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05/15/2026 Level of difficulty: Advanced Size: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) Materials: Circulo Bohemia yarn – 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins in color 5532 (Light Moss). US crochet hook size C/2 (3.0 mm). Buttons – 3 small green ball buttons. Tracing paper – for the pattern template. Gauge: A 4 in / 10 cm square in pattern stitch following the chart with a 3.0 mm hook = 28 sts x 8 rows. Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: The indications in parentheses ( ) are the abbreviations used throughout the pattern. Chain (ch) Stitch (st) Yarn over (yo) Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, and draw directly through the loop on the hook. Single crochet (sc): Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on the hook. Double crochet (dc): Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 2 loops. Treble crochet (tr): Yo twice, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops twice, yo and pull through remaining 2 loops. Pattern stitch: Follow chart. Pattern Notes: Pattern uses US crochet terms. Instructions: Transfer the templates onto tracing paper to use as a reference while making the garment. Back: Using Light Moss Bohemia yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, ch 126 (135, 144, 162, 171, 189) plus 1 turning ch and work in pattern stitch following the chart, repeating from to across 14 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21) times. At 18 (19, 19.75, 20.5, 21.25, 22) in / 46 (48, 50, 52, 54, 56) cm from the beginning, fasten off. Front: Work as for the Back until piece measures 15.75 (16.5, 17.25, 18, 19, 19.75) in / 40 (42, 44, 46, 48, 50) cm from the beginning. At this point, for the neckline opening, divide the work into two equal parts and work each side separately. At 18 (19, 19.75, 20.5, 21.25, 22) in / 46 (48, 50, 52, 54, 56) cm from the beginning, fasten off. Finishing: Shoulders: Sew the shoulders together for 5.75 (6, 6.5, 7.75, 8, 9.25) in / 14.5 (15.5, 16.5, 19.5, 20.5, 23.5) cm on each side from the edges. Neckline: Using Light Moss Bohemia yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, work 4 rows in pattern stitch around the entire neckline following the chart, then work 1 row of sc. Also work 1 row of sc along the neckline opening. Sides: Sew the sides for 11 (11, 11.5, 11.75, 11.75, 12.25) in / 28 (28, 29, 30, 30, 31) cm on each side measured from the lower edge. Armholes: Using Light Moss Bohemia yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, work 1 row of sc around the armholes and along the lower edge of the blouse, then fasten off. Buttons: Sew the buttons onto the edge of the neckline opening on the right side at regular intervals. Button through the stitches along the opening on the left side. Designer: Mariane Machado Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/20/2026 Level of difficulty: Advanced Size: Sweater measures 41 (45½, 47½)" to fit bust 34-38 (40-42, 44-46)". Materials: Bossa Nova yarn: 6 (7, 8) skeins color 8061 (Parchment); 32-Inches circular needles nr. 7 and 8; If you wish, double pointed needles, nr 7 and 8, to knit sleeves (you can also use the long circular needles with magic loop technique); Tapestry needle to hide tails; Pieces of contrasting colored yarn to put stitches on hold. Gauge: 4" = 16st × 25 rounds in stockinette stitch Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: BO = bind off; BOR = beginning of round; CO = cast on; k = knit; k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease); k3tog = knit 3 stitches together (right-leaning double decrease); KRL: knit right loop: insert right needle into right leg of the loop of the stitch one row below the first stitch on left needle; slip this stitch on left needle; knit this stitch; m1 = make 1 st: lift the strand between stitches, put it on left needle, work it twisted through the back loop; nr = number; nupp: make [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] into the stitch you want to place the bobble taking care to make long stitches; slip these 5 long st to left needle; knit them together through the back loop; st = stitch, stitches; p = purl; p2tog = purl 2 stitches together; pfb = purl front and back; PM = put marker; RS = right side; sl2k1psso: slip 2 st together as if to knit; k1; pass slipped st over knitted st; ssk = sl1k, sl1k, knit these two stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease); sssk = sl1k, sl1k, sl1k; knit these three stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning double decrease); yo = yarn over. Pattern Notes: Pattern uses US crochet terms. Instructions: Cowl You can use any cast on you prefer. We used the Italian cast-on: Use the smaller needle. Provisional cast-on with scrap yarn: 36 (40, 44) st. Join to work in rounds. Round 1: k1, yo (total 72 (80, 88) st) Round 2: sl1wyb, p1 Round 3: k1, sl1wyf Now work 10 rounds of 1/1 rib: *k1, p1, repeat to end. Next round: k1, yo (total 144 (160, 168) st) Next round: sl1wyb, p1 Next round: k1, sl1wyf Next round: sl1wyb, p1 Next round: p2tog (total 72 (80, 88) st) Body Use bigger needle. Setup round 1: k; make 8 (0, 8) regularly spaced increases Setup round 2: p1, k3, repeat from to end Now, follow rounds 1 to 43 of the stitch chart or the written instructions: Round 1: p1, k3, yo, p1, yo, k3, repeat from to end. Round 2: p1, k4, repeat from to end Round 3: p1, k3, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k3, repeat from to end. Round 4: p1, k5, repeat from to end. Round 5: p1, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, p1, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, repeat from to end. Round 6: p1. k6, repeat from to end. Round 7: p1, yo, ssk, k4, p1, k4, k2tog, yo, repeat from to end. Round 8: p2, k5, p1, k5, repeat from to end. Round 9: p2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, repeat from to end. Round 10: p3, k4, p1, k4, repeat from to end. Round 11: p3, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, repeat from to end. Round 12: p3, k4, p1, k4, repeat from to end. Round13: p3, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, p1, yo, k1, yo, sssk, repeat from to end. Round 14: p3, k4, p1, k4, repeat from to end. Round 15: p2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, repeat from to end. Round 16: p2, k6, p1, k6, repeat from to end. Round 17: p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k3, repeat from to end. Round 18: p2, k8, p1, k8, repeat from to end. Round 19: p1, m1, p1, yo, ssk, k6, p1, k6, k2tog, yo, p1, m1, repeat from to end. Round 20: p1, k1, p2, k7, p1, k7, p2, k1, repeat from to end. Round 21: p1, KRL, k1, p2, yo, ssk, k5, p1, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, KRL, repeat from to end. Round 22: p1, k2, p3, k6, p1, k6, p3, k2, repeat from to end. Round 23: nupp, k2, p3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p3, k2, repeat from to end. Round 24: p1, k1, p4, k5, p1, k5, p4, k1, repeat from to end. Round 25: p1, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p4, yo, ssk, repeat from to end. Round 26: p1, k2, p5, k4, p1, k4, p5, k2, repeat from to end. Round 27: p1, k2, p5, k3tog, k1, p1, k1, sssk, p5, k2, repeat from to end. Round 28: p1, k2, p5, k2, repeat from to end. Round 29: p1, yo, ssk, p3, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, p1, yo, k1, yo, sssk, p3, k2tog, yo, repeat from to end. Round 30: p1, k2, p3, k4, p1, k4, p3, k1, repeat from to end. Round 31: nupp, k2, p1, k3tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, pfb, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sssk, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 32: p1, k2, p1, k6, p2, k6, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 33: p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k3, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k3, p1, yo, ssk, repeat from to end. Round 34: p1, k2, p1, k8, p2, k8, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 35: p1, k2, p1, k4, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k4, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 36: p1, k2, p1, k10, p2, k10, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 37: p1, yo, ssk, yo, p1, k6, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, yo, sssk, k6, p1, yo, k2tog, yo, repeat from to end. Round 38: p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, repeat from to end. Round 39: nupp, k2, p2, k4, k3tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sssk, k4, p2, k2, repeat from to end. Round 40: p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, repeat from to end. Round 41: p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, k3tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, sssk, k1, p2, ssk, yo, repeat from to end. Round 42: p1, k2, p1, k10, p2, k10, p1, k2, repeat from to end. Round 43: p1, k2, p1, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sssk, p1, k2, repeat from to end. 310 (310, 372) st total. Size S - Body Separate body and sleeves: Round 44: p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, PM, p1, k2, p2, k4; put 75 st on hold for right sleeve; cast on 10 st; k5, p2, k2, PM, p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, repeat from * once, PM, p1, k2, p2, k4; put 75 st on hold for left sleeve; cast on 10 st; k5, p2, k2, PM p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2. From now, follow rows 45 to 55 of stitch chart; between markers, follow body underarm chart, size Small; or follow the written instructions: Round 45: p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p3, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k13, k2tog, yo, p3, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p3, k2tog, yo, repeat from once, p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k13, k2tog, yo, p3, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p3, k2tog, yo. Round 46: p1, k2, p4, k7, p4, k7, p4, k2, p1, k2, p4, k15, p4, k2, p1, k2, p4, k7, p4, k7, p4, k2, repeat from once, p1, k2, p4, k15, p4, k2, p1, k2, p4, k7, p4, k7, p4, k2. Round 47: nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k11, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, repeat from once, nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k11, k2tog, yo, p4, k2. Round 48: p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, ssk, k9, k2tog, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2, repeat from once, p1, k2, p5, ssk, k9, k2tog, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2. Round 49: p1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, repeat from once, p1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk. Round 50: p1, k2, p6, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, ssk, k5, k2tog, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, repeat from once, p1, k2, p6, ssk, k5, k2tog, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2. Round 51: p1, k2, p6, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2, repeat from once, p1, k2, p6, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2. Round 52: k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k7, p6, ssk, k1, k2tog, p6, k3, k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3, repeat from once, k4, p6, ssk, k1, k2tog, p6, k3, k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3. Round 53: k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k9, p5, sl2k1psso, p5, k4, k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, repeat from once, k5, p5, sl2k1psso, p5, k9, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4. Round 54: k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k11, p2, k7, p2, k5, k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, repeat from once, k6, p2, k7, p2, k11, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5 Round 55: k15, p2, k29, p2, k7, p2, k14, k15, p2, k14, repeat from once, k15, p2, k7, p2, k29, p2, k14. 168 st total. Go to Body – stockinette st Go to Body – stockinette st Size M Follow rounds 44 to 47 of stitch chart or follow the written instructions: Round 44: p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, repeat from to end. Round 45: p1, yo, ssk, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. Round 46: p1, k2, p4, k7, p4, k7, p4, k2, repeat from to end. Round 47: nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, repeat from to end. Separate body and sleeves: Round 48: p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k1; put 75 st on hold for right sleeve; cast on 13 st; k2, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2, repeat from once, p1, k2, p5; put 75 st on hold for left sleeve; cast on 13 st; k3, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2. Follow rounds 49 to 55 of stitch chart or follow the written instructions: Round 49: p1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5 , yo, ssk, repeat from to end. Round 50: p1, k2, p6, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, repeat from to end. Round 51: p1, k2, p6, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2, repeat from to end. Round 52: k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3, repeat from to end. Round 53: k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, repeat from to end. Round 54: k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, repeat from to end. Round 55: k15, p2, k14, repeat from to end. 186 st total. Go to Body – stockinette st Size L Follow rounds 44 to 51 of stitch chart or follow the written instructions: Round 44: p1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k10, p2, k2, repeat from to end. Round 45: p1, yo, ssk, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. Round 46: p1, k2, p4, k7, p4, k7, p4, k2, repeat from to end. Round 47: nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, repeat from to end. Round 48: p1, k2, p5, k5, p6, k5, p5, k2, repeat from to end. Round 49: p1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk, repeat from to end. Round 50: p1, k2, p6, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, repeat from to end. Round 51: p1, k2, p6, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2, repeat from to end. Separate body and sleeves: Round 52: k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3, PM, k4, p6, k1, p6; put 90 st on hold for right sleeve; p7, k1, p6, k3, PM, k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3, repeat from , PM, k4, p6, k1, p3; put 90 st on hold for left sleeve; p6, k1, p6, k3, PM, k4, p6, k1, p10, k1, p6, k3. From now, follow rows 53 to 55 of stitch chart; between markers, follow body underarm chart, size Large; or follow the written instructions: Round 53: k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, k5, p4, k4, p8, k4, p4, k4, k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, repeat from , k5, p4, k4, p8, k4, p4, k4, k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4. Round 54: k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, k6, p2, k6, p6, k6, p2, k5, k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, repeat