02/12/2025 Level of difficulty Size: M   Materials: 3 skeins of Charme – Color: 3611 (Rubi); Knitting needles – 5.5 mm; Crochet hook – 3.0 mm.   Stitches used: garter stitch: k all sts every row.  Stockinette stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side. Reverse stockinette stitch: purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side.  Lace patterns: follow the corresponding chart. Chain (ch). Slip stitch  ( slst ): yo,  insert the hook through the st, draw the yarn through the st and the loop on the hook . Single crochet  ( SC ): insert the hook through the st,  yo, draw the loop, yo, draw it through both loops on the hook. Double crochet  ( DC ): yo,  insert the hook through the st, yo, draw the loop, yo, draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook, yo, draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the hook. Crochet trims : follow the corresponding charts .   Gauge: 10 x 10 cm square in lace pattern no. 2 with yarn held double, using 5.5 mm needles = 17 sts x 19 rows.   Instructions Back - Front and back are constructed in the same way and with the yarn held double. Cast-on 69 stitches on the 5.5 mm needles with the yarn held double and make 2 rows in garter stitch. Next, work in lace pattern no. 1, repeating the instructions between asterisks 7 times. At 4.7 in  from the beginning of the work, make 2 rows in garter stitch and begin working in lace pattern no. 2, repeating the instructions between asterisks 7 times as well. At 17.2 in from the beginning of the work, make 2 rows in garter stitch, making 9 evenly distributed decreases on the first row, then work in lace pattern no. 3, repeating the instructions between asterisks + edge stitches 17 times. At 21 in  from the beginning of the work, make 2 rows in garter stitch, then work in lace pattern no. 2, repeating the instructions between asterisks 6 times. At 25.7 in  from the beginning of the work, make 2 rows in garter stitch and bind-off all stitches.   Straps - Make 2 in the same way. Cast-on 6 stitches with yarn held double on 5.5 mm needles and work in garter stitch for 14 in , then bind-off all stitches.   Finishing– seam the sides of the piece. Seam the straps to the top edge of the dress, 6 cm away from the side seams (see the chart as reference). Make a trim around the neckline and the inside edge of the straps, following the trim no. 1 crochet chart and fasten-off. Make a trim around the bottom edge of the dress following the trim no. 2 crochet chart and fasten-off. Weave in all ends. Designer: Vitória Quintal Pattern translator: Beatriz Magalhães   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. If you're interested in this pattern in other sizes, please email us at patternsupport@circulo.com.br See more about...

Materials Círculo – Merino Sweet – 2 hanks 9052 (Heather). Círculo knitting needles – 4.5 mm.   Size:  M Level of difficulty 07/26/2024                      Stitches used Broken rib: 1st and all odd rows: k1, p1, k1 . 2nd and all even rows: p all sts.   Gauge – 10x10 cm square in broken rib, using 4.5 mm needles = 21 sts x 24 rows.   Execution – Back- cast-on 91 sts on the 4.5 needles and work in broken rib, following the instructions. When the piece measures 35 cm  from the cast-on edge, work as follows for the armholes: p2, k2, 83 sts in broken rib, k2, p2. Make 1 decrease 4 sts away from each edge, every 2nd row (21 times in total). Make the decreases on the left edge (when worn) with an SSK (slip 2 sts knitwise, place them back on the left needle, k2togtbl) and the ones on the right (when worn) with a k2tog. Bind-off all sts when the piece measures 55 cm  from the cast-on edge.   Front- work like the front until the piece measures 39 cm from the beginning of the work. Then, to start shaping the neckline, bind-off the middle st and work on each side separately. Right side -   k2, p2 on the edges and work the rest of the panel in broken rib. Make 1 decrease 4 sts away from each edge, every 2nd row (17 times in total). Bind-off all the remaining stitches when the piece measures 55 cm from the beginning. Left side –  repeat the instructions for the right side.   Finishing – Seam the shoulders and sides of the body.   Designer: Genessi Lehmann   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. If you're interested in this pattern in other sizes, please email us at atternsupport@circulo.com.br See more about...

Materials 2 balls of Anne (147g / 5.19 oz) or 4 balls of Anne (73g / 2.58 oz) – Color: 1317 (Solar); 2.5 mm Círculo crochet hk.; Tracing paper; Pencil; Scissors; Measuring tape; Colored markers. Size: 4                     08/02/2024 Level of difficulty                      Crochet stitches used: ch.:  chain stitch, sl st.:  slip stitch, sc.:  single crochet, 2 dc. tog.:  2 double crochets finished together in different base sts., pattern st.:  follow diag. 1, and edging:  follow diag 2.   Abbreviations: foll.:  follow or following, hk.: hook, alter.: alternately, inc.:  increases, diag.:  diagram, rnd.:  round, st.:  stitch, sts.: stitches, mot.:  motif or motifs, no.:  number, rep.:  repetition, fo.: fasten off, nxt.: next, and wk.:  work or working.   Sample: A 10 cm (3.94″) square in pattern st. using a 2.5 mm hk. = 11 mot. x 17 rows.   Instructions: Transfer the patterns to the tracing paper to use as a reference when making the piece. Note the arrows in the measurement diagram indicating the direction of the work.   Tunic: Use Anne yarn in Solar color and the 2.5 mm crochet hk. Start at the neckline and wk. all the piece in rounds.   Step 1 (yoke): Wk. a chain of 168 ch. sts. and 1 sl st. to close the ring. In this ring, wk. the yoke in pattern st. foll. diag. 1 and the rep. sts. from 1st to 23rd rnd. Follow the no. of mot. per rnd. as follows: Rnds. 1 and 2: 84 mot., rnd. 3: 106 mot., rnds. 4 and 5: 108 mot., rnd. 6: 124 mot., rnds. 7 and 8: 126 mot., rnds. 9 and 10: 146 mot., and rnd. 11: 158 mot. After finishing this part, use the markers and separate the sts. as follows: front (42 mot.) and each sleeve (37 mot.). Form the lower armhole of the sleeves by joining the yoke (front and back) at the sides with a chain of 10 ch. sts., forming the armhole opening. Look at the diagram with the blue star that shows this step.   Step 2: Body finishing: Wk. over the reserved sts. of the front and back yoke and over the side chains in pattern st. foll. diag. 1 and the rep. sts. from 1st to 26th rnd. Follow the no. of mot. per rnd. as follows: Rnds. 13 to 19: 92 mot., rnd. 20: 86 mot., and rnds. 21 to 25: 84 mot. Fo. the yarn.   Sleeve finishing: Wk. over the reserved sts. of the sleeve and over the side chains in pattern st. foll. diag. 1 and the rep. sts. from 1st to 10th rnd. Follow the no. of mot. per rnd. as follows: Rnds. 26 to 28: 56 mot., rnd. 29: 57 mot., rnd. 30: 58 mot. and fo. the yarn. Do the same to make the other sleeve.   Edging: Join the yarn to the initial chain of the yoke and wk. the edging foll. diag. 2 (84 mot.) and the rep. st. from 1st to 4th rnd. Fo. the yarn.   Artisan:  Angélica Schmitt   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. If you're interested in this pattern in other sizes, please email us at atternsupport@circulo.com.br See more about...

11/09/2024 Level of difficulty MATERIAL Circulo   Glamour yarn, 2, 2, 3 (3, 3, 3) 4, 4, 4 skeins color 4092 (salmon) 32 inches circular knitting needles nr. 7;  16-inches circular knitting nr 7 (or use 32-inches needle with magic loop) Tapestry needle to sew and hide ends   Abbreviations BOR: beginning of round k2tog: knit 2 stitches together MOR: middle of round p: purl RS: right side ssk: slip one stich as if to knit; slip another stitch as if to knit; insert left needle through the front strand of these two stitches and knit them together. A left-leaning decrease. st: stitch WS: wrong side Gauge 4" = 20 st × 27 rows with nr 7 needles and stockinette stitch Sizes: XS, S, M (L, XL, 2XL) 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) Tank-top chest circumference:  33½, 36, 38½ (41, 43½, 46) 48½, 51, 53½ inches To fit bust 32, 34½, 37 (39½, 42, 44½) 47, 49½, 52 inches Execution BODY Cast on 94, 100, 106 (112, 118, 126) 132, 138, 144 st on longer nr 7 needles. Put a MOR marker on the needle. Cast on more 94, 100, 106 (112, 118, 126) 132, 138, 144 st. Put a BOR marker and join to knit circularly. Take care to not twist your cast on. Knit 6 garter stitch rounds: Round 1:  k Round 2:  p Repeat these 2 rounds twice more. Change to stockinette st (k all rounds). When you reach 8½, 8½, 8½ (9, 9, 9) 9½, 9½, 9½ inches since CO, begin decreasing: Round 1:   k1, k2tog, k to 3 st to marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, repeat from . Round 2:  k. Repeat these 2 rounds 4 times more. Now you have a total of 168, 180, 192 (204, 216, 232) 244, 256, 268 st. K to 12, 12, 12 (12½, 12½, 12½) 13, 13, 13 inches since CO. Divide for front and back: Splitting round: BO 5 st, k to 5 st to marker, BO 5st, take off marker, repeat from Now you’ll work in stockinette st rows.   Back Row 1 (WS):  Turn work, BO 4st, p to end. Row 2 (RS):  BO 4 st, k to end. Row 3:  BO 3 st, p to end. Row 4:  BO 3 st, k to end. Row 5:  BO 2 st, p to end. Row 6:  BO 2 st, k to end. Row 7:  p Row 8:  k, ssk, k to 3 st to end, k2tog, k Row 9:  p Repeat rows 8 and 9 five times more. You’ll have 64, 70, 76 (82, 88, 96) 102, 108, 114 back st. Continue in stockinette st without decreases until 19, 19¼, 19½ (19¾, 20, 20¼) 20½, 20¾, 21 inches since CO. Next row (RS):  k Next row (WS):  p8, 8, 10 (10, 12, 12) 14, 14, 16, k48, 54, 56 (62, 64, 72) 74, 80, 82, p8, 8, 10 (10, 12, 12) 14, 14, 16. Repeat the last 2 rows. BO.   Front Row 1 (WS):  Turn work, BO 4st, p to end. Row 2 (RS):  BO 4 st, k to end. Row 3:  BO 3 st, p to end. Row 4:  BO 3 st, k to end Row 5:  BO 2 st, p34, 37, 40 (43, 46, 50) 53, 56, 59, k8, p36, 39, 42 (45, 48, 52) 55, 58, 61. Row 6:  BO 2 st, k to end. Row 7:  p34, 37, 40 (43, 46, 50) 53, 56, 59, k8, p34, 37, 40 (43, 46, 50) 53, 56, 59. Now you’ll divide for left and right side.   Left side Row 8 (RS):  k, ssk,  k 28, 31, 34 (37, 40, 44) 47, 50, 53, k2tog, k5, turn the work. Row 9 (WS):  k4, p to end. Row 10:  k, ssk,  k 26, 29, 32 (35, 38, 42) 45, 48, 51, k2tog, k5. Row 11:  k4, p to end. Row 12:  k, ssk,  k to 7 st to end, k2tog, k5, turn the work. Repeat rows 11 and 12 until you have 8, 8, 10 (10, 12, 12) 14, 14, 16 st. Next row:  k4, p to end. Next row:  k. Repeat these last two rows until you reach 19½, 19¾, 20 (20¼, 20½, 20¾) 21, 21¼, 21½ inches from CO. BO.   Right side Row 8 (RS):  k5, ssk,  k 28, 31, 34 (37, 40, 44) 47, 50, 53, k2tog, k1. Row 9 (WS):  p to last 4 st, k4. Row 10:  k5, ssk,  k 26, 29, 32 (35, 38, 42) 45, 48, 51, k2tog, k1. Row 11:  p to last 4 st, k4. Row 12:  k5, ssk,  k to 7 st to end, k2tog, k1, turn the work. Repeat rows 11 and 12 until you have 8, 8, 10 (10, 12, 12) 14, 14, 16 st. Next row:  p to last 4 st, k4. Next row:  k. Repeat these last two rows until you reach 19½, 19¾, 20 (20½, 20½, 20¾) 21¼, 21¼, 21½ i nches from CO. BO.   Sew shoulders.   Armholes With shorter nr. 7 circular needle or the longer one using magic loop, and beginning at bottom center, pick up and knit around the armhole: 1 st for each BO st, 1 st for each 2 rows of subsequent rows. Join to work in the round. Round 1:  k Round 2:  p Repeat these two rounds twice more (3 garter ridges total). BO.   Repeat for other armhole. Use tapestry needle to hide ends securely. Designer:  Beatriz Medina Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

