 6 SC, 2 dec., 4 SC = 27 SC; 37th round: 27 SC; 38th round: 20 SC, 3 dec., 1 SC = 24 SC; 39th round: 24 SC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 8) Position the head in a way that it’s straight and sew it, closing the neck opening. (PICTURES 9, 10, 11) Switch to the color 3293 (Imperial). (PICTURE 12) 40th-63rd rounds: 28 SC; Switch to the color 3583 (Carmim). (PICTURE 13) 64th-87th rounds: 28 SC; Switch to the color 3148 (Macadamia). (PICTURE 14) 88th-111th rounds: 28 SC; Switch to the color 5800 (Pistachio). (PICTURE 15) 112th-135th rounds: 28 SC; Switch to the color 5398 (Moss). (PICTURE 16) 136th-158th rounds: 28 SC; 159th round: 6 SC with the color 5398, switch to the color 2194 and make 22 SC = 28 pb.; (PICTURE 17) 160th-182nd rounds: 28 SC; 183rd round: 6 SC with the color 2194, switch to the color 2829 and make 22 SC = 28 SC; (PICTURE 18) 184th-206th rounds: 28 SC; 207th round: 6 SC. Fold the piece in half and close it with 14 SC. (PICTURES 19, 20) Antennas (2) With the Amigurumi Soft 7569 (Brownie) e 2.5 mm crochet hook: 1st round: 6 SC into a magic loop; 2nd round: 6 inc. = 12 SC; 3rd-5th rounds: 12 SC; 6th round: 6 dec. = 6 SC 7th-13th rounds: 6 SC. Stuff the plushie and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURES 21 and 22) Position the antennas between rounds 4 and 5 with 3 stitches apart, and sew them in. (PICTURES 23 and 24) Numbers With the yarn Amigurumi Soft 8001 (White): Number 1 Ch 32. 1st row: 30 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 25) Position the number on the stripe of color 3293 (Imperial) and sew it. (PICTURES 26 and 27) Number 2 Ch 39. 1st row: 37 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 28) Position the number on the stripe of color 3583 (Carmim) and sew it. (PICTURES 29 and 30) Number 3 Ch 42. 1st row: 40 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 31) Position the number on the stripe of color 3148 (Macadamia) and sew it. (PICTURES 32 and 33) Number 4 Ch 52. 1st row: 50 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 34) Position the number on the stripe of color 5800 (Pistachio) and sew it. (PICTURES 35 and 36) Number 5 Ch 45. 1st row: 43 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 37) Position the number on the stripe of color 5398 (Moss) and sew it. (PICTURES 38 and 39) Number 6 Ch 52. 1st row: 50 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 40) Position the number on the stripe of color 2194 (Turquoise) and sew it. (PICTURES 41 and 42) Number 7 Ch 37. 1st row: 35 HDC. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (PICTURE 43) Position the number on the stripe of color 2829 (Ball blue) and sew it. (PICTURES 44 and 45) With the yarn Amigurumi Soft 8001 (White), embroider the mouth and facial expressions. (PICTURE 46) Creation: Maria Fantoni Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials: Charme (150 g), 1 skein in each of the colors: 3402 (Circulo red), 2856 (Teal), 2 skeins color 8001 (White); 3,00 mm bamboo circular needles and 80 cm cable; stitch marker; Circulo tapestry needle; Wax paper; Pencil; Scissors; Measuring tape. Size: L Level of difficulty 06/27/2024 Abbreviations: st: stitch, sts: stitches, RS: right side,  WS: wrong side, k: knit stitch, p: purl stitch. Knitting stitches used: Moss stitch (A): follow chart 1, 1x1 ribbing (B)- in the round: follow chart 2, sl1wyib: slip 1 stitch with the yarn in the back, sl1wyif: slip 1 stitch with the yarn in the front, ssk (left leaning decrease): slip the 1st stitch knitwise, the second purlwise, place both back at the left needle and k them together.. Tubular bind-off: work from right to left. Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch (a knit stitch) purlwise and draw the yarn through, insert the needle between the first 2 sts from back to front, then knitwise into the second stitch (purl stitch), draw the yarn through. with the tapestry needle in front of the work, insert it into the first stitch (knit st) knitwise and slip it off the needle. Then skip the new first stitch on the needle (purl st) and insert the needle purlwise into the second one without slipping them off the needle, draw the yarn through. Insert the needle through the first stitch (purl) purlwise and slip it off the needle. Insert the needle between the first 2 sts from back to front, then knitwise into the second stitch (purl) and draw the yarn through. Repeat ** until the end of the row. Gauge: 10 x 10 square in moss stitch (chart 1), using 3.00 mm circular needles = 26 sts x 30 rows. Execution: transfer the molds to wax paper to use as reference when making the piece. Pay attention to the arrows on the measurement chart that indicate the direction of the work. Knit  front and back panels flat. Knit the armhole and neckline ribbing in the round. Back: cast-on 132 sts on the 3.00 mm circular needles, using Charme in the color white. Work bottom up, following chart 1. Work 10 rows using the white yarn. To create the straps, repeat the sequence as follows: 4 rows in the color Teal, 2 rows in the color White, 4 rows in the color Circulo red, 13 rows in the color White. Repeat the sequence between ** until you finish the panel. Once it measures 37 cm from the cast-on edge, start shaping the armholes, making the decreases every 