from , k6, p2, k6, p6, k6, p2, k5, k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5. Round 55: k15, p2, k14, k16, p2, k15, k15, p2, k14, repeat from *, k16, p2, k15, k15, p2, k14. Total 194 st. Go to Body – stockinette st Body – stockinette st From round 56 on, k for 7 (8, 9)" or desired length. Change to smaller needles; work in 1/1 rib for 12 rounds; bind off. We used the Italian bind off: Round1: k1, sl1wyf, repeat from to end. Round 2: sl1wyb, p1, repeat from to end. Cut yarn letting a long tail (minimum three times total circunference) and use a tapestry needle to graft knitted and purled stitches. You can easily find reference videos on the internet. Sleeves Size S Put sleeve stitches on hold on nr 8 needle. Round 1: Pick up and knit 5 st from center of underarm; k4, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p3, yo, ssk, k1, repeat from , k2, pick up and knit 5 st on underarm. Put a BOR marker on the needle. Follow Size Small Sleeve chart or follow the written instructions: Round 2: k1, p2, k2, k5, p4, k7, p4, k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, repeat from , k5, p2. Round 3: k1, p2, yo, ssk, k3, ssk, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, p4, k2, nupp, k2, p4, yo, ssk, repeat from , k3, k2tog, yo, p2. Round 4: k1, p3, k1, k4, p6, k5, p5, k2, p1, k2, p5, k1, repeat from , k4, p3. Round 5: k1, p3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, repeat from , ssk, k1, k2tog, p3. Round 6: k1, p3, p1, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, p1, k2, p6, repeat from , k3, p4. Round 7: k1, p2tog, p2, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k1, p1, k2, p6, repeat from , yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p2, p2tog. Round 8: k1, p3, p1, k1, p10, k1, p6, k7, p5, repeat from , p1, k1, p4. Round 9: k1, p3, k3, p8, k3, p4, k9, p4, repeat from , k3, p3. Round 10: k1, p2, k1, k4, p6, k5, p2, k11, p2, k1, repeat from , k4, p2. Round 11: k4, k5, p4, k22, repeat from , k5, p1. Round 12: k. Round 13 (decrease round): k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1. Go to Sleeves: stockinette st Size M Put sleeve stitches on hold on nr 8 needle. Round 1: Pick up and knit 7 st from center of underarm; yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p5, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, p5, repeat from , yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, pick up and knit 6 st on underarm. Put a BOR marker on the needle. Round 2: p1, k1, p5, p1, k3, p8, k3, p6, k2, p1, k2, p5, repeat from , p1, k3, p8, k3, p4. Round 3: p1, k1, p5, p1, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p6, k2, p1, k2, p5, repeat from , p1, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p8, yo, sl2k1psso, yo, p4. Round 4: k3, p4, p2, k1, p10, k1, p6, k7, p4, repeat from , p2, k1, p10, k1, p5. Round 5: k4, p3, p1, k3, p8, k3, p4, k9, p3, repeat from , p1, k3, p8, k3, p4. Round 6: k5, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k11, p2, repeat from , k5, p6, k5, p2, k1. Round 7: k1, p2tog, k4, k6, p4, k21, repeat from , k6, p4, k6, p2tog, k1. Round 8: k6, k7, p2, k22, repeat from , k7, p2, k9. Rounds 9 to 12: k. Round 13 (decrease round): k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1. Go to Sleeves: stockinette st Size L Right sleeve Put right sleeve stitches on hold on nr 8 needle. Put a BOR marker on the needle. Round 1: p3, k3, p4, k4, k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, repeat from , k5, p4, k3, p2. Round 2: p2, k5, p2, k5, k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, repeat from , k6, p2, k5, p1. Round 3: p1, k13, k14, p4, k13, repeat from , k14. Round 4: k14, k15, p2, k14, repeat from , k15. Rounds 5 and 6: k. Round 7(decrease round): k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1. Go to Sleeves: stockinette st Left sleeve Put stitches on hold for right-side sleeve on needle. Put a BOR marker on the needle. Round 1: p6, k3, p4, k4, , k5, p4, k3, p8, k3, p4, k4, repeat from , k5, p4, k2. Round 2: p5, k5, p2, k5, k6, p2, k5, p6, k5, p2, k5, repeat from , k6, p2, k3. Round 3: p4, k13, k14, p4, k13, repeat from , k11. Round 4: k1, p2, k14, k15, p2, k14, repeat from , k11. Rounds 5 and 6: k. Round 7 (decrease round): k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1. Go to Sleeves: stockinette st Sleeves: stockinette st From now on, k all rounds, decreasing as indicated each 6th round (repeat decrease round), until sleeve measures14½ (15¼, 16)" (or desired length) from armhole. In the last round distribute evenly the number of decreases required to get to 46 st. Change to smaller needle and knit 12 rounds of 1/1 rib. Bind off loosely. We used Italian bind off, explained in the body instructions. Finishing Hide all yarn tails. Use armhole yarn tails to close any hole left when knitting the sleeves. Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/07/2026 Level of difficulty Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) Materials: 4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of Alpaya yarn – Color: 7881 (Oatmeal); Crochet hook – US L-11 (7.0 mm); Tracing paper for the template. Gauge: 11 sts x 9 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) square in pattern stitch following the chart, using US L-11 (7.0 mm) hook. Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: The indications between ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Chain (ch) Stitch (st) Yarn over (yo) Row (R) Decrease (dec) Increase (inc) Treble crochet (tr): yo twice, insert the hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops, and with another yo, pull through the remaining loops. Slip stitch (sl st): insert the hook, yo, pull up a loop and pass it directly through the loop on the hook. Single crochet (sc): insert the hook, yo, pull up a loop and with another yo, finish off all loops. Double crochet (dc): yo, insert the hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops and with another yo, pull through all loops. Back post double crochet (BPdc): yo, insert the hook horizontally from back to front around the dc of the previous row, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops and with another yo, pull through all loops. Front post double crochet (FPdc): yo, insert the hook horizontally from front to back around the dc of the previous row, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops and with another yo, pull through all loops. Pattern stitch: follow the chart. Pattern ribbing: follow the chart. Pattern Notes: Pattern uses US crochet terms. Instructions: Back – Transfer the templates to tracing paper to use as a reference while making the piece. Using Alpaya yarn in Oatmeal color and a US L-11 (7.0 mm) hook, make a foundation chain of 42 (46, 52, 58, 62, 68) ch + 3 ch to turn and work in pattern stitch following the chart. At 17.25 (18, 19, 19.75, 20.5, 21.25) in / 44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 54) cm from the beginning of the work, fasten off. Front – Work as for the back until 13.75 (14.5, 15.25, 16.25, 17, 17.75) in / 35 (37, 39, 41, 43, 45) cm from the beginning of the work. At this point for the neckline, stop working the 8 (8, 8, 10, 8, 10) center sts and work each side separately. On the neckline side, leave unworked at each row: XS: 3 sts (1 time), then 1 st (3 times) S: 3 sts (1 time), then 1 st (3 times) M: 3 sts (1 time), then 2 sts (2 times) L: 3 sts (1 time), then 2 sts (2 times) XL: 3 sts (2 times), then 2 sts (1 time) 2XL: 3 sts (2 times), then 2 sts (1 time) At 17.25 (18, 19, 19.75, 20.5, 21.25) in / 44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 54) cm from the beginning of the work, fasten off. Sleeves – Using Alpaya yarn in Oatmeal color and a US L-11 (7.0 mm) hook, make a foundation chain of 25 (27, 29, 31, 35, 40) ch + 3 ch to turn and work in pattern stitch following the chart. Increase every each row: XS: 1 st (19 times) S: 1 st (17 times) M: 1 st (17 times) L: 1 st (15 times) XL: 1 st (13 times) Increase every 2 rows: 2XL: 1 st (10 times) At 8.75 (9, 9.5, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75) in / 22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27) cm from the beginning of the work, fasten off. Finishing – Sew the shoulders and sides. Using Alpaya yarn in Oatmeal color and a US L-11 (7.0 mm) hook, work around the entire neckline 2 rows in pattern ribbing following the chart and fasten off. Using Alpaya yarn in Oatmeal color and a US L-11 (7.0 mm) hook, work around the entire lower edge of the blouse 7 rows in pattern ribbing following the chart and fasten off. Attach the sleeves over 7.75 (7.75, 8.25, 8.25, 8.75, 9) in / 20 (20, 21, 21, 22, 23) cm on each side of the shoulder seams. Sew the lower edge of the sleeves. Designer: Isamar Erbesdobler Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/03/2026 Level of difficulty Advanced Beginner OSLO SWEATER Designed by Andi Javori SKILL Knitting DIFFICULTY Advanced Beginner SIZES S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL Sample shown in Small. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)” Length: 21½ (22, 22½, 23, 23½)” MATERIALS • Yarn A – 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins – Circulo Alpaya, Soft Natural - 20; 70% Cotton Pima Organic, 30% Baby Alpaca, 185yds/100g. • Yarn B – 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 5) skeins – Circulo Alpaya, color Breath 3346; 70% Cotton Pima Organic, 30% Baby Alpaca, 185yds/100g. • Size US 7 (4.5mm) 32” circular knitting needles long enough to accommodate the amount of sts on needle and double-pointed needles, or size needed to match gauge • Size US 6 (4.00mm) 32” circular knitting needles long enough to accommodate the amount of sts on needle or size needed to match gauge • Stitch markers • Stitch holder • Tapestry Needle GAUGE 18 sts x 26 rows = 4” (10cm) in Eyelet Pattern in the round, after blocking. Save time, check your gauge. PATTERN NOTES A relaxed, easy-to-wear sweater featuring clean stripes and a simple eyelet pattern that adds a subtle touch of texture. Designed with a flattering boat neck, it offers a timeless silhouette that feels both casual and refined. Lightweight and approachable, this piece is perfect for layering and everyday comfort. This sweater is knit seamlessly in the round from the bottom up. The front and back are separated at the underarms. Stitches for the sleeves are picked up and knit seamlessly from the top down. STITCH GUIDE 1X1 Broken Rib Pattern in the Round (multiple of 2 sts). Rnd 1: Knit. Rnd 2: K1, P1; rep from around. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt. 1x1 Broken Rib Pattern worked Flat (multiple of 2 sts). Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: K1, p1; rep from to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt. 1x1 Broken Rib Pattern worked Flat (multiple of 2 +1 sts). Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: K1, p1; rep from to last st, k1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt. Eyelet Pattern in the round (multiple of 6 sts) Rnds 1 and 2: With Yarn A, knit. Rnd 3: Yskp, k3; rep from around. Rnd 4: Knit. Rnds 5 and 6: With Yarn B, knit. Rnd 7: K3, yskp; rep from around. Rnd 8: Knit. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt. SWEATER PATTERN Cast on 162 (180, 198, 216, 234, 252) sts with Yarn A and with smaller 32” circular needles. Work in 1x1 Broken Rip Patt in the round for 2½”. Note: When changing colors, carry unused yarn up the WS of work. Switch to the larger 32” circular needle. Work in Eyelet patt in the round starting with Rnd 1 until piece measures approx 14” from the beginning, ending with either Rnd 4 or Rnd 8 of patt. Separate Back/Front: Note1: You will now begin working flat, back and forth in rows. Carry the unused yarn up the outside edge of your work. Note 2: Now that you are working back and forth in rows, work the first 3 stitches and the last 3 stitches of the eyelet row in Stockinette stitch. This will prevent gaps from forming when you pick up stitches for the sleeves. Please note that after dividing for Front and Back, Sizes S, L, and 2XL will have a partial repeat of the 6-st Eyelet patt at the end of the Front and beginning of the Back. Work the affected sts in Stockinette stitch. Work 81 (90, 99, 108, 117, 126) Front sts in established patt, place rem 81 (90, 99, 108,117, 126) sts for Back on st holder. FRONT Cont in established patt until armholes measure approx 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾)”, ending with Rnd 4 or Rnd 8 of patt. Cont with Yarn A, work Broken Rib until armholes measure 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)”, ending with a WS row. BO knitwise. BACK Place 81 (90, 99, 108, 117, 126) sts for Back onto needle from st holder and work the same as the Front. Sew shoulder seams for approx. 4 ½ (5½, 6, 7, 7½, 8½)”, leaving a neck opening approx. 9 (9,10, 10, 11, 11)”. SLEEVE (make 2) Note: When working sleeve shaping in Eyelet patt, if there are not enough sts to work a complete yskp, work the affected sts in Stockinette stitch instead. Note 2: As you decrease, it may be helpful to move markers between pattern repeats to help you stay on track. With Yarn A and larger dpns, and beginning at center underarm, pick up and knit 68 (72, 76, 82, 86, 90) sts around armhole, making sure there are 34 (36, 38, 41, 43, 45) sts on either side of shoulder seam. PM for beginning of round and start knitting in the round as follows: Rnd 1 with Yarn A: K1 (3, 2, 2, 1, 3), PM, work Rnd 1 of Eyelet patt to last 1 (3, 2, 2, 1, 3) st(s), PM, knit to end. Rnd 2: Knit, slipping markers. Rnd 3: Knit to marker, SM, work Rnd 3 of Eyelet patt to marker, SM, knit to end. Rnd 4: Knit. Rnds 5 and 6: With Yarn B - Knit. Rnd 7: Knit to marker, SM, work Rnd 7 of Eyelet patt to marker, SM, knit to end. Rnd 8: Knit. Work in established patt for approx 2” from the pick-up round, ending with Rnd 5 of patt. Sleeve Shaping Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, work in est’d patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 – 2 sts dec’d – 66 (70, 74, 80, 84, 88) sts . Cont in est’d patt, rep Dec Rnd every 20 (14,10, 10, 8, 6) rnds, 3 (3, 4, 4, 6, 9) times, then rep Dec Rnd every 18 (12, 8, 8, 6, 4) rnds, 1 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4 times – 8 (12, 16, 16, 20, 24) sts dec’d – 58 (58, 58, 64, 64, 64) sts rem. Cont even in patt as established until sleeve measures approx. 15¾ (15¾, 14¾, 14¾, 14¾)” ending with a knit rnd in patt. Cuff Cont with Yarn A, work Broken Rib patt for approx. 