02/11/2025 Level of difficulty Placemat Size:  47 x 32 cm / 18.5 x 12.6 inches Coaster: 9 x 10 cm / 3.5 x 3.9 inches   Materials: 1 Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 (400 g / 14 oz) yarn roll – Colors: #3402 (Círculo Red) & #8001 (White); Crochet Hook – 3.5 mm.   Gauge: A 10 cm / 4 inches square in sc., made with Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 and a 3.5 mm hook = 17 sts. x 18 rows.   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations:  st. (Stitch), sts. (Stitches), r./rnd. (Row/Round), ch. (Chain), sl st. (Slip Stitch), sc. (Single Crochet), wc st. (Waistcoat Stitch), BL sc. (Back Loop Single Crochet), dc. (Double Crochet), BL hdc. (Back Loop Half Double Crochet), tr. (Treble Crochet), crab st. (Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet), Magic Ring.   Instructions The placemat uses the tapestry crochet technique. In this technique, work with 2 or more strands in the same row, changing colors according to the chart. To change colors, pull through the last 2 loops on the hook with the new color, and carry the other strand over the previous row, hiding it between the stitches of the new color.   Chart 1 With the White yarn, start with 82 ch. + 1 ch. to turn the work. R1: Start in the 2nd ch. from the hook, work: 82 sc. R2 to 5: Start with 1 ch., 82 sc. R6: Join the Círculo Red yarn and lay it over the base row. With the White yarn, start with 1 ch., work 24 sc., change to the Círculo Red yarn, 1 sc., change back to the White yarn, 57 sc. Keep following chart 1, working in back-and-forth rows, making the appropriate color changes. Fasten off the Círculo Red yarn and set the White yarn aside, for the finishing. Make 2 identical pieces.   Chart 2 – Finishing Continue with the White yarn from chart 1. R1: In the corner, start with 1 ch., then work 1 crab st. for each base st. Close with sl st. Fasten off the yarn. Work on both pieces in the same way.   Chart 3 – Coaster With the Círculo Red yarn, start with a magic ring. R1: Start with 3ch.; Inside the magic ring, work: 2 dc., 2 ch. (corner space), 3 dc., 2 ch, (corner space) , repeat from to 2x more. Close with sl st. R2: Work sl sts. in the next 2 sts. until you reach the base ch. space. Start with 3 ch., 2 dc., 2 ch., 3 dc. in the same base space, 1 ch. (space), skip 3 sts., in the next base ch. space, work 3 dc., 2 ch., 3 dc. in the same space, 1 ch., skip 3 sts. ,  repeat from to 2x more. Close with sl st. R3: Work sl sts. in the next 4 sts. until you reach the 2 corner chains. Work 1 sc., skip 3 base sts., in the chain space work (1 tr., 1 ch. for space), repeat 5x more, and finish with 1 tr. in the same base space, skip 3 sts., repeat from to * 1x more. Fasten off the yarn. Keep following chart 3, working in circular rounds, making the appropriate color changes. Fasten off the yarns. Make 2 identical pieces. Designer:  Anita Eskelsen   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

02/10/2025 Level of difficulty Approximate size: 22 cm / 8.7 inches   Materials: 1 Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn ball – Colors: #7564 (Porcelain) & #7625 (Chestnut); 1 Amigurumi yarn ball – Color: #5741 (Perroquet); 1 Anne yarn roll – Colors: #1317 (Solar) & #3131 (Bubble Gum); Amigurumi yarn scraps – Colors: #8001 (White), #7569 (Brownie) & #8990 (Black); Safety eyes (10 mm) – Black; Safety nose (10 mm) – Black; Crochet hooks – 2.0 mm, 3.0 mm & 3.5 mm; Tapestry needle; Polyester stuffing; Mini pearls (optional).   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations:  Increase = inc.; Triple Increase = incT.; Chain = ch.; Decrease = dec.; Slip Stitch = sl st.; Single Crochet = sc.; Popcorn Stitch with 3 Double Crochets = pop. st.; Place marker = pm.; End of Round = eor.   Instructions Head With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4: 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; R5: 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 30 sc.; R6: 4 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 36 sc.; R7: 5 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 42 sc.; R8: 6 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 48 sc.; R9 to 16 (8 rounds): 48 sc.; Place the safety eyes between rounds 13 & 14, with 8 stitches between them. R17: 6 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 42 sc.; R18: 5 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 36 sc.; R19: 4 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 30 sc.; R20: 3 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 24 sc. R21: 2 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 18 sc.; R22: 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc. Stuff the piece. R23: 6 dec. = 6 sc. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring. Embroider the sides of the eyes with the  Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White)  and the top part with the Amigurumi yarn #8990 (Black) . Embroider the eyebrows with the Amigurumi yarn #7569 (Brownie) on rounds 9 & 10, diagonally, with a width of 4 stitches.   Snout With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7564 (Porcelain) and 3.5 mm hook Make 5 ch. R1: Skip 1 ch., 3 sc., 1 incT. in the last ch., on the other side of the foundation ch.: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 10 sc.; R2: 1 inc., 2 sc., 3 inc., 2 sc., 2 inc. = 16 sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc., 2 sc., (1 sc., 1 inc.) 3x, 2 sc., (1 sc., 1 inc.) 2x = 22 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Place the safety nose centrally between rounds 2 & 3. Embroider the line and the smile with the Amigurumi yarn #8990 (Black). Sew between rounds 15 & 20 of the head.   Ears (2) With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4 & 5: 18 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew between rounds 6 & 11 of the head.   Body With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4: 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; R5: 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 30 sc.; R6: 4 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 36 sc.; R7: 5 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 42 sc.; R8: 6 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 48 sc.; R9 to 17 (9 rounds): 48 sc.; R18: 6 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 42 sc.; R19: 5 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 36 sc.; R20: 10 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 33 sc.; R21: 9 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 30 sc.; R22: 8 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 27 sc.; R23: 7 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 24 sc. Stuff the piece. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing.   Arms (2) With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4 to 7 (4 rounds): 18 sc.; R8: 5 sc., 4 dec., 5 sc. = 14 sc.; R9: 5 sc., 2 dec., 5 sc. = 12 sc.; R10 to 17 (8 rounds): 12 sc. Place stuffing until just above halfway up the arm. Fold in half and close the sides with 6 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew them at an angle on the body, between rounds 20 & 23.   Legs (2) With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4: 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; R5 to 8 (4 rounds): 24 sc.; R9: 6 sc., 6 dec., 6 sc. = 18 sc.; R10: 6 sc., 3 dec., 6 sc. = 15 sc.; R11 to 18 (10 rounds): 15 sc. Place stuffing until just above halfway up the leg. Fold in half and close the sides with 7 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew between rounds 9 & 10 of the body.To make the leg firmer, sew the sides of the legs to round 8 of the body.   Tail With the Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn color #7625 (Chestnut) and 3.5 mm hook R1: 6 sc. inside the magic ring; R2: 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; R3: 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; R4: 18 sc.; R5: 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Stuff the piece. Sew between rounds 9 & 11 of the body.   Tiara Strap With the Amigurumi yarn color #5741 (Perroquet) and 3.0 mm hook Make 58 ch. and close in a circle with sl st. Fasten off.   Flowers (4) With the Anne yarn color #1317 (Solar) and 2.0 mm hook R1 (inside the magic ring): (2 ch., 1 pop st., 2 ch., 2 sl st.) 5x. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew a mini pearl in the center of the flower (optional), then sew it onto the tiara strap. Make two flowers with color #1317 (Solar)  e and two more with color  #3131 (Bubble Gum).     Created by: Juliana Penhorate (@amigujumi) Pattern review by: Patty Wolf   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

02/08/2025 Level of difficulty Size: 44 x 44 cm   / 17 x 17 inches   Materials: 2 Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 (400 g / 14 oz) yarn rolls – Color: #8001 (White); 1 Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 (200 g / 7 oz) yarn roll – Color: #3635 (Passion); Crochet hook – 4.0 mm; 1 fabric pillow measuring 44 x 44 cm / 17 x 17 inches or polyester fiber to fill the cushion cover.   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations:  st. (Stitch), sts. (Stitches), r./rnd. (Row/Round), ch. (Chain), sl st. (Slip Stitch), sc. (Single Crochet), dc. (Double Crochet).   Yield:  3 rolls of Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 (400 g / 14 oz each) – Color: #8001 (White), make 2 pieces.    Instructions The cushion cover uses the tapestry crochet technique. In this technique, work with 2 or more strands in the same row, changing colors according to the chart. To change colors, pull through the last 2 loops on the hook with the new color, and carry the other strand over the previous row, hiding it between the stitches of the new color.   Chart 1 With the White yarn, start with 73 ch. R1 to 18: Start with 1 ch., 72 sc. R19: Join the Passion yarn and lay it over the base row. With the White yarn, start with 1 ch., work 35 sc., change to the Passion yarn, 1 sc., change back to the White yarn, 36 sc. Keep following chart 1, working in back-and-forth rows, making the appropriate color changes. Make 2 identical pieces.   Chart 2 – Finishing Join the Passion yarn in one of the corners. Work by joining the 2 pieces (front part to the back part). R1: In the corner, start with 3 ch., 2 dc. in the same base st., skip 3 base sts., 1 sc., 2 ch., 2 dc. in the same base st., skip 3 sts. , repeat from to around the entire piece, joining the front and back parts. Before joining the last side, insert the stuffing into the cover. Finish the joining. Close with sl st., and fasten off the yarn. Designer:  Anita Eskelsen   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