2 rows: on each side, bind-off 7 sts (in 1 row), 5 sts (in 1 row), 3 sts (in 1 row), then 1 st (for 6 rows), ending up with 90 sts in total. Knit until it measures 49 cm from the cast-on edge, then start shaping the neckline. Place the 42 middle sts on a spare needle or scrap yarn and work with the 24 sts on each side separately, making the decreases on every row: on the neckline edge, decrease 2 sts on the RS and 1 st on the WS, for a total of 8 times (or 16 rows). Bind-off when the piece measures 55 cm from the cast-on edge and place it aside. Front: just like the back. Side seaming: Join the sides of the body (37 cm) with an invisible seam, using the tapestry needle and yarn colors according to the stripes. Armhole ribbing: using the color Teal and the 3.00 mm needles, pick up and knit 55 sts on the back, cast-on 35 sts on the shoulder (at the join between front and back panels), pick up and knit 55 more sts on the front. You should have 145 sts in total. Join the round by making a ssk with the first and last sts, ending up with 144 sts on the needles. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit 1x1 ribbing (B) following chart 2 for 7 rounds.  Cut the yarn, leaving a tail 3x longer than the armhole circumference and make a tubular bind-off, with the help of a tapestry needle. Make the second ribbing the same way. Neckline: using the color Teal and the 3.00 mm needles, pick up and knit 79 around the neckline on the back, 35 sts on the right side, 78 sts on the front, 35 sts on the left side; you should have 227 sts in total. Join the round by making a ssk with the first and last sts, ending up with 226 sts on the needles. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit the neckline in the round in 1x1 ribbing (B) following chart 2 for 7 rounds. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail 3x longer than the armhole circumference and make a tubular bind-off with the help of a tapestry needle. Designer: Samara Varela Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Glamour yarn by Circulo - 2 skeins G 4.00mm crochet hook Scissors Yarn needle Level of difficulty 07/04/2024 Abbreviations Ch - chain Sc - single crochet Sk - skip Rep - repeat Gauge is not necessary *It is HIGHLY recommended to block this piece before wearing to give it the proper shape Trellis Stitch Instructions - for top body part of dress Chain loosely Use a multiple of 4sts + 3 (Below is a guide for the base chain number depending on your size, however this may vary, so be sure to make adjustments if necessary) Small: Ch 130 Medium: Ch 134 Large: Ch 138 Extra Large: Ch 142 **After you make your base chain, wrap it around your chest and make adjustments if needed Row 1: 1 sc in the 6th ch from the hook, ch 5, sk 3 ch, 1 sc into the next ch, rep from to end, turn. Row 2: Ch 5, 1 sc into the next ch 5 sp, rep from to end, turn. Repeat Row 2 until desired length. Finish off. Fold in half longways and whip stitch together. Bottom Border Instructions Attach yarn in the back seam and ch 1 Round 1: 1 sc in the same st, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in the ch 5 sp, 1 sc in the next sc, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1. Round 2: 1 sc in the same st, ch 2, sk 1 sc and sk 1 hdc, 1 sc in the dc, ch 3, sl st in the first ch from the hook (picot made), 1 sc in the next dc, ch 2, sk 1 hdc and sk 1 sc, 1 sc in the next st, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the first sc. Finish off. Weave in ends. Strap Instructions - make two Ch 14 very loosely Row 1: (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the fourth ch from the hook, ch 4, sk 4, sl st into the next ch, ch 2, turn your piece to the wrong side, dc in each of the next 3 chs, ch 2, turn piece again back to the right side, work 1 dc in the first dc and the next 2 dc (diamond made). Ch 1, sk 4, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the last ch. Turn. Row 2: Sl st in the second dc and into the ch 2 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, ch 8, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the ch 2 sp between the clusters on the other side. Turn. Row 3 & 4: Repeat Row 2 Row 5: Sl st into the second dc and into the ch 2 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, ch 4, sc very loosely into the top loop of the diamond from Row 1, working over the 3 ch strings, ch 2, turn piece to wrong side, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 chs, ch 2, turn piece back to right side, work 1 dc in the first dc and the next 2 dc, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the ch 2 sp between the clusters on the other side. Turn. Repeat Row 2-5 until desired length, then move onto the finishing Row below.. For the sample in the picture, which is a size small, there are 7 diamonds total for one strap. Finishing Row: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 4, sl st to the top of the diamond, ch 4, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the ch 2 sp between the clusters on the other side. Finish off. I recommend blocking your pieces separately before attaching them together. Assembly Place straps in desired location along the top of the bodice and whip stitch in place. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...