2¼”, ending with a knit rnd. BO in patt. FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements if needed. Abbreviations Approx: approximately BO: bind off Cont: continue Dec: decrease Dpns: Double-pointed needles Est’d: established K: knit M: marker P: purl Patt: pattern PM: place marker Rem: remaining Rep: repeat RS: right side SM: slip marker St(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side 2026 © CIRCULO Circuloyarns.com This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use and may not be reproduced, resold, or shared. Items created from this pattern are not to be sold without permission. Designed by Andi Javori Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/15/2026 Level of difficulty Size: One Size Materials: 4 skeins of Bohemia yarn – Color: 2927 (Aquarium) Knitting needles – US 6 (4.0 mm) and US 8 (5.0 mm). Gauge: 25 sts x 26 rows – A 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) square in pattern stitch following the chart, using US 8 (5.0 mm) knitting needles. Stitch Glossary and Abbreviations: The indications in ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Row (R) Stich[es] (st[s]) Right side/Wrong side (RS/WS) Yarn over (yo) Decrease (dec) Knit (k) Purl (p) Stockinette stitch – knit on RS, purl on WS.Double seed stitch – R1: [k1, p1]R2 and all even rows: work sts as they appear, offsetting the pattern (k the p sts and p the k sts)R3: [p1, k1]Pattern stitch – follow chart. Instructions: With Bohemia yarn in Aquarium color and US 6 (4.0 mm) needles, cast on 76 sts and work in double seed stitch following the pattern. At 1.2" (3 cm) from the beginning, switch to US 8 (5.0 mm) needles and work as follows: 5 sts in double seed stitch, 66 sts in pattern stitch following the chart, 5 sts in double seed stitch.At 69.7" (177 cm) from the beginning, switch to US 6 (4.0 mm) needles and work all sts in double seed stitch. At 70.9" (180 cm) from the beginning, bind off. Designer: Mariane Machado Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/09/2026 Level of difficulty Size: One Size Materials: 2 skeins of Anne yarn – Color: 5556 (Tiffany) 2 skeins of Bohemia yarn – Color: 2307 (Tide) Knitting needles – US 6 (4.0 mm); Crochet hook – US C-2 (2.5 mm). Gauge: 20 stsx 26 rows – 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) in the stitch pattern with both yarns held together using US 6 (4.0 mm) needles. Stitch Glossary and Abbreviations: The indications in ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Row (R) Stich[es] (st[s]) Right side/Wrong side (RS/WS) Yarn over (yo) Increase (inc) Knit (k) Purl (p) Stockinette stitch – knit on RS, purl on WS. Reverse stockinette stitch – purl on RS, knit on WS. Garter stitch – work all rows in knit or purl. Pattern stitch – multiple of 4 + 1 + edge sts.R1: 1 edge st, [k3tog without dropping sts from the needle, yo, k the same 3 sts again (resulting in k1, yo, k1), k1]; finish with k2, 1 edge st.R2 and all even rows: purl all sts.R3: 1 edge st, k2, [k3tog without dropping sts from the left needle, yo, k the same 3 sts again (resulting in k1, yo, k1), k1]; finish with k3tog as before, 1 edge st.R5: repeat from R1. Chain (ch) Single crochet (sc) – insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through remaining loops. Double crochet (dc) – yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through all loops. Edging – follow chart. Instructions: Begin the shawl from the lower tip. With Anne yarn in Tiffany color and Bohemia yarn in Tide color held together, cast on 5 sts using US 6 (4.0 mm) needles and work as follows: P2 at the right edge and k3 at the left edge. Continue to the end of the piece, keeping the 3 sts at the left edge in knit and working the remaining sts as established in the pattern. Increase on the right 1 st from the edge, and on the left 3 sts from the edge, every 2 rows: 1 st (34x) and 2 sts (51x). At the same time, work in the following stitch sequence: [14 rows in purl stitch, 2 rows in knit stitch, 10 rows in pattern stitch, 2 rows in knit stitch] (6x), 14 rows in purl, then bind off. Finishing – With Anne yarn in Tiffany color and Bohemia yarn in Tide color held together and a US C-2 (2.5 mm) crochet hook, work along the stockinette edge one row of edging stitch following the chart, and fasten off. Designer: Mariane Machado Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/05/2026 Finished Measurements 78 3/4” (200 cm) wingspan, 20 1/4” (51.5 cm) depth at deepest point Yarn Aussie by Circulo (100% superwash Australian merino wool; 215 yds (197 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)) 2 balls in color Evergreen, held singly Note: since this is a kettle-dyed yarn, you may want to alternate skeins throughout. Needles 32-40” (81-102 cm) circular needle in size needed to obtain gauge Suggested size: US 7 (4.5 mm) Notions Stitch marker, cable needle as desired, tapestry needle, blocking materials Gauge 15 sts and 29 rows = 4” (10 cm) in garter rib, after lace blocking Using Long-Tail Cast On, CO 4 sts. Next Row (WS): Knit. Set-Up (or see Set-Up Chart) Row 1 (RS): K2, e-loop, k2. 1 st inc’d—5 sts. Row 2 (WS): Knit. Row 3: K2, e-loop, k2tog, k1. Row 4: Knit. Row 5: K2, e-loop, knit to end. 1 st inc’d—6 sts. Row 6: K3, p1, k2. Row 7: K2, e-loop, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 8: Rep Row 6. Row 9: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—7 sts. Row 10: K3, p2, k2. Row 11: Rep Row 7. Row 12: K2, p2, k1, p2. Row 13: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—8 sts. Row 14: K2, p2, k4. Row 15: Rep Row 7. Row 16: [K2, p1] twice, k2. Row 17: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—9 sts. Row 18: K2, p1, k2, p2, k2. Row 19: Rep Row 7. Row 20: K4, p2, k3. Row 21: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—10 sts. Row 22: K4, p2, k4. Row 23: Rep Row 7. Row 24: K3, p2, k2, p1, k2. Row 25: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—11 sts. Row 26: K3, [p2, k2] twice. Row 27: Rep Row 7. Row 28: [K2, p2] twice, k3. Row 29: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—12 sts. Row 30: [K2, p2] twice, k4. Row 31: Rep Row 7. Row 32: K2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2. Row 33: Rep Row 5. 1 st inc’d—13 sts. Row 34: K2, p1, [k2, p2] twice, k2. Row 35: Rep Row 7. Row 36: K4, p2, k2, p2, k3. Row 37: Rep Row 5—14 sts. Row 38: K4, p2, k2, p2, k4. Garter Rib (or see Garter Rib Chart) Row 1 (RS): K2, e-loop, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2 (WS): K3, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 3: K2, e-loop, knit to end. 1 st inc’d. Row 4: K3, [p2, k2] to end. Row 5: Rep Row 1. Row 6: K2, [p2, k2] to last st, k1. Row 7: Rep Row 3. 1 st inc’d. Row 8: K2, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, k2. Row 9: Rep Row 1. Row 10: K2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 11: Rep Row 3. 1 st inc’d. Row 12: K2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] to end. Row 13: Rep Row 1. Row 14: K4, [p2, k2] to last st, k1. Row 15: Rep Row 3. 1 st inc’d. Row 16: K4, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, k2. 18 sts. Rep Rows 1-16 of Garter Rib 3 more times. 22 sts after first repeat, 26 after second, and 30 after third. Lace (or see Lace Chart) Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1RC, k1] to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2 (WS): K2, [k1, p2, k1] to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2. Row 3: K2, (yo) twice, ssk, [k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk] to last 2 sts, k2. 1 st inc’d. Row 4: K2, [p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, p1] to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, k2. Row 5: K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1LC, k1] to last 4 sts, k1, k2tog, k1. Row 6: K3, [k1, p2, k1] to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2. Row 7: K2, (yo) twice, ssk, [k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk] to last 3 sts, k3. 1 st inc’d. Row 8: K2, p1, [p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, p1] to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, k2. Row 9: K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1RC, k1] to last 5 sts, k2, k2tog, k1. Row 10: K2, p1, k1, [k1, p2, k1] to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2. Row 11: K2, (yo) twice, ssk, [k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk] to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2. 1 st inc’d. Row 12: K2, p2, [p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, p1] to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, k2. Row 13: K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1LC, k1] to last 6 sts, k1, 1/1LC, k2tog, k1. Row 14: K4, p1, [p1, k2, p1] to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Row 15: K2, e-loop, knit to end. 1 st inc’d. Row 16: K4, p1, [p1, k2, p1] to last 5 sts, p1, k4. 34 sts. Work Rows 1-16 of Garter Rib Pattern 7 times. 38 sts after first repeat, 42 sts after second, 46 after third, 50 after fourth, 54 after fifth, 58 after sixth, and 62 after seventh. Work Rows 1-16 of Lace one time. 66 sts. Work Rows 1-16 of Garter Rib Pattern one time. 70 sts. Work Rows 1-16 of Lace one time. 74 sts. Work Rows 1-16 of Garter Rib Pattern 3 times. 78 sts after first repeat, 82 sts after second, and 86 sts after third. Please note: if you run out of your first ball of yarn (or half your yardage) before completing the first repeat of Garter Rib Pattern here, you may not have sufficient yardage to complete the shawl as written. You can either restart with a smaller needle, or omit the third repeat here. Work Rows 1-16 of Lace once, and then work Rows 1-15 once Lace once more. 90 sts after first repeat and 94 sts after second. Do not turn work. Place marker, then pick up and knit 178 sts along edge (approximately 1 st for every garter valley). 272 sts. Next Row (WS): K2, [k2, p2] to 4 sts before m, k4, sm, k2, [k2, p2] to 4 sts before end, k4. Border Lace (or see Border Lace Chart) Row 1 (RS): *K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1RC, k1] to 3 sts before m/end, k1, yo, k2; sm, rep from * once more to end. 4 sts inc’d. Row 2 (WS): *K2, p1, k1, [k1, p2, k1] to 4 sts before m/end, k1, p1, k2; sm, rep from * once more to end. Row 3: *K2, (yo) twice, ssk, [k2tog, (yo) twice, ssk] to 4 sts before m/end, k2tog, (yo) twice, k2; sm, rep from * once more to end. 4 sts inc’d. Row 4: *K2, (k1, p1) into double yo, p1, [p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, p1] to 5 sts before m/end; p1, (k1, p1) into double yo, k2; sm, rep from * once more to end. Row 5: *K2, yo, k1, [k1, 1/1LC, k1] to 3 sts before m/end, k1, yo, k2; sm, rep from * once more to end. 4 sts inc’d. Rows 6-8: Rep Rows 2-4. 4 sts inc’d. Rows 9-13: Rep Rows 1-5. 12 sts inc’d—300 sts. Do not turn work. BO from WS as follows: K1, *backwards yo, k1, pass first 2 sts over third; rep from * to end. Weave in all ends and block to measurements. Abbreviations BO bind off CO cast on RS right side WS wrong side k knit e-loop holding yarn in left hand, place left thumb on top of yarn and rotate thumb counter clockwise letting yarn form a loop over the thumb (as for a Backwards Loop Cast On or the first part of a Long-Tail Cast On). Place on right needle. st(s) stitch(es) inc’d increased k2tog knit 2 together (1 st decreased, leans right) p purl rep repeat 1/1RC slip next st to cn and hold to back, k1, then k1 from cn 1/1LC slip next st to cn and hold to front, k1, then k1 from cn ssk slip 2 sts individually knitwise to right needle, return to left needle in new orientation, knit together through the back loop (1 st dec’d; leans left) sm slip marker m marker m/end used when the pattern repeat is the same on either side of the central marker; the first time through the repeat, work to x sts before m, the second time through the repeat, work to x sts before the end yo yarnover (1 st inc’d) By Bristol Ivy Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/08/2026 Level of difficulty Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) Materials: Aussie yarn in the following colors: 7132 (Honey), 7382 (Chocolate), 7126 (Biscuit); Yarn requirements: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins 7132 (Honey), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins 7382 (Chocolate), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins 7126 (Biscuit); Knitting needles – US 10 (6.0 mm); Circular needle – US 10 (6.0 mm) with a 23.6” (60 cm) cable; Stitch holder; Tracing paper for the template. Gauge: 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) square in stockinette stitch using US 10 (6.0 mm) knitting needles. Stitch Glossary & Abbreviations: The indications between ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Stitch (st) Row (R) Right side (RS) Wrong side (WS) Knit stitch (k) Purl stitch (p) Decrease (dec) Yarn over (yo) 1x1 rib: k1, [p1, k1]. Stockinette stitch: RS knit, WS purl. Reverse stockinette stitch: RS purl, WS knit. Instructions: Transfer the templates to tracing paper to use as a reference while making the piece. Front and back – Worked together. Using Aussie yarn in Honey color and the circular needle, cast on 68 (72, 76, 80, 82, 86) sts and knit in 1x1 rib. At 1.2 in / 3 cm from the beginning of the work, switch to Aussie yarn in Chocolate and begin working stripes in the following color sequence: Chocolate, Biscuit, Honey, repeating. Work stripes as follows: S: 11 stripes of 4 cm each M: 10 stripes of 4 cm each, then 1 stripe of 6 cm L: 12 stripes of 4 cm each XL: 11 stripes of 4 cm each, then 1 stripe of 6 cm 2XL: 13 stripes of 4 cm each 3XL: 12 stripes of 4 cm each, then 1 stripe of 6 cm At this point, finish the piece as described at the end of the pattern, after the increases. At the same time, begin shaping with increases as follows: Setup increases On the first row after the ribbing, make 1 increase in every knit stitch. On the 6th row after the previous increase row, make 1 increase in every purl stitch. After completing these two increase rows, the stitch pattern will be established as 2 knit, 2 purl (2x2 rib). Total: 136 (144, 152, 160, 164, 172) sts Main increases From this point on, work increases in a consistent and evenly distributed manner: On each increase round, increase 34 (36, 38, 40, 41, 43) stitches evenly across the row. Work all increases in knit stitches to maintain the rib pattern. To ensure symmetry: Always work increases in the same vertical columns established on the first increase round. This creates clean, continuous increase lines throughout the piece. Increase frequency Work increase rounds as follows: On the 6th row after the last increase, once Then every 8th row, 3 times Then every 12th row, 2 times Total: 6 increase rounds Final stitch count After completing all increase rounds, you will have: 340 (360, 380, 400, 410, 430) stitches To finish the piece, knit in 1x1 rib using Aussie yarn in Honey color. Sleeves At 1.2 in / 3 cm of ribbing, transfer 36 (40, 43, 47, 50, 54) sts to the US 10 (6.0 mm) needles, bind off 134 (140, 147, 153, 155, 161) sts, leave 36 (40, 43, 47, 50, 54) sts on hold on a stitch holder, and bind off the remaining 134 (140, 147, 153, 155, 161) sts. Work one sleeve on the 36 (40, 43, 47, 50, 54) sts on the US 10 (6.0 mm) needles using Aussie yarn in Honey color, in 1x1 rib for 6 (6, 5.5, 5.5, 5, 4.75) in / 15 (15, 14, 14, 13, 12) cm and bind off. Return the 36 (40, 43, 47, 50, 54) sts from the stitch holder to the US 10 (6.0 mm) needles and work the second sleeve the same way. Finishing – Sew the sleeves. Designer: Mariane Machado Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/12/2026 Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) Materials 6.0 mm (J) crochet hook; Aussie 100% Australian Merino Yarn by Circulo in 6 colors (listed below); Yarn needle; Stitch markers; Scissors; Blocking mat & pins. Colors A: Saffron - 1325 (2 balls) B: Evergreen - 2769 (1 ball) C: Honey - 7132 (1 ball) D: Super Black - 8289 (1 ball) E: Pinoli - 7859 (1 ball) F: Chocolate - 7382 (1 ball) Gauge 14 sts x 11 rows for a 4 inch square Measurements Measurements will vary depending on how loose or tight you crochet and how much stretch you make when blocking. So a rough estimate of a finished sleeve is 16.5” in length (this can be shortened by eliminating rows in the repeat). One panel from top to bottom (before folding in half for assembly) is going to be roughly 34”- 40” long depending on the size you make. Abbreviations Ch - chain St - stitch Sc - single crochet Dc - double crochet BLO - back loop only This sweater is meant to be a bit oversized. The model in the photo is 5’10” and is wearing a size small. The front and back of this garment look the same. This sweater is constructed of two over the shoulder panels that are whip stitched together, leaving an opening for the neck and armholes. Then the sleeves are added, and lastly the bottom cuff and neckline border. Striped Panel - Make 2 XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) With main color (color A) - Ch 115 (121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151) Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Change color. Ch 3, turn. Row 2: 1 dc in the first st and in each st across. Ch 3, turn. Row 3: 1 dc in the first st and in each st across. Change to main color. Ch 1, turn. Row 4: 1 sc in the first st and in each st across. Change color. Ch 3, turn. Repeat Rows 2-4 for a total of 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) MORE times. Once your panels are completed, I highly recommend blocking as this yarn has lots of stretch to it. Sleeves - make 2 With main color: Ch 49 (51, 53, 55, 59, 63, 67) Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Change color. Ch 2, turn. Row 2: 1 dc in each st across. Ch 2, turn. Row 3: 1 dc in each st across. Change back to main color. Ch 1, turn. Row 4: 1 sc in each st across. Change color. Ch 2, turn. Row 5: 1 dc in each st across. Ch 2, turn. Row 6: 1 dc in each st across. Change back to main color. Ch 1, turn. Row 7: 1 sc in each st across. Change color. Ch 2, turn. Row 8: 1 dc in each st across. Ch 2, turn. Row 9: 1 dc in each st across. Change back to main color. Ch 1, turn. Row 10: 1 sc decrease over the first two sts, 1 sc in each st across until you have two sts remaining, 1 sc decrease over the last two sts. Change color. Ch 2, turn. (decrease row made) *You will decrease every 6 rows from here on out* Repeat Rows 5-10 six times. (if this feels too long - keep in mind you haven’t blocked yet - you can adjust the length). Once you have your rows completed, fold your sleeve in half lengthwise and start whipstitching up the sides. It is best to use all the remaining ends from the rows to sew along where that specific color is, that way there is color cohesion on the seam. Once your seam is sewn and ends are weaved in, I recommend blocking your sleeve. It definitely has room to stretch and grow. Sleeve Cuff With main color, attach yarn in any st along the bottom of the sleeve. Round 1-2 (in BLO): Ch 2, 1 hdc dec over the first two sts, *1 hdc in the next 5 sts, 1 hdc dec over the next 2 sts,* repeat around. Hdc in any remaining sts. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Assembly After your panels are blocked and dried, fold your panels in half and sew up the side seams leaving an opening for your sleeves. You can use stitch markers to attach your sleeve so you know where to stop the side seam. Then sew up the front stopping at the neckline, and do the same for the back, stopping at neck line. I recommend sewing up to about 10” for both front and back. Then attach your sleeves using the whip stitch method. Bottom Cuff *Each round here, besides Round 1, is a decrease round. This adds a sinch to the bottom of the garment. With main color, attach your yarn in any stitch along the bottom of your garment. Ch 2. Round 1: 1 hdc evenly around the entire piece. Join with a sl st in the top of the first hdc. Round 2-6 (in BLO): Ch 2, 1 hdc dec over the first two sts, *1 hdc in the next 5 sts, 1 hdc dec over the next two sts*, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st in the top of the first hdc. *Everyone will have a different stitch count here, this is fine and will not throw off the design. If you don't have exactly 5 sts at the end of each row - which you won’t - just finish off the row with what you do have and move on to the next row. Finish off and weave in all ends. Neckline Border With main color, attach yarn in any stitch along the neckline. Ch 2. Round 1: 1 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st in the top of the first hdc. Ch 1. Round 2 (in BLO): 1 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st in the top of the first sc. Finish off, weave in ends. If you have any questions about this pattern, please email the designer at julie@handsofzeal.com Designed by Hands of Zeal Crochet Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/06/2026 Level of difficulty Sizes: S-3X Pattern Notes Pattern Sizing is as follows: S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X) PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS & INFORMATION BEFORE STARTING YOUR PROJECT. The cardigan is constructed by crocheting the sleeves, front panels, and back panel separately. Each piece is worked from the bottom up, beginning with the flower motifs and continuing upward. To adjust the length, simply repeat the pattern until you reach your desired measurement. Blocking is required, and it is recommended to block all pieces before assembly. **The flower motif is designed using a join-as-you-go method. If you’d like a visual guide to follow alongside the written instructions below, I’ve created a step-by-step tutorial on YouTube. You can find it on my channel, Hands of Zeal Crochet, or use the direct link here: https://youtu.be/TOT7HOcCioo?si=S1kPCTFCXyvdYo-X Materials Circulo Bohemia Yarn: 7 balls for size S-M, 8 balls for size L-XL, 9 balls for size 2X-3X Hook size: D / 3.25mm Scissors Yarn needle Blocking mat and pins Stitch markers 2-3 small buttons if you would like to add buttons Measurements (after blocking with full stretch to fabric) *Please keep in mind you can make this cardigan longer by adding more rows to the front and back panels. Just follow the pattern repeat. Finished sleeve: 18” in length S/M Back panel: 24” wide x 17” long. S/M Front panel: 9.5” wide x 17” long. L/XL Back panel: 26” wide x 18” long. L/XL Front panel: 11.5” wide x 18” long. 2X/3X Back panel: 28” wide x 19” long. 2X/3X Front panel: 13.5” wide x 19” long. Abbreviations & Special Stitches Ch - chain Hdc - half double crochet Dc - double crochet Sl st - slip stitch Beg dc cluster - beginning double crochet cluster: Yarn over, insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over again, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on the hook to complete the beginning double crochet cluster. Dc cluster - double crochet cluster: Yarn over, insert your hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over again, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on the hook to complete the double crochet cluster. Puff st - puff stitch: Yarn over, insert your hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, repeat from * to * two more times, until you have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on the hook to complete the puff stitch. Flower Motif Instructions - (each square measures 1.75” x 1.75”) The flower motif squares are a join-as-you-go design - essentially creating a strip of squares. You will make a certain number of squares for the cuff of the sleeves, as well as for both the front panels and back panel. The amount of squares you make will depend on the size you are making: ● Small & Medium sizes: make 4 squares for each sleeve, 3 squares for each front panel, and 8 squares for the back panel. ● Large & Extra Large sizes: make 5 squares for each sleeve, 4 squares for each front panel, and 9 squares for the back panel. ● 2XL & 3XL sizes: make 6 squares for each sleeve, 5 squares for each front panel, and 10 squares for the back panel. Round 1: Ch 5, sl st into the first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, 8 sc into the ring. Sl st to the first sc to join. Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), beg dc cluster in the first st, *ch 3, dc cluster in the next st,* repeat from * around, ending with a ch 3 and joining with a sl st to the top of the beg cl. (8 petals) Round 3 (for your first motif ONLY): *Ch 5, sc in the next ch 3 sp, ch 8, sc in the same ch 3 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch 3 sp* repeat from * 2 more times. Ch 5, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 8, sc in same ch 3 sp, ch 5, join with a sl st to the bottom of the beginning ch 5. Finish off. Now you are going to join your next motif to the first one, and then your next motif to the second one, and so on. Repeat Round 1 and 2 ONLY for the second motif (and all other motifs), then move on to this next step: Round 3 (for second and remaining motifs): Ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch 3 space. ● Ch 4, join to the other motif by making a sc into one of the ch-8 corner spaces (from underneath), then ch 4, place 1 sc back into the same ch 3 sp of the main piece you are working on. ● Ch 2, 1 sc in the corresponding ch 5 space on the joining piece. ● Ch 2, 1 sc into the next ch 3 space on the main piece. ● Ch 2, 1 sc into the corresponding ch 5 space on the joining piece. ● Ch 2, 1 sc into next ch 3 space on the main piece. ● Ch 4, sc into the ch 8 space on the joining piece. Ch 4, sc back into the same ch 3 space on the main piece. ● *Ch 5, sc in next ch 3 space, ch 5, sc in the next ch 3 space, ch 8, 1 sc in the same ch 3 space* repeat from * 1 more time. End with a ch 5, join with a sl st to the ch 1 of the beginning ch 5. Finish off. Sleeve Instructions Grab your 4 (5, 6) flower motif strip. Working along the wrong side, join yarn in the corner ch-8 space and ch 3. Row 1: 5 dc in the same ch-8 sp, 5 dc in each ch 5 and ch 8 space across. (20 dc per motif). Turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, sk 3, puff st in the next st (see abbreviations), ch 3, place a second puff st in the same st, ch 3, place a third puff st in the same st, *sk 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, *sk 3, [puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next st,* repeat from * to * across until you have 5 remaining sts (includes turning ch), sk 3, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *ch 3, 1 sc in the top of the middle puff st, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * across, ending your last dc in the top of the turning ch, Turn. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *[puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next sc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to the end of the row, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have a total of 24 rows. Then for your remaining rows you will follow the sequence below: Row 25: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *ch 3, 1 sc in the top of the middle puff st, ch 3, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st,* repeat from * to * across, ending your last dc in the top of the turning ch, Turn. Row 26: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *[puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next sc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to the end of the row, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Row 27: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, *ch 3, 1 sc in the top of the middle puff st, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts,* repeat from * to * across, ending your last dc in the top of the turning ch, Turn. Repeat Rows 26 and 27 until you have a total of 43 rows or until your desired height is reached. You can hold the piece up to your arm as you work to check the sleeve length. Keep in mind that the sleeve will be blocked, which will stretch it slightly. Front Panel Instructions - make 2 Grab your 3 (4, 5) flower motif strip. Working along the wrong side, join yarn in the corner ch-8 space and ch 3. Row 1: 5 dc in the same ch-8 sp, 5 dc in each ch 5 and ch 8 space across. (20 dc per motif). Turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, sk 3, puff st in the next st (see abbreviations), ch 3, place a second puff st in the same st, ch 3, place a third puff st in the same st, *sk 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, *sk 3, [puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next st,* repeat from * to * across until you have 5 remaining sts (includes turning ch), sk 3, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *ch 3, 1 sc in the top of the middle puff st, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * across, ending your last dc in the top of the turning ch, Turn. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *[puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next sc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to the end of the row, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have a total of 39 (41, 43) rows or until your desired height is reached. Keep in mind that the panels will be blocked, which will stretch it slightly. Back Panel Instructions - make 1 Grab your 8 (9, 10) flower motif strip. Working along the wrong side, join yarn in the corner ch-8 space and ch 3. Row 1: 5 dc in the same ch-8 sp, 5 dc in each ch 5 and ch 8 space across. (20 dc per motif). Turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, sk 3, puff st in the next st (see abbreviations), ch 3, place a second puff st in the same st, ch 3, place a third puff st in the same st, *sk 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, *sk 3, [puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next st,* repeat from * to * across until you have 5 remaining sts (includes turning ch), sk 3, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *ch 3, 1 sc in the top of the middle puff st, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * across, ending your last dc in the top of the turning ch, Turn. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, *[puff st, ch 3, puff st, ch 3, puff st] in the next sc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc,* repeat from * to * to the end of the row, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have a total of 39 (41, 43) rows or until your desired height is reached. Keep in mind that the panels will be blocked, which will stretch it slightly. Assembly Instructions Once all your pieces are blocked, it is time to assemble. Fold your sleeves in half lengthwise - right sides together - and whip stitch up the seam. Place your front panels on top of your back panel - right sides together, secure with stitch markers to ensure they don’t move while you are sewing them along the top and up each side. Be sure to leave an opening for the arm hole where you will attach your sleeve. Sew your sleeves in place. Turn your garment right side out. Now add a simple border around the entire piece by joining your yarn in any stitch along the bottom and ch 3. Round 1: Hdc evenly around the entire piece, joining with a sl st to the first hdc. Repeat sequence on the cuff of each sleeve. Sew your buttons in desired location. Designed by Hands of Zeal Crochet Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/04/2026 Danza de Luz is an elegant spring wrap that captures the gentle movement of light in every stitch. Crafted with flowing lines of twisted stitches, the design creates a delicate play of texture-subtle yet striking, like sunlight dancing across warm evening air. Light and breathable, it’s the perfect companion for cool spring days and summer nights, draping effortlessly with a refined romantic feel. DIFFICULTY SIZE: one size FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Unblocked: 22” wide x 53” long Blocked: 24” wide x 56” long MATERIALS Yarn A - 1 skein Circulo Alpaya - color Oatmeal (7881); Yarn B - 2 skeins - Circulo Alpaya - color Natural (20); Yarn C - 2 skeins - Circulo Alpaya - color Breath (3346); Yarn D - 2 skeins - Circulo Alpaya - color Crystal (7694); Needles: US 7 / 4.50 mm 24” circular needles. GAUGE 16 sts x24 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch, before blocking PATTERN NOTES You will cut the yarn when changing colors. Be sure to leave a 6” tail when cutting yarn. STITCH GUIDE RT (right twist): K2tog, leaving the original stitches on the left-hand needle, then knit the first stitch only and slip both stitches from the needle. LT (left twist): Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise, slip both stitches back to left-hand needle in their new orientation; knit into the back of the second stitch, then knit into the back of both stitches together and slip both stitches from needle. SSP (decrease): bring the yarn to the front of your work, slip two stitches one-by-one knitwise, transfer them back to the left needle, and purl them together through the back loop. ABBREVIATIONS CO- cast on K- knit P- purl P2tog- purl two together LT- left twist RT- right twist RS- right side SSP- slip, slip, purl YO- yarn over Rep- repeat St(s)- stitch(es) BO- bind off INSTRUCTIONS - With yarn A, CO 128 sts. Set-Up (with yarn A) Rows 1-7: Knit Section 1- Woven Filled Row 1 (RS): With yarn B, Knit. Row 2: K3, p to last 3 sts; k3. Row 3: K4, * LT, RT twice, LT, RT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 4: K5, * p8, k2; rep from * to the 3 sts; k3. Row 5: K3, p2, * [LT, RT] twice, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts; k3. Row 6: K6, p6, *k4, p6; rep from * to last 6 sts; k6. Row 7: K3, p3, RT, LT, RT, * p4, RT, LT, RT; rep from * to last 6 sts; p3, k3. Row 8: K6, p6, * k4, p6; rep from * to last 6 sts; k6. Row 9: K3, p2, * [RT, LT] twice, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts; k3. Row 10: K3, * k2, p8; rep from * to last 5 sts; k5. Row 11: K4, * RT, LT, RT twice, LT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 12: K3, p to last 3 sts; k3. Row 13: K3, * LT twice, RT, LT, RT; rep from * to last 5 sts; LT, k3 Row 14: K3, p5, k2, * p8, k2; rep from * to last 8 sts; p5, k3. Row 15: K4, * LT, RT, p2, LT, RT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 16: K3, p4, k4, * p6, k4; rep from * to last 7 sts; p4 k3. Row 17: K3, RT, * LT, p4, LT, RT; rep from * to last 3 sts; k3. Row 18: K3, p4, * k4, p6; rep from * to last 7 sts; p4, k3. Row 19: K4, * LT, RT, p2, RT, LT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 20: K3, p5, * K2, p8; rep from * to last 10 sts; k2, p5, k3. Row 21: K3, * LT, [RT, LT] twice, rep from * to last 5 sts; LT, k3. Row 22: K3, * p to last 3 sts; k3. [Rep rows 3-22, once more, then move to section 2] Section 2 - Garter Band (Always w/yarn A) Rows 1-6: Knit Section 3 - Open Lattice (Always with yarn C) Row 1 (RS): Knit Row 2: K3, *p to last 3 sts; k3. Row 3: K4, * RT, LT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 4: K3, p1, *ssp, yo twice, p2tog; rep from * to last 4 sts; p1, k3. Row 5: K3, LT, * (k1, p1) into double yo, LT; rep from * to last 3 sts; k3. Row 6: K3, * p to last 3 sts; k3. Row 7: K4, * LT, RT; rep from * to last 4 sts; k4. Row 8: K3, p1, yo, p2tog, ssp, * yo twice, p2tog, ssp; rep from * to last 4 sts; yo, p1, k3. Row 9: K4, p1, RT, * (k1,p1) into double yo, RT; rep from * to last 5 sts; k5. Row 10: K3, *p to last 3 sts: k3. [Rep rows 3-10 four more times] - Rep Section 2. - Rep Section 1 (with yarn D). - Rep Section 2. - Rep Section 3. - Rep Section 2 - Rep Section 1 (with yarn D). - Rep Section 2. - Rep Section 3. - Rep Section 2. - Rep Section 1 (with yarn B). - Rep Section 2. - BO purlwise. - Weave in all ends and block. -Using the remainder of your yarn, cut 10-12” strands and create 5-6” tassels for a more whimsical look. by Louis Boria Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

05/06/2025 Yarn: Color A: 2 skeins of Aussie – Australian Merino by Círculo Yarns in Granite (8117) Color B: 1 skein of Aussie - Australian Merino by Círculo Yarns in Saffron (1325) Color C: 1 skein of Aussie - Australian Merino by Círculo Yarns in Super Black (8289) Abbreviations: k: knit p: purl k uf: Take your right-hand knitting needle and go under the Color B floats before knitting the next stitch, then knit into the stitch. yo: yarn over increase st(s): stitch(es) inc: increase(d) m: stitch marker pm: place stitch marker lm: slip stitch marker sl wyif: slip stitch purlwise without knitting, keeping the working yarn in front sl: slip stitch purlwise without knitting, keeping the working yarn in back Finished Dimensions: 30” (76 cm) deep x 69” (175.25 cm) across Gauge: 18 sts x 26 rows = 4” (10 cm) Needles: US8 (5.0 mm) 32” (80 cm) circular needles or longer, or size needed to obtain gauge. Instructions: Garter Tab Cast On and Setup: Using Color A, cast on 3 sts. Knit the next 6 rows. Without turning the work, rotate the work 90 degrees and pick up 3 sts along the edge. Without turning the work, rotate the work another 90 degrees and pick up 3 sts along the cast-on edge. (9 sts total) Alternate Cast On: If you’d rather skip the garter tab, start by casting on 9 sts. K all. Setup Row: Turn the work. P3, pm, p1, pm, p1, pm, p1, pm, p3. Section 1: Row 1 (RS): K3, slm,yo, k to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc, 13 sts total) Row 2 (WS): K3, slm, p to m, slm m, p1, slm m, p to m, slm, k3. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 forty-one (41) more times. (177 sts total) Section 2: Row 3 (RS): Using Color B, k3, slm, yo, *k1, sl5 wyif, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, *k1, sl5 wyif, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 4 (WS): K3, slm, p2, *sl5, p1, rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, slm, p1, slm, p2, *sl5, p1, rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, slm, k3. Row 5: Using Color A, k3, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 6: K3, slm, p to m, slm m, p1, slm m, p to m, slm, k3. Row 7: K3, slm, yo, k5, *k uf, k5, rep from * to 5 sts before m, k to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k5, *k uf, k5, rep from * to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 8: K3, slm, p to m, slm m, p1, slm m, p to m, slm, k3. Repeat Rows 3-8 nine (9) more times. (297 sts total) Repeat Rows 3-5 once more. Cut Color A, leaving a tail. Joining Color C, repeat rows 6-8. (309 sts total) Section 3: Row 9 (RS): Using Color B, k3, slm, yo, *k1, sl5 wyif, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, *k1, sl5 wyif, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 10 (WS): K3, slm, p2, *sl5, p1, rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, slm, p1, slm, p2, *sl5, p1, rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, slm, k3. Row 11: Using Color C, k3, slm,yo, k to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 12: K3, slm, p to m, slm m, p1, slm m, p to m, slm, k3. Row 13: K3, slm, yo, k5, *k uf, k5, rep from * to 5 sts before m, k to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k5, *k uf, k5, rep from * to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 14: K3, slm, p to m, slm m, p1, slm m, p to m, slm, k3. Repeat Rows 9-14 five (5) more times. (381 sts total). Cut Color B, leaving a tail. Border: Row 15 (RS): Using Color C, k3, slm, *k to m, yo, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 16 ( WS): K to end. Row 17: K3, slm, yo, k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to marker, yo, slm, k1,, slm, yo, *k2, p2, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 18: K3, slm, *p2, k2, rep from * to 3 st before m, p2, k1, slm, p1, slm, k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to m, slm, k3. Row 19: K3, slm, yo, *k2, p2, rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, *k2, p2 rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 20: K3, slm, k1, * p2, k2, rep from * to m, slm, p1, slm, *k2, p2, rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, slm, k3. Row 21: K3, slm, yo, p1, *k2, p2, rep from * to m, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, * p2, k2, rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc) Row 22: K3, slm, *k2, p2, rep from * to 3 sts before m, k2, p1, slm, p1, slm, p1, *k2, p2, rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, slm, k3. Row 23: k3, slm, yo, *p2, K2, rep from * to 3 sts before m, p2, k1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, k1, *p2, k2, rep to last 3, p2, k1, yo, slm, k3. (4 sts inc, 401 total) Bind off loosely in pattern. Wet block to finished dimensions. By Ana Campos Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/25/2025 Level of difficulty SIZES · Using Círculo Amigurumi yarn, 2.0 mm crochet hook, and X single crochet, your pieces will measure approximately: o Mama Duck: 4.92 in (12.5 cm). o Baby Duck: 1.97 in (5 cm). MATERIALS AND TOOLS · Círculo Amigurumi yarn in colors: o Cream #1112; o Off-white #8176. · Círculo Amigurumi Slim yarn in colors: o Dark Cheddar #4131; o Pink Pepper #7078. · Embroidery thread Maxi Mouliné color Brown #882 (for details). · 1.8 and 2.0 mm Crochet hooks. · Embroidery needles (Tapestry no. 22, Crewel no. 9, and Milliner no. 5). · Fiberfill. · Stitch markers. · Sewing pins. · Scissors. · Pliers. · Fabric glue. · Fabric stiffener (optional). · Blush (for cheeks - optional). ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms) · BLO: back loops only. · Ch: chain stitch. · Dc: double crochet. · Dec: single crochet decrease (two sc closed together). · Hdc: half double crochet. · Hdc-inc: half double crochet increase (two hdc into the same stitch). · Inc: single crochet increase (two sc into the same stitch). · Mini picot: picot stitch crocheted with two ch (two ch and then make a slst into the back bump of the second ch from the hook). · Rnd: round(s). · Sc: single crochet. · Slst: slip stitch crochet. · St: stitch(es). · Tr: treble crochet. · [...] x n: repeat the instructions, within brackets, n times. · …: make all stitches, within asterisks, into the same base stitch. · (...): total number of stitches in a round/row. Crocheting Instructions GENERAL NOTE: This pattern uses two types of yarn (Amigurumi and Amigurumi Slim) and two hook sizes throughout the project. Pay close attention to the yarn and hook recommendations specified in each section of the pattern to achieve the best results. During the development of this project, 1.8 mm and 2.0 mm hooks were used; however, you may choose other combinations, such as 2.0 mm and 2.2 mm, depending on your tension and personal preference. If you choose to work the project using only one type of yarn or a single hook size, please note that the finish and overall result may differ from what is shown in the photos, as some parts may become disproportionate. MAMA DUCK HEAD AND BODY In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. We will start with the head. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 7 inc (14). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28). Rnd. 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 6–12 (7 ROUNDS): 35 sc (35). Rnd. 13: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (28). Rnd. 14: [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 15: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 7 (14). Rnd. 16: 14 sc (14). Stuff the head with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you go. From this point on, we'll start the body. Rnd. 17: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 18–20 (3 ROUNDS): 21 sc (21). Rnd. 21: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28).Rnd. 22: 28 sc (28). Rnd. 23: 4 sc, [1 inc, 1 sc] x 3, 18 sc (31). Rnd. 24: 20 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (33). Rnd. 25: 4 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 3, 11 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc (37). Rnd. 26: 37 sc (37). Rnd. 27: 5 sc, [1 inc, 3 sc] x 3, 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (42). Rnd. 28: 28 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 3, 5 sc (45). Rnd. 29: 6 sc, [1 inc, 4 sc] x 3, 24 sc (48). Rnd. 30: 48 sc (48). Rnd. 31: 7 sc, [1 inc, 5 sc] x 3, 23 sc (51). Rnd. 32: 11 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 32 sc (53). Rnd. 33: 53 sc (53). Rnd. 34: 8 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, ch 3. Working back into the foundation chains, starting into the second ch from the hook, make 2 sc, then 1 sc in the same st where the chains were started. Continue around the body with 6 sc, 1 inc, 30 sc (58 – ch don’t count toward the stitch total). Rnd. 35: 17 sc, on the other side of the foundation chains work 1 sc, 1 inc. Continue around with 1 inc, 40 sc (62). Note: The foundation chains mentioned in Rnd. 35 refer to the chains worked in Rnd. 34, which are now being worked along the opposite side. No new chains are made in this round. Rnd. 36: 62 sc (62). Rnd. 37: 18 sc, 2 dec, 18 sc, [1 dec, 8 sc] x 2, 1 dec (57). Rnd. 38: [8 sc, 1 dec] x 3, 27 sc (54). Rnd. 39: 11 sc, [1 dec, 3 sc] x 3, 9 sc, [1 dec, 6 sc] x 2, 1 dec, 1 sc (48). Rnd. 40: 14 sc, 2 dec, 12 sc, [2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (42). Rnd. 41: 1 dec, 11 sc, 2 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (36). Rnd. 42: 1 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 2, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (30). Rnd. 43: 1 dec, 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec, [1 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (21). Rnd. 44: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 2, 2 dec, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 3, 1 dec (13). Rnd. 45: 1 dec, [1 sc, 2 dec] x 2, 1 sc (8). Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LEFT WING In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc (10). Rnd. 3: 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (12). Rnd. 4: 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 15 sc, 1 inc (17). Rnd. 7: 1 inc, 16 sc (18). Rnd. 8: 17 sc, 1 inc (19). Rnd. 9: 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc (21). Rnd. 10: 1 inc, 8 sc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 1 inc (23). Rnd. 11: 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (23). Flatten the wing opening so that the stitches line up. The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 12: working through both layers to close the opening, make 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 5 dc into the next st, 1 hdc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 slst (19). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. RIGHT WING In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc (10). Rnd. 3: 2 inc, 8 sc (12). Rnd. 4: 1 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 2 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 11 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (18). Rnd. 7: 18 sc (18). Rnd. 8: 12 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc (20). Rnd. 9: 13 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc (22). Rnd. 10: 3 sc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (24). Rnd. 11: 3 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc (23). Rnd. 12: work only 4 sc (4). Leave the remaining 19 st unworked. Flatten the wing opening so that the stitches line up. The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 13: working through both layers to close the opening, make 1 slst, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 hdc, 5 dc into the next st, 1 sc, 1 slst, 1 sc, 3 hdc into the next st, 1 sc (19). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. BILL In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: starting into the second ch from the hook, make 1 inc, 1 sc, 3 sc in the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain and work 2 sc (8). Rnd. 2: 2 inc, 1 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (14). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS): 14 sc (14). Rnd. 5: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (16). Rnd. 6: 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 slst, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 slst (19). Invisible fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. The bill doesn’t need to be stuffed. LEGS (MAKE 2) The legs will be worked in three parts. PART 1 – SHANK In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 BLO-sc (6). Rnd. 3–4 (2 ROUNDS): 6 sc (6). Rnd. 5: 6 BLO-sc (6). Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Stuff the leg with fiberfill. PART 2 - THIGH In color Off-white (Amigurumi #8176) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: pull up a loop into the first remaining front loop of Rnd. 5 of the shank (Part 1) and work [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Note: The remaining front loops correspond to the loops that were left unworked during Rnd. 5. Rnd. 2: 1 sc, 1 hdc-inc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc-inc (13). Rnd. 3: work only 2 sc (2). Leave the remaining 11 st unworked. Invisible fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. PART 3 – WEBBED FOOT In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 sc (6). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3 (9). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 3 (12). Rnd. 5–6 (2 ROUNDS): 12 sc (12). Rnd. 7: work only 2 sc (2). Leave the remaining 10 st unworked. Flatten the webbed foot opening so that the stitches line up. The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Rnd. 8: working through both layers to close the opening, make [*1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc*, 1 slst into the next st] x 3 (9). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the remaining yarn through the webbed foot, bringing it out between Rnd. 1 and 2, on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, where it will later be used for sewing. Using sewing pins, center Rnd. 1 of the shank (Part 1) over Rnd. 1 to 3 of the webbed foot (Part 3). The right side of the foot ruffle should face toward the shank. With a tapestry needle and using the remaining front loops of Rnd. 2 of the shank, sew it firmly in place. BONNET HAT In color Pink Pepper (Amigurumi Slim #7078) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. The bonnet hat will be worked in four parts. Note: Although the bonnet hat is crocheted with Amigurumi Slim yarn, to make the piece softer, use the same hook size used for the body. PART 1 – BASE Rnd. 1: work 7 sc in a magic ring (7). Rnd. 2: 7 inc (14). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (21). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 7 (28). Rnd. 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 7 (35). Rnd. 6: 35 sc (35). Rnd. 7: [2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc] x 7 (42). Rnd. 8–10 (3 ROUNDS): 42 sc (42). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 2 – HAT BRIM Ch 34. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: start in the second ch from the hook, 32 sc, 3 sc into the last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, [2 hdc, 1 hdc-inc] x 10, 1 hdc, 1 inc (78). Rnd. 2: 1 inc, 31 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, [4 hdc, 1 hdc-inc] x 7, 4 hdc, 1 sc, 2 inc (91). Rnd. 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 31 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 3, 2 sc, 45 hdc, 1 sc, [1 sc, 1 inc] x 2 (97). Work 1 sc to shift the end of the last round. Don’t fasten off. Now, we'll join the brim to the base of the hat. Position the brim (Part 2) around the base (Part 1), keeping the wrong side of the brim facing outward and the right side of the brim facing the right side of the base. Align the first st of Rnd. 10 of the base with the next free st of the brim. This will be the starting point for joining. When the two parts are overlapped, you will see four visible loops (two from the base and two from the brim). Working only through the outer loops of each part and always inserting the hook from the inside of the base toward the outside of the brim, join the pieces by working 35 sc. Don’t fasten off. Note: When inserting the hook, make sure you are picking up only the outer loops, and be careful not to skip stitches while joining. The remaining inner loops will not be worked and will be visible once the brim is turned out, creating the detail of the hat. The join will be located on the inside of the hat. With the base joined to the brim, turn the brim right side out. We will now work the finishing round around the entire edge of the hat. Rnd. 4: without turning the piece, return to the brim and 1 sc into the first free st after the join (this corresponds to the 37th st of Rnd. 3 of the brim). Place a stitch marker in this st (Marker A). Continue working [ch 2, 1 slst] x 60, then ch 2, 1 sc. Place a stitch marker in this last st (Marker B). Next, return to the base of the hat and work 7 slst to complete the round. Note: If your st are very loose and you prefer a firmer edge on the brim, work only ch 1 instead of ch 2 in the repeat sequence, or use a one-size smaller crochet hook while working around the brim. Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 3 – BOW Ch 22. Ensure the chain isn't twisted, then insert the hook into the first ch. Join the foundation chains with 1 slst to form a ring. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd. 1–2 (2 ROUNDS): [1 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 2 slst] x 2 (22). Invisible fasten off and weave in the yarn end. PART 4 – BOW TIES AND LEGS Leaving approx. 4.72 in (12 cm) of yarn tail at the beginning, ch 13. Tie 1: starting in the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 12 slst, ch 11. Don’t fasten off. Leg 1: return to the fourth ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, ch 11. Don’t fasten off. Leg 2: return again to the fourth ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, ch 13. Don’t fasten off. Tie 2: return to the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 12 slst. Fasten off, leaving approx. 4.72 in (12 cm) of yarn tail for finishing. Note: At the end, you will have an X-shaped piece. The ties will be attached to the lower part of the bonnet, and the two legs will form the ends of the bow. BONNET HAT ASSEMBLY Position Part 4 inside the bow (Part 3), with the two upper ties facing upward and the two legs facing downward. To shape the bow, use the remaining yarn tails to wrap two tight turns around the center of the bow (Part 3), passing between the upper ties and the lower legs to create the bow shape. The wraps should embrace all parts together. Then, tie a knot on the wrong side of the bow, fasten off, and weave in the yarn end. To ensure better fixation of the knot, apply a small drop of glue to the wrong side of the bow. ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING TOUCHES Embroider the bill details Using a milliner needle and 4 strands of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider two French knots, with three wraps each, on the upper part of the beak (the area with two small waves), between Rnd. 5 and 6, leaving 5 st of distance between them. Sew the bill to the head Using sewing pins, center the bill on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, over Rnd. 9 and 12, covering 6 st in width. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. Gently shape the bill with your fingers so it curves slightly. Embroider the eyes and eyelashes Using a crewel needle and 1 strand of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider the eyes and eyelashes over Rnd. 8 and 9. Each eye should be approx. 4 st in width and just over 1 round in height, leaving 8 st of distance between them, and placed 1 st away from the bill. Sew the wings to the sides of the body Using sewing pins, position the wings on the sides of the body, slightly angled, between Rnd. 24 and 35, keeping the magic ring area facing upward and the ruffles facing downward. Keep a distance of 18 st, counted on Rnd. 32, between the wings across the belly area. The pointier parts of the wings, located in the ruffled section, should face toward the back. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly only the top and the rounded edge of the wing that faces the belly. The back edge of the wing may be left unsewn. Sew the legs to the body Using sewing pins, position the legs on both sides of the front part of the body, between Rnd. 35 and 38, leaving a distance of 11 st between them, counted on the front of the body on Rnd. 36. The webbed feet should be pointing upward, with the soles facing forward. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly in place. If necessary, add fiberfill to the leg before finishing the sewing.Note: Before sewing, check that the piece sits properly with the body and the heels touching the surface. Adjust the position of the legs, if necessary, to ensure balance. If you wish, apply blush to the cheeks. Stiffen the bow legs To keep the bow legs straight and firm, apply a small drop of fabric glue or fabric stiffener to the wrong side of the legs. Attach the bow ties to the bonnet hat This piece can easily be assembled inside out (with the wrong side of the bow facing outward once the hat is worn). To ensure correct positioning, it is recommended to place the bonnet on the Mama Duck’s head first and define the sewing points with the hat already positioned. Using a tapestry needle and a piece of Pink Pepper yarn (Amigurumi Slim #7078), attach the bow ties as follows: · The right tie (when the piece is viewed from the front) should be sewn immediately next to the last sc of Rnd. 4 of the brim, where Marker B was placed, right at the corner formed by the join between the brim and the base. Place the bonnet on the head and then proceed to sew the left tie. · The left tie should be sewn on the opposite side of the bonnet, immediately next to the first sc worked along Rnd. 4 of the brim, where Marker A was placed, right at the corner formed by the join between the brim and the base. Note: The bonnet hat is not intended to be removable, although it can be placed on and taken off the head. THE MAMA DUCK IS READY! BABY DUCK HEAD AND BODY In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. We will start with the head. Rnd. 1: work 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Rnd. 2: 6 inc (12). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 4: [1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc] x 6 (24). Rnd. 5–8 (4 ROUNDS): 24 sc (24). Rnd. 9: [1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc] x 6 (18). Rnd. 10: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12). Stuff the head with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you go. From this point on, we'll start the body. Rnd. 11: ch 6. Working back into the foundation chains, starting into the second ch from the hook, make 5 sc. Continue around the body with [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6. On the other side of the foundation chains work 4 sc, 1 inc into the last st (29 - ch don’t count toward the stitch total). Rnd. 12: 1 inc, 4 sc, [1 inc, 2 sc] x 6, 4 sc, 2 inc (38). Rnd. 13: 38 sc (38). Rnd. 14: 1 dec, 34 sc, 1 dec (36). Rnd. 15: 6 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 6, 4 sc, 1 dec (29). Rnd. 16: 1 dec, 25 sc, 1 dec (27). Rnd. 17: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4, 1 sc, [1 dec, 1 sc] x 4, 1 dec (18). Rnd. 18: [1 dec, 1 sc] x 3, [1 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (12). Rnd. 19: 6 dec (6). Note: If, while working Rnd. 19, you notice that the base is becoming pointy, work only 5 dec in this round and then fasten off. Add more stuffing if needed. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. WINGS (MAKE 2) In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd. 1: start in the third ch from the hook with 1 dc, 1 hdc, into the last st work 1 hdc, 1 dc,1 mini picot, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, 1 hdc, 1 dc (8 – mini picot doesn’t count toward the stitch total). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, make a false st by passing the needle through the first st of the Rnd. 1 and then inserting it back into the center of the same st where you came from. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing. BILL In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Rnd. 2: 5 inc (10). Rnd. 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 5 (15). Invisible fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Using your fingers, gently shape the bill into a cone shape. LEGS (MAKE 2) The legs will be worked in two parts. PART 1 – THIGH In color Cream (Amigurumi #1112) and a 2.0 mm crochet hook. Rnd. 1: work 5 sc in a magic ring (5). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Tighten the magic ring as usual. To create the button-like effect on the thigh, fold the piece in half, keeping the wrong side facing inward. Using a tapestry needle, work a false stitch by passing the needle through the first st worked and then inserting it back into the center of the same st where you came from. Gently tighten the loop. Don’t weave in the yarn end, as it will be used later for sewing. PART 2 - WEBBED FOOT In color Dark Cheddar (Amigurumi Slim #4131) and a 1.8 mm crochet hook. Ch 4. Rnd. 1: starting in the second ch from the hook and, working only into the back bumps of the ch, make 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc (3). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the remaining yarn ends through the magic ring of the thigh (Part 1) and secure them firmly in place. ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING TOUCHES Sew the bill to the head Using sewing pins, center the bill on the head, on the opposite side of the start of the rounds, over Rnd. 4 and 7. With a tapestry needle, sew it firmly in place. If necessary, stuff the bill with fiberfill before closing the seam. Embroider the eyes Using a crewel needle and 1 strand of brown embroidery thread (Maxi Mouliné #882), embroider the eyes over Rnd. 5. Each eye should be approx. 2 st in width, leaving 2 st of distance from the bill. Sew the wings to the sides of the body Using sewing pins, position the wings on the sides of the body, slightly angled, between Rnd. 13 and 16, with the rounded edge facing forward and the pointed edge facing backward. Keep a distance of 12 st between the wings, counted on Rnd. 14, across the belly area. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly only the rounded edge of the wing. Sew the legs to the body Using sewing pins, position the legs on both sides of the lower part of the body, between Rnd. 17 and 18, leaving approx. 2 visible st between them, counted on Rnd. 18. The webbed feet should face forward. Using a tapestry needle, sew firmly in place. Note: Before sewing, check that the piece stands upright, with the back of the body and the feet touching the surface. Adjust the position of the legs, if necessary, to ensure balance. Stiffen the webbed feet To keep the feet straight and firm, apply a small drop of fabric glue or fabric stiffener to the wrong side of the feet (soles). If you wish, apply blush to the cheeks. THE BABY DUCK IS READY! Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

We’re bringing this special edition back — this time as a gift. Our Tricot & Crochet Magazine is now available in a free digital format on our website. Inside, you’ll discover 12 exclusive knitting and crochet designs, thoughtfully created to be size-inclusive and accessible to all makers. Each piece was designed by 6 talented artisans based in the USA, bringing together creativity, technique, and inspiration. Download it now and enjoy every stitch. eBook Here Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/25/2025 Level of difficulty Approximate Size: 9.8 in (25 cm) tall. Materials: 1 skein of Amigurumi yarn – Colors: 5800 (Pistachio), 1289 (Canary), 1730 (Candy Yellow), 7563 (Chantilly), and 8001 (White);; Scraps of Amigurumi yarn – Color: 8990 (Black); Safety eyes (12 mm) – Black; Fiberfill stuffing; Crochet hooks – B-1 (2.0 mm) and C-2 (2.5 mm); Tapestry needle; Hot glue stick or coated galvanized wire; Stitch marker. Examples of how to read this pattern: 0th round: 0 sc; → Single round (follow the indicated stitches)0th and 0th round: 0 sc; → 2 identical rounds (follow the indicated stitches) 0th to 0th round: 0 sc; → Rounds with the same sequence (follow the indicated stitches) 0th round: 0 sc, 1 inc, (00 sc, 2 inc) 5x, 0 sc = XX sc; → Round with repetitions in parentheses (follow the indicated stitches and repeat what is inside the parentheses the requested number of times) 0th round: *0 sc, 1 dec* = XX sc; → Round with repetition throughout (repeat what is between asterisks for the entire round) Stitches Used: Increase = inc; Triple Increase = incT; Chain = ch; Decrease = dec; Half Double Crochet = hdc; Double Crochet = dc; Slip Stitch = sl st; Single Crochet = sc. Instructions: Legs (2), Body, and Head Start with Amigurumi yarn 5800 (Pistachio) and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook. Begin with the legs. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring; Rnd 2: 6 sc; Rnd 3: 6 inc = 12 sc; Rnd 4: 12 sc; Rnd 5: *3 sc, 1 inc* = 15 sc Add fiberfill stuffing as you go. Rnd 6 to 24: 15 sc; Fasten off the first leg. Make the second leg in the same way and do not cut the yarn. In the next round, join the legs. Make 4 chains. Rnd 25: 1 sc joining to the first leg, 14 sc on the first leg, 4 sc on the chains, 15 sc on the second leg = 34 sts; Rnd 26: 4 sc on the other side of the chains, 34 sc = 38 sc; Rnd 27 to 35: 38 sc; Add fiberfill stuffing to the legs. Change to Amigurumi yarn 8001 (White) Rnd 36: 38 sc; Change to Amigurumi yarn 1289 (Canary) Rnd 37 to 39: 38 sc in back loops only; Rnd 40 and 41: 38 sc; Rnd 42: *17 sc, 1 dec* = 36 sc; Rnd 43: *4 sc, 1 dec* = 30 sc; Rnd 44: 30 sc; Rnd 45: *3 sc, 1 dec* = 24 sc; Change to Amigurumi yarn 7563 (Chantilly) Rnd 46 (in back loops only): *2 sc, 1 dec* = 18 sc; Rnd 47: *1 sc, 1 dec* = 12 sc; Leave on hold and make the waist and collar details. Waist Detail With Amigurumi yarn 1289 (Canary) and a C-2 (2.5 mm) hook. With the legs facing you, insert the yarn at the back of the waistband in the first free loop of round 38 and repeat: *(ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sl st)* Follow this sequence to the end of the free loops of round 39 at the waist. Fasten off and weave in the ends inside the doll. Note: Leave the free loops of round 37 unworked, as they will be used later to attach the skirt petals. Collar Detail With Amigurumi yarn 5800 (Pistachio) and a C-2 (2.5 mm) hook. With the head opening facing you, insert the yarn at the back of the body, in the first free loop of round 46 (in the yellow loops), and work: Rnd 1: 24 sc; Rnd 2: *1 incT in dc, 1 sl st* = 48 sts; Fasten off and weave in the ends inside the doll. Body Continuation Continue with Amigurumi yarn 7563 (Chantilly) and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook. Resume where you left off. Rnd 48 and 49: 12 sc; Begin the head. Rnd 50: *1 sc, 1 inc* = 18 sc; Rnd 51: 1 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 1 sc = 24 sc; Rnd 52: *1 sc, 1 inc* = 36 sc; Rnd 53: *5 sc, 1 inc* = 42 sc; Rnd 54: 3 sc, 1 inc, (6 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 3 sc = 48 sc; Rnd 55: *7 sc, 1 inc* = 54 sc; Rnd 56 to 70: 54 sc; Insert the safety eyes between rounds 59 and 60, with 9 visible stitches between them after placement. Embroider the eye whites with Amigurumi yarn 8001 (White). Embroider the eyelashes and eyebrows with Amigurumi yarn 8990 (Black). Using Amigurumi yarn 7563 (Chantilly), embroider the nose. Insert the needle one round below the eyes. Make a horizontal stitch, catching about 3 base stitches. Then pass the yarn several times over this stitch, back and forth, until it is completely covered. Fasten off, hiding the yarn inside the head. For neck support, insert a piece of hot glue stick or coated galvanized wire so that it sits inside both the head and the body. Fill around the support with fiberfill stuffing as you continue crocheting. Rnd 71: *7 sc, 1 dec* = 48 sc; Rnd 72: 3 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) 5x, 3 sc = 42 sc; Rnd 73: *5 sc, 1 dec* = 36 sc; Rnd 74: 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) 5x, 2 sc = 30 sc; Rnd 75: *3 sc, 1 dec* = 24 sc; Rnd 76: 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) 5x, 1 sc = 18 sc; Finish stuffing with fiberfill. Rnd 77: *1 sc, 1 dec* = 12 sc; Rnd 78: 6 dec = 6 sc; Fasten off with a false magic ring. Eye Sculpting – Step by Step Mark the inner side of each eye, on the side closest to the center of the face, facing the nose. Choose a point at the top of the head (which will be covered by the hat) to start and finish the process. Insert the needle through the top of the head and bring it to the inner side of the first eye.Pull the yarn through, leaving a tail at the top of the head (to tie a knot later).Insert the needle one stitch below and go straight to the second eye. Insert the needle on the inner side of the second eye, then bring it back to the top of the head, following the same path as the first eye. As you pull this loop, you will create the indentation in both eyes at the same time. Pull both ends of the yarn firmly until the eyes reach the desired depth.Tie two or three tight knots at the top of the head and hide the excess yarn between the stitches. Arms (2) With Amigurumi yarn 7563 (Chantilly) and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook. Rnd 1: 5 sc in a magic ring; Rnd 2: 5 inc = 10 sc; Rnd 3: 10 sc; Rnd 4: *3 sc, 1 dec* = 8 sc; Rnd 5 to 19: 8 sc; No need to add stuffing. Fold and close the sides with 4 sc. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make the other arm the same way. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, positioning them approximately two rounds below the green collar. Hair Base With Amigurumi yarn 1730 (Candy Yellow) and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring; Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sc; Rnd 3: *1 sc, 1 inc* = 18 sc; Rnd 4: 1 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 1 sc = 24 sc; Rnd 5: *3 sc, 1 inc* = 30 sc; Rnd 6: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 2 sc = 36 sc; Rnd 7: *5 sc, 1 inc* = 42 sc; Rnd 8: 3 sc, 1 inc, (6 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 3 sc = 48 sc; Rnd 9: *7 sc, 1 inc* = 54 sc; Rnd 10: *26 sc, 1 inc* = 56 sc; Rnd 11 to 17: 56 sc; Switch to a C-2 (2.5 mm) hook. Rnd 18: 25 sc, (ch 13, skip 2 ch (count as 1 hdc), 1 inc in hdc to the end of the chains, 2 sc on the hair base) 4x, 23 sc.Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Position the round hair base centered on top of the doll’s head.Arrange the curls at the front of the face, placing three curls on one side and one curl on the opposite side. Use pins to temporarily secure the base and curls in the desired position.With a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, begin sewing the hair base around the doll’s head.If desired, add a few small hand stitches to keep the curls in place.Fasten off by passing the needle through the inside of the head to hide the yarn. Hair Bun With Amigurumi yarn 1730 (Candy Yellow) and a C-2 (2.5 mm) hook. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring; Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sc; Rnd 3: *1 sc, 1 inc* = 18 sc; Rnd 4: 1 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 1 sc = 24 sc; Rnd 5: *3 sc, 1 inc* = 30 sc; Rnd 6: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) 5x, 2 sc = 36 sc; Rnd 7 to 10: 36 sc; Rnd 11: 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) 5x, 2 sc = 30 sc; Rnd 12: *3 sc, 1 dec* = 24 sc; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Center the bun on the top of the doll’s head. With a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, begin sewing the bun onto the doll’s hair. Fasten off by passing the needle through the inside of the head to hide the yarn. Leaves (2) With Amigurumi yarn 5800 (Pistachio) and a C-2 (2.5 mm) hook. Ch 10, skip 1 ch; Rnd 1: 1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, (1 sl st, ch 2, 1 sl st) in the last ch; on the other side of the chains work: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st = 20 sts; Make the second leaf in the same way. Position the leaves side by side, aligning the bottom tips. With the green yarn, make a few small stitches to sew these tips together, forming a “V”. Position the leaves at the base of the bun as shown in the image and sew them in place. Fasten off by passing the needle through the inside of the head to hide the yarn. Skirt Petals (9) With Amigurumi yarn 8001 (White) and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring; Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sc; Rnd 3 and 4: 12 sc; Rnd 5: *3 sc, 1 inc* = 15 sc; Rnd 6: 15 sc; Rnd 7: *4 sc, 1 inc* = 18 sc; Rnd 8 and 9: 18 sc; Rnd 10: *4 sc, 1 dec* = 15 sc; Rnd 11: 15 sc; Rnd 12: *3 sc, 1 dec* = 12 sc; Rnd 13: *2 sc, 1 dec* = 9 sc; No need to add stuffing. Fold and close the sides with 4 sc. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the petals using the free loops from round 37 of the body, which were left for this step. Sew one petal next to the other, working all the way around the body. Designer by: Gabrielle Oliveira (@estrelinhapreciosa) Pattern Review: Patty Wolf Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/24/2025 Level of difficulty Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) Approximate final measurements: • Chest circumference: 34.75 (38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.5, 54.25) in / 88 (98, 108, 118, 128, 138) cm Materials: 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins of Lucky Feet – Colors: • 3636 (Cherry) • 5767 (Brazilian Green) • 6013 (Distant Paradise) • 7030 (Mustard); Círculo knitting needle – US 4 (3.5 mm). Stitches used: • 1x1 Rib: k1, p1, k1 • Stockinette stitch: knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side. • Pattern stitch: follow the chart. Gauge: a 4 in (10 cm) square in the pattern stitch following the chart on US 4 (3.5 mm) needles = 22 sts x 33 rows. Instructions Instructions Front and back – Worked together. With color 3636 (Cherry), cast on 176 (185, 187, 189, 198, 202) sts on US 4 (3.5 mm) needles and work in the pattern stitch following the chart in the following color sequence: 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25) rows with 3636 (Cherry) 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25) rows with 5767 (Brazilian Green) 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25) rows with 6013 (Distant Paradise) 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25) rows with 7030 (Mustard). At this point, work 8 (10, 10, 14, 10, 14) rows in stockinette stitch with color 6013 (Distant Paradise) and bind off. Make two identical pieces. Finishing: Sew Front/Back: Sew the two pieces together along the bind-off row (6013 — Distant Paradise) for 7.5 (8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.75, 10.25) in / 19 (21, 22, 23, 25, 26) cm on each side (see pattern template). Sew sides: Sew 8.25 (8.25, 8, 7.75, 7.75, 7.75) in / 21 (21, 20.5, 20, 20, 20) cm on each side, leaving the remaining section open to form the armholes. Edge: With color 5767 (Brazilian Green) and a circular needle, pick up 156 (172, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts around the entire lower edge and work in 1x1 rib. At 1.5 in / 4 cm from the picked-up stitches, bind off. Designer: Patricia Hanemann Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/24/2025 Level of difficulty SIZES: S, (M, L, XL), 2L and 3L. BASED ON A BUST SIZE OF: 32–34, (36–38, 40–42, 44–46), 48–50 and 52–54 in /81–86, (91–96, 101–106, 111–117), 122–127 and 132–137 cm