02/05/2025 Level of difficulty Approximate size: 7.5” (standing) and 6” (sitting).   Materials: 1 Amigurumi Soft yarn ball in each color - Colors: #7096 (Craft), #7311 (Tobacco), #3542 (Love) and 1706 (#Flakes); 1 Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn ball – Color: #2194 (Turquoise); 1 Cléa yarn skein – Color: Black; Crochet hook – 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm; Knitting needle – 4.0 mm; Tapestry needle; Safety eyes (12 mm) – Brown; Safety nose (No. 12) – Black; Polyester stuffing fiber; Thick hot glue stick – 2.7”; Black galvanized wire – 15”; Craft glue; Sewing needle and Círculo invisible thread; 0.4-inch thick EVA foam: circle with a 1-inch diameter; Locking stitch marker.   Stitch Glossary and Abbreviations:  Increase = inc.; Triple Increase = incT.; Chain = ch.; Decrease = dec.; Triple Drecrease = decT.; Half Double Crochet = hdc.; Single Crochet = sc.; Back Post Single Crochet (insert the hook from the back, passing between the two stitches of the previous rnd. and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook — the stitch made forms a 90-degree angle with the previous rnd.) = BPsc.; End of round/row = eor.; Place marker = pm.   Instructions Arms (2) With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7096 (Craft) and 2.5mm hook 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; 4 & 5- 18 sc.; 6- 3 sc., 6 dec., 3 sc. = 12 sc.; 7- 4 sc., 2 dec., 4 sc. = 10 sc.; 8 to 17 (10 rounds)- 10 sc. Stuff it halfway.Make more 4 sc. to bring the yarn to the side. Fold in half and close the sides with 5 sc. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring. With the  Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco),  embroider the “toes” on rounds 3 and 4, 3 on each foot. Legs (2) With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7096 (Craft) and 2.5mm hook 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; 4- 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; 5 to 7 (3 rounds)- 24 sc.; 8- 6 sc., 6 dec., 6 sc. = 18 sc.; 9- 3 sc., 6 dec., 3 sc. = 12 sc.; 10 to 14 (5 rounds)- 12 sc.Stuff it. Make more 3 sc. to bring the yarn to the side. Fold in half and close the sides with 6 sc. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring, leaving a yarn tail for sewing.   Smaller paw pads (6)With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco) and 2.5mm hook 1- 6  sc. inside of a magic ring. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew 3 pieces onto each leg. Bigger paw pads (2)With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco) and 2.5mm hook 1- Inside of a magic ring, work: 2 sc., 4 hdc., 2 sc. = 8 stitches. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew one piece onto each leg, centered with the other 3 smaller pieces. Body With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7096 (Craft) and 2.5mm hook 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; 4- 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; 5- 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 30 sc.; 6- 4 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 36 sc.; 7- 5 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 42 sc.; 8- 6 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 48 sc.; 9- 7 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 54 sc.; 10 to 21 (12 rounds)- 54 sc.; 22- 7 sc., 1 dec. = 48 sc.; 23- 6 sc., 1 dec. = 42 sc.; 24- 5 sc., 1 dec. = 36 sc.; 25- 4 sc., 1 dec. = 30 sc. On the next round, join the arms. 26- 6 sc. in the body, 5 sc. in the left arm with the body, 8 sc. in the body, 5 sc. in the right arm with the body, 6 sc. = 30 sc.; Stuff it. Move on to the head. Head Continue with Amigurumi Soft yarn #7096 (Craft) and 2.5mm hook 1- 30 inc. = 60 sc.; 2 to 16 (15 rounds)- 60 sc.; Insert the hot glue stick, half inside the body and half in the head. 17- 8 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 54 sc.; 18- 7 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 48 sc.; 19- 6 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 42 sc.; 20- 5 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 36 sc. Add some stuffing. 21- 4 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 30 sc.; 22- 3 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 24 sc.; 23- 2 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 18 sc.; 24- 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc. Finish stuffing. 25- 6 dec. = 6 sc. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring. Sew the legs ss shown in the picture. Snout With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco) and 2.5mm hook Go up 8 ch, 1- Skip the 1st ch., 6 sc., 1 incT. in the last ch. On the other side of the ch.: 5 sc., 1 inc. in the same base stitch as the 1st sc. = 16 sc.; 2ª- 1 inc., 5 sc., 3 inc., 5 sc., 2 inc. = 22 sc.; 3- 10 sc., 1 inc., 10 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; 4- 11 sc., 1 inc., 11 sc., 1 inc. = 26 sc. Place the safety nose between rounds 2 and 3, well centered. Before locking, embroider the mouth with  black Cléa thread. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew onto the head on rounds 4 to 9, add some stuffing. Eye patches (2) With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco) and 2.5mm hook 1- 8 sc. inside fo a magic ring. Close the magic ring. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing.Make the second patch, insert the safety eye and close the magic ring. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. On the first patch, embroider the closed/winking eye with black Cléa thread.Sew onto the head right next to the snout, between rounds 8 and 13.Shape the glasses with black wire and place them close to the snout. Ears (2) With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7311 (Tobacco) and 2.5mm hook Go up 6 ch., skip the 1st one. 1 to 4 (4 rounds)- 5 sc., 1 ch. (Turn); 5- 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec.  (Turn)  = 3 sc.; 6- 3 sc., 1 ch. (Turn); 7- 1 decT.Make a round of sc. all around the piece. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew onto the head between rounds 17 and 18. Tail With Amigurumi Soft yarn #7096 (Craft) and 2.5mm hook 1- 5 sc. inside fo a magic ring; 2 to 8 (7 rounds)- 5 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew to the back of the body over round 10, centered.Sew the end to form a doughnut shape.   Cup With Amigurumi yarn #3542 (Love) and 2.5mm hook 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 18 sc.; 4- 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 24 sc.; 5- 24 BPsc.; 6 to 10 (5 rounds)- 24 sc.; 11- FLO: 24 sc.; 12- 24 sc. Fasten off. Glue the EVA foam at the bottom with craft glue. Drink/Milk With Amigurumi yarn #1706 (Flakes) and 2.5mm hook Attach the yarn into one of the loops left over from rnd. 10. 1- 24 sc., taking the apparent loops; 2- 2 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 18 sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc. Add stuffing inside of the cup. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring. Cup handle With Amigurumi yarn #3542 (Love) and 2.5mm hook Attach the yarn into round 4 of the cup. Work in back-and-forth rows. 1 to 7 (7 rounds)- 3 sc., 1 ch. (TURN); 8- 3 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Sew onto round 12 of the cup. With a sewing needle and invisible thread, sew the cup to the end of the arms. Scarf With Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn #2194 (Turquoise) and knitting needle 4.0mm Cast-on 8 stitches.1 to 74 (74 rows)- 8 k.Bind-off the stitches. Cap With Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn #2194 (Turquoise) and knitting needle 4.0mm Cast-on 8 stitches. 1 to 56 (56 rows)- 8 k. Bind off the stitches, leaving yarn to sew the sides and gather the top. Ball Cap With Amigurumi Pelúcia yarn #2194 (Turquoise) and crochet hook 3.5mm 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3 & 4- 12 sc.; 5- 6 dec. = 6 sc. Add some stuffing. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring. Sew at the top of the cap.   Created by:  Kelly Stopassoli (@kellyamigurumi) Pattern review by:  Patty Wolf   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

01/29/2025 Level of difficulty Size:  106 x 106 cm (41.7″ x 41.7″)   Materials: Círculo yarns 1 ball of Natural Cotton Multicolor Premium (400 g / 14.1 oz) – Colors: 9881 (Copper) and 9201 (Floresta) 2 balls of Natural Cotton 4/6 – Color: 20 (Natural) Crochet hook – 3.5 mm   Abbreviations: rnd: round, ch:  Chain Stitch,  st:  stitch,  sl st:  Slip Stitch,  sc:  Single Crochet,   dc: Double Crochet.   Instructions Flower (Make 4):  Using yarn 9881 (Copper), ch 6, close into a ring with 1 sl st, and continue following the diagram 1 or pattern below. Rnd 1: ch 4, 1 dc, ch 1 7x into the ring; close all the rnds with 1 sl st. Rnd 2: ch 3, 3 dc in the ch, turn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, turn, ch 5, 4 dc in the next ch, turn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, turn, ch 5 7x. Motif with flower: Using yarn 9201 (Floresta), follow diagram 2 around the flower.   Note the yarn color change on the diagram. Join the motifs with sl st in the last rnd of the diagram as shown in the assembly diagram. Surround: 5 rnds using yarn 20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn #9881 (Copper), 1 rnd using yarn 20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn 9881 (Copper), 1 rnd using yarn 20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn 9881 (Copper), 9 rnds using yarn 20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn 9881 (Copper), 1 rnd using yarn 20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn 9881 (Copper), 1 rnd using yarn #20 (Natural), 1 rnd using yarn 9881 (Copper), and 1 rnd using yarn 20 (Natural) to finish. Follow diagram 3.   Edging: Using yarn 9881 (Copper), follow diagram 4 around the piece .   Artisan: Norma Spengler Translation: Isabela Tavares   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

01/29/2025 Level of difficulty Approximate size:  6.7” height, 11” length, and 20.7” circumference.   Materials: 1 Amigurumi yarn ball – Colors: #7220 (Dates) & #8001 (White); Crochet hook – 3.0 mm; Polyester stuffing; Tapestry needle; Stitch marker.   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: Increase = inc.; Decrease = dec.; Single Crochet = sc.; Place Marker = pm.; End Of Round = eor. Instructions Ball With the Amigurumi yarn #7220 (Dates) 1- 7 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 7 inc. = 14 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 21 sc.; 4- 21 sc.; 5- 2 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 28 sc.; 6- 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 35 sc.; 7- 4 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 42 sc.; 8- 5 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 49 sc.; 9- 49 sc.; 10- 6 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 56 sc. Change to the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) 11- 56 sc.; 12- 7 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 63 sc.; 13- 63 sc.; 14- 8 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 70 sc.; 15- 70 sc. Change to the Amigurumi yarn #7220 (Dates) 16- 9 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 77 sc.; 17- 77 sc.; 18- 10 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 84 sc.; 19- 84 sc.; 20- 11 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 91 sc.; 21- 91 sc.; 22- 12 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 98 sc.; 23- 98 sc.; 24- 13 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 105 sc.; 25- 105 sc.; 26- 14 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 112 sc.; 27 to 30 (4 rounds)- 112 sc.; 31- 15 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 119 sc.; 32- 119 sc.; 33- 16 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 126 sc.; 34- 126 sc.; 35- 17 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 133 sc.; 36 to 39 (4 rounds)- 133 sc.; 40- 18 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 140 sc.; 41 to 54 (14 rounds)- 140 sc.; 55- 18 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 133 sc.; 56 to 59 (4 rounds)- 133 sc.; 60- 17 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 126 sc.; 61- 126 sc.; 62- 16 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 119 sc.; 63- 119 sc.; 64- 15 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 112 sc.; 65 to 68 (4 rounds)- 112 sc.; 69- 14 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 105 sc.; 70- 105 sc.; 71- 13 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 98 sc.; 72- 98 sc.; 73- 12 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 91 sc.; 74- 91 sc.; 75- 11 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 84 sc.; 76- 84 sc.; 77- 10 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 77 sc.; 78- 77 sc. Change to the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) 79- 9 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 70 sc.; 80- 70 sc.; 81- 8 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 63 sc.; 82- 63 sc.; 83- 7 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 56 sc. Stuff the piece. Change to the Amigurumi yarn #7220 (Dates) 84- 56 sc.; 85- 6 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 49 sc.;  86- 49 sc.; 87- 5 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 42 sc.; 88- 4 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 35 sc.; 89- 3 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 28 sc.; 90- 2 sc., 1 dec. to eor  = 21 sc.; 91- 21 sc.; 92- 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 14 sc. Finish stuffing the piece. 93- 7 dec. = 7 sc. Fasten off with a reverse magic ring.   Larger Seam With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Leave a yarn tail of approximately 12 inches at the beginning. Go up 26 ch., skip the 1st one. 1- 25 sc., 1 ch. (TURN); 2- 25 sc. Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail of approximately 12 inches at the end. Sew it centered on the ball.   Smaller Seams (7) With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Leave a yarn tail of approximately 6 inches at the beginning. Make 7 ch. Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail of approximately 6 inches at the end. Sew over the larger seam, dividing the space between them equally.   Created by: Kelly Stopassoli (@kellyamigurumi) Pattern review by: Patty Wolf Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

01/22/2025 Level of difficulty Size: 69" x 22.5"   Materials: 4 balls of Natural Maxcolor 4/6 in each color 3334 (Tulip) and 7727 (Persimmon); Crochet hook E/3.5 mm; Scissors; Tapestry needle.   Stitch glossary and abbreviations: stitch : st; make : mk; skip : sk; chain : ch; slip st : sl st; single crochet : sc; half double crochet : hdc; double crochet : dc; increase : inc; decrease : dec; round : rnd; end of row/rnd: eor.; dtr =Yo hook 3 times, crochet hook  in st, yo, draw lp through, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times; Front post dtr : FPdtr; Back post dtr : BPdtr.   Gauge: 17 dc x 6 R = 4"/10 cm   Instructions Chart 1 Start with color 7727 (Persimmon). Ch 94 + 3 to turn. Crochet back and forth. R1: start at the 4th chain from hook, 1 dc, (ch 1 (space), sk 1 base st, 4 dc) rep 17 more times, ch 1, sk 1 base st, 2 dc. R2: ch 3, 1 dc, (ch 1 (space), sk 1 base st, 4 dc) rep 17 more times, ch 1, sk 1 base st, 2 dc. R3: ch 3, 1 dc, (1 FPdtr into the fourth st of the block with 4 dc of R1, 4 dc) rep 17 more times, ch 1, sk 1 base st, 2 dc. Cut yarn. R4: join color 3334 (Tulip) in the last base st of row below (work this row in the wrong side): ch 3, 1 dc, (1 BPdtr into the fourth st of the block with 4 dc of R2, insert hook below the FPdtr of R3 to cross stitches, 4 dc) rep 17 more times, ch 1, sk 1 base st, 2 dc. Cut yarn. Continue following chart 1. Once chart is completed, cut color 3334 (Tulip) and continue working with color 7727 (Persimmon).   Chart 2 - Fringes Work only in the short ends. Crochet back and forth. Continue with color 7727 (Persimmon). R1: ch 1, 1 sc in each base st across. R2: ch 1, 1 sc in each base st across. R3: ch 51, close ring with 1 sl st into the first chain, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc of the base, ch 50, close ring with 1 sl st in the same base st rep from to across. Fasten off. Do the same on the other side. Fasten off and weave in ends.   Created by Heloisa Mazoni   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Level of difficulty Sizes XS, S, M (L, XL, XXL, XXXL) Sweater chest circunference: 34½, 37¾, 41 (44, 47¼, 50¼, 53½) To fit bust 31½, 34¾, 38 (41, 44¼, 47¼, 50½)   Material Sizes XS, S: 4 skeins Circulo Aloe Vera color Gray Sizes M, X, XL: 5 skeins Circulo Aloe Vera color Gray Sizes XXL, XXXL: 6 skeins Circulo Aloe Vera color Gray Círculo circular needles – nr. 9, 16" long; nr. 9, 32" long Cable needle. Some scrap yarn to hold stitches. Tapestry  needle to put stitches on scrap yarn and to hide ends.   Gauge: 4” = 16 st × 21 rounds Created by: Círculo Studio Disclaimer : Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

01/15/2025 Level of difficulty   Materials: F/5 - 3.75mm Crochet Hook 7 skeins Sugar Cane Yarn - DK weight Scissors Yarn Needle Blocking Mat and Pins   Notes ●     If you desire to make a longer coverup, you will need to make more squares and longer chevron panels. ●     The square panels remain the same size for each size, however it is the chevron pieces that are increased per size. For reference, the model in the picture is 5’10” and usually wears a size 4 in women. Keep in mind there is a lot of stretch to crochet. ●     This piece should be blocked. It is HIGHLY recommended as it will lengthen the garment quite nicely. Steam blocking with an iron works really well. I recommend blocking once you have completed the coverup. Lace Square Instructions - Make  24 Lace Square Measurement is 3.75” Ch 6, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Round 1: Ch 3, dc2tog into the ring (counts as a bobble), [ch 3, dc3tog (bobble st made) into the ring] 7 times, ch 3, sl st to the top of the 1st bobble. Round 2: Sl st into the ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 sc into the same sp, [ch 5, 1 sc into the next sp] 7 times, ch 2, 1 dc into the 1st sc. Round 3: Ch 5, [bobble, ch 3, bobble] into the next sp *, ch 5, 1 sc into the next sp; rep from twice and from to ** again, ch 2, 1 dc into the dc that closed round 2. Round 4: Ch 5, 1 sc into the next sp, ch 5, [1 sc, ch 5, 1 sc] into the corner ch-3 sp, ch 5, 1 sc into the next ch-5 sp; rep from 3 more times, ending the last rep into the dc that closed round 3. Sl st to the first ch. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Sew 6 squares together forming a strip - do this 4 times so you will have 4 strips - two for the front and two for the back. Chevron front and back center piece- make 2 S (M, L) Ch 29 (37, 45) Row 1: 2 dc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 9 (13,17) chs, dc3tog twice, 1 dc in each of the next 9 (13, 17) chs, 3 dc in the last ch. Turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 9 (13,17) sts, dc3tog twice, 1 dc in the next 9 (13, 17) sts, 3 dc in the top of the turning ch. Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 39 rows altogether Now assemble one chevron strip and two lace square strips. Whip stitch the lace square strips to each side of the chevron strip. Do this for both the front and the back. Once completed, you will add the straps before you work on the side pieces.    Straps Insert hook and yarn in the center outer loop of the Lace Square on the front of your garment. Ch 45. On the back of your garment, you are going to join this foundation ch by placing a sc in the same loop on the adjoining square, then you will place 1 sc in each st back towards the front where you started. Join with a sl st back into the same loop on the square. Repeat on the other side. Slip over your head to make sure the fit is right, and then adjust accordingly. Chevron side piece - make 2 S (M, L) Ch 37 (45, 53) Row 1: 2 dc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 dc in each of the next 13 (17, 21) chs, dc3tog twice, 1 dc in each of the next 13 (17, 21) chs, 3 dc in the last ch. Turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 13 (17, 21) sts, dc3tog twice, 1 dc in the next 13 (17, 21) sts, 3 dc in the top of the turning ch. Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 39 rows altogether Whip stitch the chevron side pieces in place. Top Border Instructions Starting with one of the armholes, attach yarn in the first st on the right hand corner of the chevron side piece. Ch 1. Round 1: 1 sc in each st along the chevron piece until 2 sts before you reach the center, (sc dec over the next two sts) twice. 1 sc in each st evenly around, up the strap and back to the beginning sc. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc dec over the first two sts, 1 sc in each st until you reach 2 sts before the center of the chevron side piece, (sc dec over the next two sts) twice. 1 sc in each st until you reach the last two sts of the chevron piece, 1 sc dec over the next two sts. 1 sc in each st around until you reach the end of the round. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Finish off, weave in ends. Repeat on the other armhole. Now attach yarn along any sts on the neck line. Ch 1. Round 1: 1 sc evenly around the entire neckline and straps. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. Finish off, weave in ends. Bottom Border Instructions Attach yarn in any stitch along the bottom of the garment. Ch 2. Round 1: 1 hdc in each st around, however, when you come to the point of the chevron pieces, you will place (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the center space, and when you reach the center edge of a lace square you will place (1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1 hdc) in the space. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, however, when you reach the ch 1 spaces you made in the previous row, you will place (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc. Finish off, weave in ends. Block your garment, then add fringe. I did three strands together for each fringe. Belt Instructions - this is so you can wrap it twice around you but add more or less if needed Ch 300, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Finish off. Weave in ends. Crochet Pattern by Hands of Zeal Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. 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01/08/2025 Level of difficulty Sizes:  XS, S, M, (L, XL, 2XL) 3XL, 4XL, 5XL To fit bust:  34", 36", 38" (40", 42", 44") 46", 48", 50" Ease:  2½"   Materials: 9, 10, 10 (12,12,13) 15,15,17 skeins of Aloe Vera - Color: 3402; 1 pair of nr 9 needles; Tapestry needle; 4 stitch holders.   Abbreviations: BS: k1 at the beginning and end of every row; k = knit; k2tog = knit 2 stitches together. A right-leaning decrease; st = stitch, stitches; p = purl; RS = right side; ssk: slip one stitch as if to knit; slip another stitch as if to knit; insert left needle through the front ;strand of these two stitches and knit them together. A left-leaning decrease; WS = wrong side; yo = yarn over the needle.   Gauge: 4” = 17 st × 24 rows.   Instructions Body (make 2, one for the front, another for the back) Cast on 81, 87, 90 (96, 99, 102) 108, 114, 120 st (always a multiple of 3) Setup Row 1:  k Setup Row 2:  BS, p to last st, BS. Row 1 (RS):  BS, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 2 st, k1, BS. Row 2 and all even rows (WS):  BS, p to last st, BS. Row 3:  repeat row 1 Rows 5 and 7:  BS, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat once from , k to last 8 st, repeat twice from *, k1, BS. Repeat these 8 rows once. Then repeat rows 1 to 4. Put a removable marker at the beginning and end of the last row.   Next 8 rows: Row 1:  BS, k to last st, BS. Row 2 and all even rows (WS):  BS, p to last st, BS. Row 3:  repeat row 1 Rows 5 and 7:  BS, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 2 st, k1, BS. Repeat these last 8 rows 4, 4, 4 (5, 5, 5) 6, 6, 6 times more; then repeat rows 1 and 2.   Armholes: Setup row 1:  BO 5 st, k1, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k to last 13 st, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, k6. Setup row 2:  BO 5 st, p to last st, BS. Now, shape the raglan armhole: Row 1:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, ssk, k1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 12 st, k2, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 2 and all even rows from now on (WS):  BS, k1, p4, k2, p to last 8 st, k2, p4, k1, BS. Row 3:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 11 st, k3, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 5:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, ssk, k to last 10 st, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 7:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k to last 8 st, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 9:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, ssk, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 10 st, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 11:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 9 st, k1, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 13:  Repeat row 5. Row 15:  Repeat row 7. Row 17:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, ssk, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 11 st, k1, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 19:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 10 st, k2, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Row 21:  repeat row 5. Row 23:  repeat row 7.   Only for Size XS: Repeat rows 1 to 18. Next RS row:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, ssk1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, repeat from to last 10 st, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Next RS row:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size S: Repeat rows 1 to 24. Next 2 RS rows:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size M Repeat rows 1 to 22. Next 3 RS rows:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size L and XL Repeat rows 1 to 22. New Row 23:  repeat row 5. Row 25:  repeat row 17. Row 27:  repeat row 9. Row 29:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size 2XL Repeat rows 1 to 22. New Row 23:  repeat row 5. Row 25:  repeat row 17. Row 27:  repeat row 9. Next 3 RS rows:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size 3 XL Repeat rows 1 to 14. New Row 15:  repeat row 5. New Row 17:  repeat row 9. New Row 19:  repeat row 1. New Rows 21 and 23:  repeat row 5. Row 25:  repeat row 17. Row 27:  repeat row 9. Next 3 RS rows:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size 4XL Repeat rows 1 to 10. New Row 11:  repeat row 1. New Rows 13 and 15:  repeat row 5. New Row 17:  repeat row 17. New Row 19:  repeat row 9. New Rows 21 and 23:  repeat row 5. Row 25:  repeat row 9. Row 27:  repeat row 1. Next 4 RS rows:  repeat row 5.   Only for Size 5XL New Row 1:  repeat row 1. New Row 3:  repeat row 17. New Rows 5 and 7:  repeat row 5. New Row 9:  repeat row 17. New Row 11:  repeat row 9. New Rows 13 and 15:  repeat row 5. New Row 17:  repeat row 9. New Row 19:  repeat row 1. New Rows 21 and 23:  repeat row 5. Row 25:  repeat row 1. Row 27:  repeat row 17. Rows 29 and 31:  repeat row 5. Row 33:  repeat row 17. Row 35:  repeat row 9. Rows 37 and 39:  repeat row 5.   Put all 45, 49, 52 (52, 55, 56) 58, 60, 60 stitches on hold. Cut the yarn.   Sleeves (Make 2) Cast on 41, 47, 53 (59, 65, 71) 77, 83, 89 st. Setup row 1:  BS, p1, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p2, k to last 8 st, p2, k1, yo, p2, pass yo over 2 purled st, k1, p1, BS. Setup row 2 (and all WS rows from now):  BS, k1, p4, k2, p to last 8 st, k2, p4, k1, BS. Repeat all rows from Row 1 of Body Armholes, except for Size XS. Only for Size XS: Work first 44 rows as for Body Armholes. Next 3 RS rows:  repeat row 7. Put all 19, 19, 25 (25, 31, 35) 37, 39, 39 stitches on hold. Cut yarn.   High collar Sew each of the 2 sleeves to each side of front piece; sew back to one sleeve only. Put all stitches on hold – back, first sleeve, front and second sleeve stitches – on one needle.   Setup row (WS):  BS, p to last st, BS. Make two decreases randomly placed to correct st count. Work 8 inches of 2/2 rib: Row 1:  BS, k1, p2, k2, p2, repeat from to last 2 st, k1, BS. Row 2:  BS, p1, k2, p2, k2, repeat from to last 2 st, p1, BS. Repeat these 2 rows for 8 inches. Bind off loosely. Sew collar side and the last raglan. Sew body sides, beginning from armholes. Stop sewing on the removable markers. Let the side slits open at each side of the hem. Hide ends. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