MATERIALS 3 (4, 5, 5), 6, 7 skeins of Círculo Sugar Pop yarn (290 yds / 265 m – 3.52 oz / 100g) color 8738 (Black & White); 3.0 mm Círculo crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge. GAUGE A 3.94 x 3.94 in. / 10 x 10 cm square in pattern st following the diagram and using a 3.0 mm hook (or size needed to achieve gauge) = 19 sts x 10 rows. STITCHES Abbreviations: bpdc = Back Post Double Crochet (Yarn over, insert the hook horizontally from back to front to back around the post of the dc of the previous rnd/row, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over again, pull through all loops.) ch = Chain Stitch dc = Double Crochet (Yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over again, pull through all loops.) fpdc = Front Post Double Crochet (Yarn over, insert the hook horizontally from front to back to front around the post of the dc of the previous rnd/row, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over again, pull through all loops.) hdc = Half Double Crochet (Yarn over, and insert your hook into the 3rd chain from your hook, the loop around your hook does not count as a chain, yarn over and pull the yarn back through the chain. You will have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops). rnd = round rnds = rounds sc = Single Crochet (Insert the hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again, pull through all loops.) sl st = Slip Stitch (Insert the hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, and pull through the loop on the hook.) st = stitch sts = stitches Pattern stitch = Follow the diagram. Ribbing = Follow the diagram. INSTRUCTIONS FRONT AND BACK ARE WORKED THE SAME They are identical and worked together from the bottom up to the armholes in the round. Ch 172 (188, 204, 220), 236, 252, close in a ring with 1 sl st, and work in pattern st following the diagram. Repeat from * to * 86 (94, 102, 110), 118, 126 times. Close each rnd with 1 sl st and start the next one with ch 3. At 11.8 in. / 30 cm from the beginning, divide the work into 2 equal parts and work each side separately. BACK On half of the sts, work pattern st following the diagram. At 19.7 in. / 50 cm from the beginning, fasten off. FRONT Return to the front sts and work pattern st following the diagram. At 17.7 in. / 45 cm from the beginning of the work, for the neckline, leave the center 18 (22, 22, 26), 26, 30 sts unworked and finish each side separately. On the neckline side, leave 2 sts unworked on every row (4 times). At 19.7 in. / 50 cm from the beginning, fasten off. SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Ch 68 (76, 84, 92), 100, 108, close in a ring with 1 sl st, and work in pattern st following the diagram. Repeat from * to * 34 (38, 42, 46), 50, 54 times. Close each rnd with 1 sl st and start the next one with ch 3. At 7.09 (7.48, 7.87, 8.27), 8.66, 9.05 in. / 18 (19, 20, 21), 22, 23 cm from the beginning, fasten off. FINISHING Sew the shoulders. Assemble the sleeves. Using 3.0 mm hook (or size needed) and Sugar Pop yarn in color 8738 (Black & White), work 4 rnds in ribbing along the neckline following the diagram and fasten off. Designer: Samara Varela Technical Editing & Grading: Tamy Antunes Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/23/2025 Level of difficulty SIZES: S, (M, L, XL), 2L and 3L. BASED ON A BUST SIZE OF: 32–34, (36–38, 40–42, 44–46), 48–50 and 52–54 in /81–86, (91–96, 101–106, 111–117), 122–127 and 132–137 cm MATERIALS:  2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls of Circulo Clea 1000 yarn (1.093 yds / 1.000 m - 5.3 oz / 151 g) – color 6133 (Pink); Círculo US B-1 / 2.0 mm crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge; 0.6 x 0.6 in. / 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm button x 2; Tapestry needle; Scissors; Stitch markers; Measuring Tape. STITCH GLOSSARY & ABBREVIATIONS: Pattern uses US crochet terminology St(s) – Stitch(es) R – Row/Round Diag – Diagram Ch – Chain Sl st – Slip stitch Sc – Single crochet Hdc – Half double crochet Dc – Double crochet FPdc – Front post double crochet BPdc – Back post double crochet Tr – Treble crochet 10dctog – 10 dc closed together in the same base stitch Pattern stitch (A) – follow diagram 1 Pattern stitch (B) – follow diagram 2 1/1 Ribbing – follow diagram 3 Pattern stitch (C) – follow diagram 4 Button cover – follow diagram 5   GAUGE: 4 x 4 in. / 10 x 10 cm square in double crochet, using US B-1 / 2.0 mm crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge = 36 sts x 11 rows.   EXECUTION TANK TOP – STEP 1: Work front and back in one piece, starting from the hem in rounds. Using Cléa yarn in Pink color and a B-1 / 2.0 mm hook (or size needed to achieve gauge), begin with the foundation chain working R1: * 1 dc, 3 ch *, repeat from * to * 80, (96, 112, 128), 144 and 160 more times. Work over this base chain in Pattern st (A) – 40, (48, 56, 64), 72 and 80 motifs, following diagram 1 and the indicated repeats for 13, (13.75, 14.5, 15.5), 16.5 and 17.5 in / 33, (35, 37, 39), 42 and 44 cm. STEP 2: Continue front and back separately, working in back-and-forth rows. CONTINUATION – BACK: Continue in Pattern st (B) – 20, (24, 28, 32), 36 and 40 motifs, following diagram 2 and the indicated repeats. At 18, (19.25, 20.5, 21.5), 22.5 and 23.5 in / 46, (49, 52, 55), 57 and 60 cm from the beginning, form the back opening 2.25 in. / 6 cm by working each side separately over 12 motifs. At 20.5, (21.75, 23, 24), 25.5 and 27 in / 52, (55, 58, 61), 65 and 68 cm from the beginning, shape the neckline by fastening off 4, (6, 6, 8), 8 and 10 motifs. At 20.5, (21.75, 23, 24), 25.5 and 27 in / 52, (55, 58, 61), 65 and 68 cm from the beginning, fasten off each shoulder with 4, (6, 6, 8), 8 and 10 motifs.   CONTINUATION – FRONT: Continue in Pattern st (B) – 20, (24, 28, 32), 36 and 40 motifs, following diagram 2 and the indicated repeats. At 16.5, (17.75, 19, 20), 21.5 and 22.5 in / 42, (45, 48, 51), 55 and 57 cm from the beginning, begin the neckline by fastening off the 3, (4, 4, 5), 6 and 6 center motifs, then work each side separately over 10 motifs. Every 2 rows, fasten off 2 sts for 5, (6, 6, 7), 7 and 8 times. At 20.5, (21.75, 23, 24), 25.5 and 27 in / 52, (55, 58, 61), 65 and 68 cm from the beginning, fasten off each shoulder with 4, (6, 6, 8), 8 and 10 motifs.   SHOULDER ASSEMBLY: Using a tapestry needle and Cléa yarn in Pink color, join the shoulders for 3.5–4, (4, 4.5, 5), 5.5 and 6 in / 9–10, (10, 11, 13), 14 and 15 cm, leaving armhole openings of 7, (7.75, 8.5, 9), 9.5 and 10 in / 18, (20, 22, 23), 24 and 25 cm.   EDGING AROUND HEM AND NECKLINE: Using Cléa yarn in Pink color and a B-1 (2.0 mm) hook, work around the hem in 1/1 Ribbing (340 sts front and back) following diagram 3 and the indicated repeats. Work around the neckline in 1/1 Ribbing (170 sts) following diagram 3 (Rows 1 and 2).   SLEEVE Using Cléa yarn in Pink color and a B-1 / 2.0 mm hook (or size needed to achieve gauge), join the yarn around the armhole and work in Pattern st (C) – 10, (12, 14, 16), 18 and 20 motifs, following diagram 4 and the indicated repeats for 7.5, (8.25, 9, 9.5), 10.5 and 11 in / 19, (21, 23, 24), 27 and 28 cm. Work in rounds, closing each round with sl st. Finish the sleeve edge with 2 rounds of sc. Make the second sleeve in the same way.   HEM RIBBING  Follow chart 3 for 280, (340, 400, 460), 520 and 580 sts.   NECKLINE RIBBING Follow chart 3 for 140, (170, 200, 230), 260 and 290 sts.   BUTTON COVER Using Cléa yarn in Pink color and a B-1 / 2.0 mm hook, begin with a magic ring. R1: 3 ch, 11 dc, sl st to close the round. R2 & R3: Continue following diagram 5. Work in rounds, closing each round with 1 sl st. Fasten off the yarn leaving a 6 in. / 15 cm tail. Thread this tail onto a tapestry needle and make a running stitch around R3. Insert the button and pull the thread to gather, securing with a knot. Repeat the same process for the second button and attach them on the right side of the back opening. On the left side of the back opening, make the buttonholes. For each buttonhole: Work a strap of 12 ch, then cover the ch with 1 row of sc. Make the second buttonhole in the same way.   LINING: A separate fabric tank top lining piece. FINISHING Weave in all your ends, wet block and lay flat to dry. Designer: Milla Vieira Grading and Technical Editing: Tamy Antunes  Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/16/2025 Level of difficulty Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) Finished measurements (garment measurements):  • Chest circumference: 35.5 (39.25, 43.25, 47.25, 51.25, 55) in / 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140) cm Materials:   Sugar Pop yarn (265m / 100g) - 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins  in color 9868 (Cloud); Círculo crochet hook - E-4 (3.5 mm). Stitches used and abbreviations: The instructions in parentheses ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Stitch  (st), Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop and pass it directly through the loop on the hook. Single crochet (sc): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again and draw through both loops on the hook. Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over again and draw through the remaining 2 loops.   Pattern stitch 1 and 2:  Follow the corresponding chart. Double crochet mesh:  Follow the chart. Armhole detail: Follow the chart.   Gauge:  a square of 4 in (10 cm) in pattern stitch no. 2, following the chart, using a E-4 (3.5 mm) hook = 18 sts x 8 rows.   Instructions Body:  Front and back are worked together in the round from the lower edge up to the armholes. Using a E-4 (3.5 mm) hook and Sugar Pop yarn in Cloud color, make a chain of 153 (171, 189, 207, 228, 246) sts, join into a ring with 1 sl st, and work in the round in pattern stitch nº 1 following the corresponding chart. Repeat from * to * across the stitches 51 (57, 63, 69, 76, 82) times. After completing chart nº 1, work in the round in dc mesh, following the chart. Repeat from * to * across the sts 77 (86, 95, 104, 114, 123) times. At 4.75 (4.75, 4.75, 4.25, 4.25, 4.25) in / 12 (12, 12, 11, 11, 11) cm from the beginning, work in the round in pattern stitch nº 2, following the corresponding chart. Repeat from * to * across the sts 22 (24, 27, 30, 32, 35) times. At 11 (11, 10.75, 10.25, 10.25, 10.25) in / 28 (28, 27, 26, 26, 26) cm from the beginning, work the next rounds in dc, increasing 17(17, 17, 19, 16, 16) sts evenly around. Make 170 (188, 206, 226, 244, 262) dc in each round. Start Armholes:  At 13.75 (13.75, 13.5, 13, 13, 13) in / 35 (35, 34, 33, 33, 33) cm from the beginning of the work, for the armholes, work 1 round as follows: work 84 (93, 102, 112, 121, 130) dc, in the next dc work the 1st round of the armhole detail, work 84 (93, 102, 112, 121, 130) dc, in the next dc work the 1st round of the armhole detail. Join the round with a slip stitch and leave on hold.   Sleeves – Using a E-4 (3.5 mm) hook and Sugar Pop yarn in Cloud color, make a chain of 75 (78, 81, 84, 84, 87) sts, join into a ring with 1 sl st, and work in the round in pattern stitch nº 1, following the corresponding chart. Repeat from * to * across the stitches 25 (26, 27, 28, 28, 29) times. After completing chart nº 1, work 2 rounds (All sizes) in the round in dc mesh, following the chart. Repeat from * to * across the stitches 38 (39, 41, 42, 42, 44) times. After finishing the two rounds of dc mesh, work 6 (6, 6, 6, 5, 4) rounds in pattern stitch nº 2, following the corresponding chart. Repeat from * to * across the sts 11 (11, 12, 12, 12, 12) times. After completing the 6 (6, 6, 6, 5, 4) rounds in pattern stitch nº 2, work 4 (4, 2, 2, 2, 2) rounds in the round in dc, with 75 (78, 81, 84, 84, 87) dc in each round. After completing the 4 (4, 2, 2, 2, 2) rounds, leave on hold. Make the other sleeve the same. Join the three parts of the blouse and shape the armhole:  work 84 (93, 102, 112, 121, 130) dc on the body section after the armhole detail, half of the 2nd round of the armhole detail, 75 (78, 81, 84, 84, 87) dc of one sleeve, the other half of the 2nd round of the armhole detail, 84 (93, 102, 112, 121, 130) dc on the body section after the armhole detail, half of the 2nd round of the armhole detail, 75 (78, 81, 84, 84, 87) dc of the other sleeve, the other half of the 2nd round of the armhole detail, and join in the round. Continue working in the round, keeping the armhole detail always in the same direction, and decrease 2 sts at each side of the dc sections  of the front, back, and sleeves, for 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) rounds following the armhole detail chart, then fasten off. Total: 82 (90, 98, 108, 110, 118) sts. Note:  See the chart for how to decrease the armholes. Finishing –  Using a E-4 (3.5 mm) hook and Sugar Pop yarn in Cloud color, work 1 round of sc around the neckline, cuffs, and lower edge of the blouse, and fasten off. Designer by: Mariane Machado   Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

04/07/2026 Level of difficulty Size: one size Materials: 1 skein each of Premium T-shirt yarn in the following colors:   ·         7993 (Deck) ·         5092 (Sage) Crochet Hook – US L-11 (8 mm); Fabric for lining.   Stitch Glossary and Abbreviations: The indications between ( ) are the abbreviations used in the pattern. Chain (ch) Stitch (st) Row/Round (R) Yarn over (yo) Slip stitch (sl st):  Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop and pass it directly through the loop on the hook. Single crochet (sc):  Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw through all loops on the hook. Waistcoat single crochet (wsc):  Insert hook into the middle of the st from the previous round, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw through all loops on the hook. Base:  follow the chart.   Pattern Notes: ·         Pattern uses US crochet terms. ·         Work in rounds. Instructions:   The bag is worked in one piece. Start with the base. Base –  Using the US L-11 (8.0 mm) hook and T-shirt yarn in 7993 (Deck) color, ch 15 + ch 1 to turn and work following the chart. Work R1 in sc, then continue in waistcoat sc. Once the base chart is complete, continue working in the round with the US L-11 (8.0 mm) hook and 7993 (Deck) color for 14 rounds without increases, then fasten off. Close all rounds with sl st and start the next round with ch 1. At this point, change to T-shirt yarn in 5092 (Sage) color and continue working in the round. Work 2 rounds of waistcoat sc around the entire piece.   Side  –   Using the US L-11 (8.0 mm) hook and T-shirt yarn in 5092 (Sage) color, work only over the 21 sts of one side, centered along the side of the base. Work in sc, decreasing 1 st at each side on every row (8 times). For the strap, continue working 4 sts in sc for 31 rows. After completing the 31 rows, attach the strap to the opposite side of the bag with sl st and fasten off. Finishing – Line the bag with fabric. Crochet Pattern by Kathia Roberta Beillo Moraes                               Disclaimer: measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...