01/08/2025 Level of difficulty Size: 17.7 inches (45 cm) tall x 17.7 inches (45 cm) wide.   Materials: 1 Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/8 (700g – 25 oz) yarn roll – Color: #20 (Natural); Crochet Hook – 5.00 mm; Filling for a 17.7” x 17.7” cushion.   Gauge:  A 4-inch (10cm) square in dc., made with Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/8 yarn and a 5.00 mm hook = 13 sts. x 6 rows.   Yield:  1 roll of Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/8 (700g – 25 oz) makes 1 piece.   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations:  st. (Stitch), sts. (Stitches), hk. (Hook), r. (Row/Round), ch. (Chain), sl st. (Slip Stitch), dc. (Double Crochet), sc. (Single Crochet), dctog. (Double Crochets Closed Together). Instructions:   Chart 1 – Front Part Start with 55 ch. + 3 ch. to turn the work. R. 1: Start in the 4th ch. from the hook: 6 dc., skip 1 base st., 2 dc., 2 dctog. (working the 1st dc. in the previously skipped st. and the 2nd by skipping 2 base sts.), 2 dc. over the 2 previously skipped sts. (leaving the 2 dctog. on the front side of the piece) , repeat from to until the end of row. Finish the last repetition with 7 dc. R. 2: Start with 3 ch., 6 dc., skip 2 base sts., 1 dc. over the 2 base dctog., 2 dc. into the 2 previously skipped sts. (leaving the previous dc. on the front side of the piece), 2 dc. in the next 2 base sts., return with 1 dc. over the 2 dctog. in the same base st. as the 1st stich of the group , repeat from to until the end of row. Finish the last repetition with 7 dc. Keep following chart 1, working in back-and-forth rows. Set the yarn aside.   Chart 2 – Front Part Edging Continue with the yarn from chart 1. R. 1: In the corner, work 3 sc. in the same base st., along the side, work 1 sc. in each base st. , repeat from to going all around the piece. Close with a sl st. Keep following chart 2, working in circular rounds. Fasten off the yarn.   Chart 3 – Back Part Start with 60 ch. + 4 ch. to turn the work. *** R. 1: Start in the 8th ch. from the hook: 1 dc., 2 ch., skip 2 base sts., 1 dc. , repeat from to until the end of row. Keep following chart 3, working in back-and-forth rows. Work the last round going all the way around the piece.   Join the front part with the back part using a hand seam on the wrong side of the piece, sewing together all 4 sides of the cushion.   On the back of the piece, join the yarn at the center of one side of the opening, leaving 6 squares on each side. Work a cord of 40 chains. Fasten off the yarn. Work a cord on the other side of the opening in the same way.   Insert the cushion filling and close the opening with the chain cord.   Designer: Heloisa Mazoni Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

12/28/2024 Level of difficulty Sizes: XS, S, M, (L, XL, 2XL) 3XL, 4XL, 5XL To fit bust: 31½", 35", 38½" (42", 45½", 49") 56", 52½", 59½" Ease: around 3½"   Materials: 5, 5, 6 (6,7, 7) 8, 8, 8 balls of Glamour - Color: 5368; Needles nr 6 and 4; Scissors; Tapestry needle; Removable markers; Pins or clips to hold parts together for sewing.   Stitches used: 2x2 rib: k2, p2, k2 . Stockinette: k on the right side, p on the wrong side. Stitch pattern: k1, yo, k2, pass the yo over the k2, k8 , yo, k2, pass the yo over the k2, k1. Middle lace: follow chart.   Gauge: 4" = 20 st × 27 rows in little lacy stitch Abbreviations: BO = bind off CO = cast on k = knit k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) inc = lift the strand between two st of the previous row, put it in left needle, knit it twisted nr = number st = stitch, stitches p = purl RS = right side sl1 = slip 1 st as if to knit ssk = sl1, sl1, knit these two stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease) WS = wrong side yo = yarn over   Little lacy stitch (multiple of 11st) Row 1:   k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, repeat from Row 2 and all even-numbered rows:  p Row 3:   k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, repeat from Rows 5 and  7:  k Repeat these 8 rows.   Instructions Front and Back With nr 6 needles, cast on 85, 92, 99 (105, 110, 118) 125, 132, 138 st with nr 8 needles. Setup rows 1 and 2:  k Work in Little Lacy Stitch: Row 1:  k4, 2, 0 (3, 0, 4) 2, 0, 3, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, repeat from a total of 7, 8, 9 (9, 10, 10) 11, 12, 12 times; k4, 2, 0 (3, 0, 4) 2, 0, 3. Row 2 and all even-numbered rows:  p Row 3:  k4, 2, 0 (3, 0, 4) 2, 0, 3, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, repeat from a total of 7, 8, 9 (9, 10, 10) 11, 12, 12 times; k4, 2, 0 (3, 0, 4) 2, 0, 3. Rows 5 and  7:  k Repeat these 8 rows. When Front measures 20, 20, 20 (22, 22, 22) 24, 24, 24 inches from CO, bind off. Repeat for Back.   Neck Sew right shoulder for 3½, 4⅛, 4¾ (5½, 6, 6⅝) 7¼, 7⅞, 8½ inches. For left shoulder, mark 3½, 4⅛, 4¾ (5½, 6, 6⅝) 7¼, 7⅞, 8½ inches from the other side of front and back, but don’t sew left shoulder yet. Leave center 10" open for neck. With nr 4 needles, pick up and knit 92 st around neck. Knit 4 rows in garter stitch. BO. Sew left shoulder and neck.   Sleeves With nr 4 needles, CO 54 st. 2/2 rib: Row 1: k1, k2, p2, repeat from , k1. Row 2: p1, k2, p2, repeat from , p1. Repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches. Change to nr 6 needles and make: Setup row 1: k; inc 1, 0, 0 (0, 0, 1) 1, 1, 1 st. Setup row 2: p. Work Little Lacy Stitch: Row 1: k0, 5, 5 (5, 5, 0) 0, 0, 0, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, repeat from a total of 5, 4, 4 (4, 4, 5) 5, 5, 5 times; k0, 5, 5 (5, 5, 0) 0, 0, 0. Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: p Row 3 k0, 5, 5 (5, 5, 0) 0, 0, 0, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, repeat from a total of 7, 8, 9 (9, 10, 10) 11, 12, 12 times; k0, 5, 5 (5, 5, 0) 0, 0, 0 Row 5: k2, inc, k to last 3 st, inc, k2. Row 7: k When repeating these 8 rows, as soon as you have sufficient stitches at the sides to work a new lacy motif, do it. Work this way until you have 63, 65, 68 (70, 73, 75) 78, 80, 83 st on your needles. As soon as you reach the desired number of stitches, keep working in Little Lacy Stitch without increases until the sleeve measures 22, 22, 22 (22¼, 22½, 22⅝) 22¾, 23, 23 inches from CO (or desired length for the sleeves.) BO.   Assembly On the BO of the first sleeve, mark the center. On the left side of the sweater, mark armholes: 6¼, 6½, 6¾ (7, 7¼, 7½) 7¾, 8, 8¼ inches from shoulder seam on front and back. Align sleeve center mark with left shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve from one armhole marker to the other and sew it to the body. Repeat on the other side and the other sleeve. Sew sleeves and body sides together. Hide ends. Little Lacy Stitch chart Sweater diagram Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

12/18/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate size:  12 cm (4.72″) height   Materials: 1 ball of Amigurumi yarn - Colors: #8001 (White) and #3528 (Carmine) (each); Gold thread; 3.0 mm crochet hook; Tapestry needle; Lock stitch marker.   Stitches Used: Chain Stitch = ch, Decrease = dec, Half Double Crochet = hdc, Increase = inc, Single Crochet = sc, Slip Stitch = sl st.   Instructions Stocking Use color #3528 (Carmine) Make 17 ch, skip 1 ch. Rnd 1: 15 sc (from the 2nd ch), 3 sc in the last ch, on the other side of the ch: 14 sc, 1 inc (34) Rnd 2: 1 inc, 14 sc, 3 hdc inc, 15 sc, 1 inc Note: pm on first sc (39) Rnd 3: 2 inc, 14 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc inc 3x, 16 sc, 1 inc (45) Rnd 4: 1 sc, 1 inc 2x, 14 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc inc 3x, 17 sc, 1 inc (51) Rnds 5 to 10: 6 rounds with 51 sc each. Rnd 11: 1 sc, 1 dec 2x, 14 sc, 6 hdc dec, 17 sc, 1 dec (42) Rnd 12: 18 sc, 4 hdc dec, 16 sc (38) Rnd 13: 17 sc, 3 hdc dec, 15 sc (35) Rnd 14: 3 sc, 1 dec to eor (28) Rnds 15 to 25: 11 rounds with 28 sc each. Make 3 sc to bring the yarn to the back. Change to color #8001 (White). Make a reinforcing round with 28 sc, working in the back loops only. Fasten off. Attach the color #8001 (White). Rnd 26: 28 sc in the loops left from round 25 (28) Rnds 27 to 30: 4 rounds with 28 sc each. Rnd 31: 2 ch and 1 sl st for each base stitch to eor. Fasten off.   Cut a piece of gold yarn, wrap it around the boot's shaft, and tie a knot. Cut another piece and tie it to the boot for hanging. Artisan: Paula de Tassia Ferreira (@crochedapaula1) Pattern review: Patty Wolf Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

How about decorating your child’s room with handmade pieces? Surprise your cuties with pieces made with much love specially for them. In this e-book, you will find 8 exclusive crochet patterns to set up a perfect kids room and still have access to some very useful tips for organizing a safe and comfortable environment for children during happy moments. eBook Here Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

12/14/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate size: 7.5 inches   Materials: 1 Amigurumi yarn ball – Colors: #8001 (White) & #8990 (Black); 1 Amigurumi Sparkle yarn ball – Colors: #5767 (Brazilian Green), #3528 (Carmine) & #8121 (Snowflake); Amigurumi yarn scraps – Color: #7567 (Cocoa); Circular knitting needle – 3.5 mm; Crochet hook – 3.0 mm; Polyester stuffing; Tapestry needle; Fabric glue or craft glue; Stitch marker.   Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: - Crochet: Increase = inc.; Triple Increase = incT.; Chain = ch.; Decrease = dec.; Slip Stitch = sl st.; Single Crochet = sc.; Back Loops Only = BLO; End of Round = eor; Place Marker = pm.   - Knitting: Knit Stitch = k.; Purl Stitch = p.; Yarn Over = yo.; Round = rnd.;Knit Two Together = k2tog.;Purl Two Together = p2tog.;Left-Leaning Increase (make an increase by lifting the horizontal strand between 2 stitches and inserting the needle from back to front) = LLI;Right-Leaning Increase (make an increase by lifting the horizontal strand between 2 stitches and inserting the needle from front to back) = RLI.;   Double Stitch for German Short Rows. (Purl rows: slip the first stitch purlwise, bring the yarn to the back of the work, and pull it up until two stitches are formed on the needle, return the yarn to the front, and continue the row in purl) = DSP (purl rows); Double Stitch for German Short Rows. (Knit rows: slip the first stitch knitwise, bring the yarn to the front of the work, and pull it up until two stitches are formed on the needle, return the yarn to the back, and continue the row in knit) = DSK (knit rows);   Knit Increase in the Same Base Stitch/Knit Front and Back (knit one stitch through the front loop without dropping it, then knit one stitch through the back loop) = KFB; Left-Leaning Decrease/Slip Slip Knit (slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right-hand needle. Return the stitches to the left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop) = SSK Knit Bind-Off = knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, leaving only one stitch on the right-hand needle; Purl Bind-Off = purl two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, leaving only one stitch on the right-hand needle.   Instructions Paw Reinforcement (4) With the Amigurumi yarn #8990 (Black) 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Fasten off with sl st. Make 3 more reinforcements just like the first one.   Paws (4) & Legs (4) Start with the Amigurumi yarn #8990 (Black) 1- 6 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 6 inc. = 12 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 15 sc.; 4- BLO: 15 sl st.; 5- 15 sc.Glue the paw reinforcement. Change to the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) 6- 15 sc.; 7- 3 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc.; 8 to 10 (3 rounds): 12 sc.; 11- 3 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 15 sc.; 12- 3 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc.; 13-.1 inc., 10 sc., 1 inc. = 14 sc.; 14-.1 sc., 1 inc., 11 sc., 1 inc. = 16 sc.; 15- 1 sc., 1 inc., 13 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc. Fasten off with sl st. Fasten off the first leg. Make the second leg up to the 14th rnd. and don’t cut the yarn. In the next rnd., join the legs, continuing from the second leg: 16-: 1 sc., 1 inc., 1 sc., 2 sc joining the two front legs (insert the hook from the inside to the outside of the 1st leg, joining it with the next stitch of the 2nd leg, and crochet them together) , 10 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc. Fasten off with sl st. Stuff firmly.Crochet the hind legs identical to the front legs, including the joining of the two.   Belly With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Chain 6, skip the 1st one. 1-1 inc., 3 sc., 1 incT. in the last ch., on the other side of the foundation ch.: 3 sc., 1 sc. in the last ch. = 12 sc.; 2- 1 sc., 1 inc., 3 sc., 1 inc., 1 sc., 1 inc., 3 sc., 1 inc. = 16 sc.; 3- 1 incT., 1 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 inc., 1 incT., 1 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.Don’t cut the yarn. Move on to the body.   Body Continue with the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Continue from the belly.Join the four legs to the belly.Sew the stitches at both ends of the belly to the legs, with the side of the increases facing inward towards the belly.Attach the yarn to the stitch at the join of the legs, crochet the first stitch of the 1st rnd. into the first stitch of the left leg, and place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.1- 12 sc. in the left hind leg, 6 sc. in the belly, 12 sc. in the right front leg, 12 sc. in the left front leg, 6 sc. in the belly, 12 sc. in the right hind leg = 60 sc. 2- 60 sc.; 3- 3 sc., 2 inc., 25 sc., 1 incT., 24 sc., 2 inc., 3 sc. = 66 sc.; 4 to 7 (4 rounds): 66 sc.; 8- 2 sc., (1 dec., 1 sc.) 2x, 1 dec., 46 sc., (1 dec., 1 sc.) 2x, 1 dec., 2 sc. = 60 sc.; 9- (1 sc., 1 dec.) 3x, 7 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., 18 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., 7 sc., (1 dec., 1 sc.) 3x = 50 sc.; 10- 1 sc., 3 dec., 5 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 2 dec., 12 sc., 2 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., 5 sc., 3 dec., 1 sc. = 38 sc. Separate the back from the neck. 11- 2 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 4 ch., skip 16 base sts., 1 sc. in the next st., 1 dec., 2 sc., 1 dec., 1 sc., 1 dec. = 20 stitches; Stuff the body. Continue crocheting the back. 12- 2 sc., 1 dec., 3 sc., 1 dec., 4 sc. in the ch., 1 dec., 3 sc., 1 dec. = 16 sc.; 13- 1 dec., 2 sc., (1 dec., 3 sc.) 2x, 1 dec. = 12 sc.; 14- 6 dec. = 6 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing of approximately 8 inches.Stuff the back. Close with a reverse magic ring.   Neck & Head With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Attach the yarn to the first ch. on the right side of the back. 1- 18 sc. in the body, 1 sc. between the last st. of the body and the first ch., 4 sc. in the ch., 1 sc. between the last ch. and the first st. made in this round = 24 sc.; 2- 18 sc., 3 dec. = 21 sc.; 3- 1 dec., 15 sc., 2 dec. = 18 sc.; 4 to 8 (5 rounds)- 18 sc.; 9- (1 sc., 1 inc.) 3x, 7 sc., (1 inc., 1 sc.) 2x, 1 inc. = 24 sc.; 10 to 12 (3 rounds)- 24 sc.; 13- 2 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 18 sc. Stuff the neck. 14- 1 sc., 1 dec. to eor = 12 sc.; 15- 6 dec. = 6 sc. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing of approximately 8 inches. Finish stuffing. Close with a reverse magic ring.   Ears (2) With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) 1- 5 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 5 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc., 2 sc., 1 inc. = 7 sc.; 4- 2 sc., 1 inc., 3 sc., 1 inc. = 9 sc.; 5- 3 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 inc. = 11 sc.; 6- 4 sc., 1 inc., 5 sc., 1 inc. = 13 sc.; 7 to 9 (3 rounds)- 13 sc.; 10- 4 sc., 1 dec., 5 sc., 1 dec. = 11 sc.; 11- 3 sc., 1 dec., 4 sc., 1 dec. = 9 sc. Fasten off with a sl st., leaving approximately 10 inches of yarn for sewing.Fold the ear and sew it to the top of the head.   Snout With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) 1- 4 sc. inside of a magic ring; 2- 4 inc. = 8 sc. Note: pm. on first sc.; 3- 1 sc., 1 inc. to eor = 12 sc.; 4 & 5- 12 sc. Fasten off with a sl st., leaving approximately 10 inches of yarn for sewing. Sew the snout to the front of the head, starting at the neck on the 8th rnd. and going around to the 12th rnd. of the head.Add stuffing when there are 3 stitches left to finish sewing.   Tail With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Cut 10 strands of yarn, each measuring 6 inches long, fold them in half, and tie them on the 7th, 8th, and 9th rnd. of the body, between the legs.   Mane With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Cut 12 strands of yarn of 4 inches long each, fold them in half and tie them starting between the ears, going down to the neck for 3 more rounds.   Forelock With the Amigurumi yarn #8001 (White) Cut 6 strands of 4 inches long each, fold them in half and tie them between the ears.   Trim the yarn from the tail, mane and forelock. With the  Amigurumi yarn #8990 (Black),  embroider the eyes mouth and nostrils. With the  Amigurumi yarn #7567 (Cocoa), embroider the noseband.     Clothes   The accessories are knitted in circular knitting without seams, using the 3.5 mm circular needle. Therefore, use the magic loop cast-on technique throughout the work.   Hat Start with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) Cast-on 6 stitches using the 'Magic Loop Cast-On' technique: create the magic loop, use a crochet hook to pull a loop through the magic ring, and pull the working yarn through to form each stitch.Cast-on the magic loop, dividing half of the stitches onto each needle.Pull the magic loop tight.Cast-on the magic loop, leaving half of the stitches on each needle. 1- k6; 2- (k1., 1 RLI.) 6x = 12 k. sts.; 3- k12; 4- (k2., 1 RLI.) 6x = 18 k. sts.; 5 to 7 (3 rounds)- 18 k sts..; 8- (k1., 1 RLI.) 6x = 12 k sts.; 9- 12 k.; 10- 6 SSK. = 6 k sts.. Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 11 to 13 (3 rounds)- k6.; 14- (k1, 1 RLI.) 6x = 12 k. sts.; 15 to 17 (3 rounds)- k12; 18- (k2, 1 RLI.) 6x = 18 k. sts.; 19 to 21 (3 rounds)- k18.; 22- (k3, 1 RLI.) 6x = 24 k. sts.; 23 to 25 (3 rounds)- k24; 26- (k4, 1 RLI.) 6x = 30 k. sts.; 27 to 29 (3 rounds)- k30;   30- k2, bind off 4 sts. in k. (leaving 1 k. st. remaining), k2, bind off 4 sts. in k. (leaving 1 k. st. remaining), k16 = 22 k. sts.31- k2, cast on 4 sts. onto the right-hand needle, k3, cast on 4 sts. onto the right-hand needle, k17 = 30 k. sts.   Join the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake)  and work using the Mosaic  technique, alternating colors for each round as follows:31- repeat: (k1, slip the next stitch purlwise) to the end of the round = 30 sts. Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 32- repeat: (slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in the back, bring the yarn to the front, and purl 1) to the end of the round = 30 sts.Repeat rounds 31 and 32 four more times, totaling 10 rounds. Cut the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  leaving a tail for finishing. Bind-off all stitches in knit with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake). Cut the yarn and weave in the ends into the fabric of the hat.   Poncho With the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) Cast on 30 stitches.Work in straight knitting, meaning back-and-forth rows.Start on the wrong side. 1- p30; 2- k30; 3- p30; 4- k30. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), join the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) 5- p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  p1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake)  to the end of round = 30 p. sts. 6- k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  k1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) to the end of round   = 30 k. sts. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) 7- p30; 8- k30. On the next row, divide the work to create a space for the tail to pass through.Once again, work with both colors over the 14 stitches on each side of the piece, naming the left side A and the right side B of the blanket. 9- A: knit 14 stitches alternating the colors: p1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) , p1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake),  bind off 2 stitches, finish the round alternating the colors: p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) , p1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake); 10- (A): k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) , k1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) = 14 sts. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake), continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 11- (A): p14; 12- (A): k14. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) 13- (A): (p2tog.) 7x = 7 p.; 14- (A): k7. Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 15- (A): (p2tog.) 3x, p1. = 4 p.; 16- (A): k4. Cut both yarns and attach them to the 1st stitch after the bind-off of 2 stitches from the 9th rnd., to knit the stitches left on the needle after dividing the work. 10- (B): p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  p1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) = 14 p. sts. Continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 11- (B): p14; 12- (B): k14. Without Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) 13- (B): (p2tog.) 7x = 7 p.; 14- (B): k7. Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 15- (B): (p2tog.) 3x, p1. = 4 p.; 16- (B): k4. Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) Cut the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine). 17- p4, k4 (on the other side of the opening created for the tail), p4, pick up 15 k sts. along the side of the work as follows: turn the work to the RS., hold the needle with the sts. in your left hand, and pick up sts. from left to right until you reach the cast-on edge. = 23 sts.;18- sl1 pwise, k22, pick up 15 sts. along the side of the work, starting from the needle up to the initial cast-on edge = 38 sts.;19- sl1 pwise, p37. On the next round, join the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) and continue working with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake). 20- sl1 pwise, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k1 with the   Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green)  until the end of round = 37 k. sts.; 21- sl1 pwise, p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , p1 with the   Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green), until the end of round = 37 p. sts..; 22- sl1 pwise, k36 = 37 sts.;23- sl1 pwise, p36 = 37 sts.;24- cast on 8 sts., k37, cast on 8 sts. = 53 sts.; 25- k8 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) , (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) ) 18x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k8 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green)  = 53 k. sts.; 26- p8 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) , (p1   with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) , p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake))  18x, p1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) , p8 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green)  = 53 p. sts.; 27- Bind off 8 sts. in k. using the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) , (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k1 with the   Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) )   18x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k8 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green)  = 45 k. sts.; 28- Bind off 8 sts. in p. using the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green), cut the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) and work p37 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) = 37 stitches. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake), continue with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) Next, work short rows: 1- k11 (TURN); 2- 1 DSK, p10 (TURN); 3- k9 (TURN); 4- 1 DSK, p8 (TURN); 5- k7 (TURN); 6- 1 DSK, p6 (TURN); 7- k5 (TURN); 8- 1 DSK, p4 (TURN); 29- k4, (k2tog, k1) 3x, k2tog, k26 = 37 sts. Next, work short rows: 1- p11 (TURN); 2- 1 DSP, k10 (TURN); 3- p9 (TURN); 4- 1 DSP, k8 (TURN); 5- p7 (TURN); 6- 1 DSP, k6 (TURN); 7- p5 (TURN); 8- 1 DSK, p4 (TURN); 30- p4, (ssp, p1) 3x, ssp, p26 = 37 sts. Without cutting the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), join the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) Next, work in circular knitting, that is, in rounds. 1- (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake))  6x, k2tog. with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) , k2tog. with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k2tog. with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake),  k2tog. with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  k2tog. with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) , k2tog. with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake), k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine))  6x = 31 stitches; 2- (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake), k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine))  15x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine)  = 31 stitches; 3- (k1 with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine),  k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) ) 15x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) = 31 stitches; 4- (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake), k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) )   15x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine)  = 31 stitches; 5- (k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine), k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) ) 15x, k1 with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) = 31 stitches.   Cut the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake). Bind-off the stitches in knit with the  Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine). Sew a small button onto the green flap that will be on the donkey's belly.   Scarf Start with the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) Cast-on 60 stitches.Work in flat knitting, that is: back-and-forth rows.All rows will be in knit stitch. 1 to 4 (4 rounds)- k60. (TURN). Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #3528 (Carmine) 5 to 8 (4 rounds)- k60. (TURN). Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #5767 (Brazilian Green) 9 to12 (4 rounds)- k60. (TURN). Change to the Amigurumi Sparkle yarn #8121 (Snowflake) Bind-off all stitches in knit.Add fringes to both ends.   Created by: Suely Beggiato (@duasarteiras) Pattern review by: Patty Wolf Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

12/09/2024 Level of difficulty SIZES Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, 2 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet: ·         Candy Cane: 5.5 cm. ·         Lollipop: 5 cm. ·         Reindeer: 9 cm. ·         Boot (2.75 mm crochet hook): 8 cm. ·         Reindeer + Boot Set: 14 cm. Using Círculo Amigurumi Slim yarn, 1.5 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet: ·         Candy Cane: 4.5 cm. ·         Lollipop: 4 cm. ·         Reindeer: 7.5 cm. ·         Boot (2.2 mm crochet hook): 6.5 cm. ·         Reindeer + Boot Set: 11 cm. MATERIALS AND TOOLS GENERAL MATERIALS AND TOOLS : ·         Crochet hooks: o   For Amigurumi yarn: 2 mm and 2.75 mm. o   For Amigurumi Slim yarn: 1.5 mm and 2.2 mm. ·         Embroidery needles (Tapestry no. 22, Crewel no. 7 and 9, and Milliner no. 7). ·         Stitch markers. ·         Sewing pins. ·         Scissor. ·         Universal plier. ·         Gold cord (for ornament hangers - optional).   FOR LOLLIPOP : ·         Círculo Amigurumi or Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o   Carmine 3528; o   Dulce de leche 7077; o   Off-white 8176.   FOR CANDY CANE : ·         Círculo Amigurumi or Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o   Carmine 3528; o   Off-white 8176. ·         White pipe cleaner (1 unit).   FOR REINDEER : ·         Círculo Amigurumi or Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o   Caramel 7076; o   Carmine 3528; o   Craft 7148; o   Eco 5083; o   Macadamia 3148; o   Off-white 8176. ·         Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné color Black #900 (for face details). ·         6 mm round safety eyes for Amigurumi yarn or 5 mm round safety eyes for Amigurumi Slim yarn (2 units). ·         Fiberfill. ·         Blush (for cheeks - optional). ·         Fabric or silicone glue.   FOR BOOT : ·         Círculo Amigurumi or Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o   Carmine 3528; o   Off-white 8176. ·         10 mm gold mini jingle bells (2 units - optional). ·         Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné color White #100 (for boot details - optional).   ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms) ·         Rnd(s): round(s). ·         St: stitch(es). ·         Ch: chain stitch. ·         Slst: slip stitch crochet. ·         Sc: single crochet. ·         Inc: single crochet increase (two sc into the same stitch). ·         Dec: single crochet decrease (two sc closed together). ·         Hdc: half double crochet. ·         Hdc-inc: half double crochet increase (two hdc into the same stitch). ·         Dc: double crochet. ·         [...] x n: repeat the instructions, within brackets, n times. ·         (...): total number of stitches in a round/row. Crocheting Instructions CANDY CANE The candy cane will be worked in a stripe pattern, alternating the yarn colors carmine (#3528) and off-white  (#8176) every two rounds. Start the first round with carmine yarn.   Rnd. 1:  start 6 sc in the magic ring (6). Rnd. 2–22 (21 ROUNDS):  6 sc (6). Note: alternate colors throughout the rounds, always working two rounds in carmine and then two rounds in off-white.   Don’t cut the yarns between changes, leave them on hold until the next color change.   Fasten off, leaving a tail to close the opening later.   To structure the piece, fold a pipe cleaner in half and twist it along the length until it’s firm. If the structure is longer than the piece, trim the excess with a plier. Then, insert the pipe cleaner inside the candy cane. Close the opening by weaving the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Shape into a candy cane. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   LOLLIPOP CANDY (MAKE 2) Start with carmine  yarn (#3528). Note: when crocheting the candy, don’t tighten the hdc too much. Rnd. 1:  start 6 hdc in the magic ring (6). Tip: place a piece of thread between the first and second stitches of the current round to mark the position. This will help you during the process of making the candy spiral. Rnd. 2:  work this round in the back third loop, 6 hdc-inc (12). Rnd. 3:  work this round in the back third loop, [1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4:  work this round in the back third loop, 1 sc, 1 slst (2). Leave the remaining 16 st unworked. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail (approx. 35 cm) on the second piece.   Make the spiral detail of the candy With off-white  yarn (#8176), pull a loop of yarn between the first and second stitches of Rnd. 1 of one piece, inserting the hook from the right to the wrong side of the piece. Reintroduce the hook between the next two stitches and make 1 slst. Repeat this process, making surface slst between the stitches until you reach the first stitch of Rnd. 4. At the end, fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Repeat the process for the second piece.   STICK In dulce de leche  yarn (#7077).   Ch 9. Crochet in rows. Note: the ch at the end of each row does not count to the total stitches count of the row. When crocheting the stick, don’t tighten the slst too much. Row 1:  inserting the hook in the back bump of the second ch from the hook, make 8 slst, ch 1, turn (8). Tip: before making the turning chain, place a stitch marker into both loops of the last stitch of the current row. This will help you locate the loops for the next row. Row 2:  working in both loops of the stitches, make 8 slst, ch 1, turn (8). Tip: at the end of the row, repeat the marker process. Row 3:  working in both loops of the stitches, make 8 slst (8).   Fasten off.   ASSEMBLY 1.    Position the two parts of the candy one on top of the other, with the wrong sides facing inward, aligning the final slst of both pieces. The slst will be the starting point for sewing. 2.    Using the residual carmine yarn and a tapestry needle, sew the pieces together, using only the back loops of the Rnd. 3 and 4 of the candy. 3.    Before closing the seam, insert the stick between the two parts of the candy. Finish sewing to secure the stick and form the lollipop. Make sure there are no open spaces between the candy and the stick. If necessary, reinforce the seam to ensure the stick is firmly attached. 4.    Fasten off the seam and weave in the yarn end. If you wish, make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   REINDEER EARS  (MAKE 2) The ears will be worked using the jacquard technique, alternating between the yarn colors caramel (#7076) and macadamia  (#3148). Color changes are indicated within {brackets} throughout the rounds. Inside the brackets is the color, followed by the sequence of stitches to be made with that color.   Rnd. 1:  {caramel} work 4 sc in a magic ring (4). Rnd. 2:  {caramel} 4 inc (8). Rnd. 3:  {caramel} 1 sc, {macadamia} 1 inc , {caramel} [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (12). Rnd. 4:  {caramel} 1 sc, {macadamia} 1 sc, 1 inc , {caramel} [2 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (16). Rnd. 5:  {caramel} 1 sc, {macadamia} 3 sc , {caramel} 12 sc (16). Rnd. 6:  {caramel} 8 dec (8).   Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears don’t need to be stuffed.   Flatten the piece, then fold it in half, positioning the macadamia-colored section in the center. Using a tapestry needle, secure the two sides together with a tight stitch.   HORNS  (MAKE 2) PART 1 In craft  yarn (#7148).   Rnd. 1:  start 4 sc in a magic ring (4). Rnd. 2:  4 sc (4). Fasten off.   PART 2 In craft  yarn (#7148).   Rnd. 1:  start 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2–3 (2 ROUNDS):  5 sc (5).   Don't fasten off the second part. In the next round, we'll join the both parts together to form the horn.   Rnd. 4:  join the second part to the first one with 1 sc into the first st of Part 1. Complete the round making sc in next 3 st on the first part. Return to the second part and make 3 sc, 1 dec (8). Rnd. 5:  1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (6). Rnd. 6:  6 sc (6).   Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The horns don’t need to be stuffed.   SNOUT In off-white  yarn (#8176).   Rnd. 1:  work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  1 inc, 1 hdc-inc, 2 inc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 inc (12).   Invisible fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.   Embroider the snout Using a Crewel no. 9 embroidery needle and a single strand of black embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #900), embroider the snout at the center of the piece.   HEAD In caramel  yarn (#7076). Rnd. 1:  start 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  6 inc (12). Rnd. 3:  2 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc (18). Rnd. 4:  2 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 3 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 1 sc (24). Rnd. 5:  2 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 3, 3 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 3, 1 sc (30). Rnd. 6:  4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (34). Rnd. 7:  6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (38). Rnd. 8–11 (4 ROUNDS):  38 sc (38). Rnd. 12:  7 sc, 6 inc, 13 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc (50). Rnd. 13:  50 sc (50). Rnd. 14:  7 sc, 6 dec, 13 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc (38). Rnd. 15:  3 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (34).   Insert the safety eyes between Rnd. 11 and 12, centered on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, leaving 7 st between them.   Rnd. 16:  4 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 3, 5 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 3, 1 sc (28). Rnd. 17:  2 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4, 2 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4 (20).   Stuff the head firmly with fiber, taking care to shape the cheeks and maintain the elliptical shape of the top, leaving the base (the region that will later connect to the body) slightly flat.   Rnd. 18:  10 dec (10). Rnd. 19:  work only 2 dec (2). Leave the remaining 6 st unworked.   Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.   Sew the snout between the eyes With the help of sewing pins, position the snout at the center of the head, between the eyes, over Rnd. 12 and 15. Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly.   Sew the ears to the top of the head With the help of sewing pins, position the ears on top of the head, over Rnd. 7 and 8 , with the macadamia center facing forward (the front of the piece will be the side where the safety eyes were inserted). Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly. Note: align the ears and horns in such a way that they form an imaginary straight line across the head. This imaginary line divides the head into two equal parts: front and back.   Sew the horns to the top of the head With the help of sewing pins, position the horns at the top of the head, between Rnd. 3 and 5, about 1 st away from the ears,  leaving the highest side facing the ears.  Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly.   Make the face details ·         Using a tapestry needle and six strands of white embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #100), embroider the waterline. ·         Using a Crewel no. 9 embroidery needle and two strands of black embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #900), embroider the eyelashes. ·         With a Crewel no. 7 embroidery needle and three strands of white embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #100), embroider spots on the forehead, making 5 small straight stitches over Rnd. 5 and 9. ·         If you wish, apply blush on the cheeks and make a hanging loop for the ornament using a gold cord.   LEGS  (MAKE 2) In caramel yarn (#7076).   Rnd. 1:  start 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  [1 inc, 2 sc] x 2 (8). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS):  8 sc (8). Fasten off the first leg. Repeat Rnd. 1–4 for the second leg, but don’t fasten off. In the next round, we’ll join both legs together and start crocheting the body.   BODY The body will be a continuation of the legs. Continue with the caramel yarn (#7076). Ch 2. Rnd. 5: ch 2. Then join the second leg to the first one with 1 sc into the first st of Rnd. 4 of the first leg. Continue the round by making 1 sc in the next 7 st on the first leg, sc in each of next 2 ch. Return to the second leg and make sc in next 8 st. Finish the round with 1 sc in the opposite side of each of the 2 ch (20). Rnd. 6:  20 sc (20). Rnd. 7:  3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (18). Rnd. 8:  2 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (16). Rnd. 9:  2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (14). Rnd. 10:  14 sc (14). Rnd. 11 : work only 1 sc, 1 slst (2). Leave the remaining 12 st unworked.   Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the legs and body firmly with fiberfill. Sew the body below the head With the help of sewing pins, position the opening of the body at the bottom of the head, over Rnd. 18. Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly. If necessary, stuff the head and body with more fiberfill before closing the seam. ARMS  (MAKE 2) In caramel  yarn (#7076).   Rnd. 1:  start 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2–3 (2 ROUNDS):  6 sc (6). Rnd. 4:  1 dec, 4 sc (5). Rnd. 5:  work only 1 sc (1). Leave the remaining 4 st unworked. Flatten the arm opening so that the stitches line up. The arm doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 6: sc in next 2 st through both layers to close the opening (2). Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the arms to the body With the help of sewing pins, position the arms to both sides of the body, over the Rnd. 11, aligning these parts with the legs. Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly. TAIL In caramel  yarn (#7076). Rnd. 1:  leaving a starting yarn tail for sewing, work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2:  3 dec (3). Note: due to the small size of the tail, you’ll need a bit more patience when working on the decreases! Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Shape the piece, curving the tip. The tail doesn’t need to be stuffed. Tip: gently weave in the yarn end to maintain the tail's pointy shape. Sew the tail to the back With the help of sewing pins, position the tail on the back center of the body, over Rnd. 6 and 7. Using a tapestry needle, sew tightly.   SCARF The scarf will be worked alternating between the yarn colors  eco  (#5083) and carmine  (#3528). To ensure the scarf looks good on both sides, use the tapestry crochet technique to handle both colors of this piece, carrying the yarn along the work. Whenever transitioning from eco to carmine yarn , change colors in the traditional way by completing the eco stitch before switching to carmine. For the reverse transition, from carmine to eco , use an invisible color change: complete the final yarn-over of the carmine stitch with eco, rather than with carmine. Start in eco  yarn. Ch 37. Work all stitches in the back bumps of the foundation chain. Inserting the hook in the back bump of the third ch from the hook, make 1 dc. Switch to carmine  and make 1 dc. Return to eco and make 3 dc. Repeat the sequence [ {carmine} 1 dc, {eco}  3 dc] x 7. Switch again to carmine  and make 1 dc. Return to eco  and finish making 1 dc. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. ASSEMBLY Fold 2 cm from one end of the scarf at a 90º angle, with the wrong sides facing inwards. Apply a small amount of glue on the inside of the fold to keep it in place. Wrap the scarf around the reindeer's neck, with the wrong side facing outwards, and glue the other end of the scarf so that it stays in place. BOOT To make the boot softer, use a crochet hook 0.75 mm larger than the one used for the reindeer.  For example: If you crocheted the reindeer with Amigurumi yarn and a 2 mm crochet hook, work the boot with a 2.75 mm crochet hook. If you crocheted the reindeer with Amigurumi Slim yarn and a 1.5 mm crochet hook, work the boot with a 2.2 mm crochet hook. Ensure you are using the correct crochet hook size To ensure you're using the correct hook size, make the foundation chains indicated for Part 1 of the boot and join them into a ring. Place this chain ring around the reindeer’s neck while it’s wearing the scarf. There should be about one finger’s width (approx. 1 cm) of space between the foundation chains and the reindeer. If the ring feels too loose, switch to a smaller crochet hook; if it’s too tight, try a larger one. These adjustments will help ensure the boot is the correct size. PART 1 In carmine  yarn (#3528). Ch 30. Ensure your chain isn't twisted, then insert the hook into the first chain stitch. Join the foundation chain with 1 slst to form a ring. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd. 1–8 (8 ROUNDS):  30 sc (30). Rnd. 9:  1 dec, 28 sc (29). Rnd. 10–13 (4 ROUNDS):  29 sc (29). Rnd. 14:  15 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc (30). Rnd. 15:  1 dec, 13 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc (31). Rnd. 16:  1 dec, 12 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 dec (31). Rnd. 17:  1 dec, 11 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 dec (31). Rnd. 18:  1 dec, 27 sc, 1 dec (29). Rnd. 19:  1 dec, 9 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 3, 7 sc, 1 dec (24). Rnd. 20:  1 dec, 8 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 2, 6 sc, 1 dec (20). Rnd. 21:  1 dec, 5 sc, 3 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (15). Rnd. 22:  work only 7 dec (7). Leave the last st unworked. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. RUFFLE To make the ruffle of the boot, pull a loop of off-white (#8176) through the remaining loop of the last chain of Part 1 (this is the free loop of the last stitch of Rnd. 1 of Part 1). Insert the crochet hook from the inside of the boot to the outside and work the first stitch of the next round from this position. Rnd. 1–2 (2 ROUNDS):  30 sc (30). Rnd. 3:  [1 inc, 14 sc] x 2 (32). Rnd. 4:  [1 sc, skip the next st, 5 dc in the next st, skip the next st] x 8 (48).   Make 1 slst into the first st of the Rnd. 4 before starting the next round. Rnd. 5: [ch 1, 1 slst] x 48 (48 - the ch don’t count as stitches). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Fold the ruffle outward.   If you wish, hang two gold mini jingle bells on the back of the boot.   Using a Milliner no. 7 embroidery needle and three strands of white embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #100), embroider French knots on the boot.   If you wish to use the boot as an individual ornament, make a hanging loop using a gold cord. However, if the ornament is used together with the reindeer (reindeer inside the boot), the cord is not necessary. The boot fits securely around the reindeer, and the reindeer's cord is sufficient to hang both. Created by: LovLoops Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...