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Materials Círculo – Merino Supreme – 1 hank 8336 (Lead). Círculo knitting needles –  5,0 mm e 6,0 mm. Pompom making kit– piece no. 9. Círculo needle– Tapestry needle no. 13. One size only Level of difficulty 08/29/2024     Abbreviations: CO: cast-on; RS: right side; WS: wrong side; k: knit; p: purl; k2tog: knit 2 sts together; st(s): stitch(es).   Stitches used 1x1 rib: k 1, p 1, k 1 .   Stockinette stitch: k all sts on RS, purl all on WS Pompom: follow the instructions on the package.   Cable pattern: follow chart.     Gauge:  10 x 10 cm square using 6 mm needles and following the st pattern from the chart = 15 sts x 18 rows.   Execution- Beanie: start by the bottom. CO 60 sts using 5 mm needles and knit in 1x1 rib until it measures 4 cm from the CO edge. Switch to 6 mm needles and follow the cable pattern from the chart for another 18 cm (22 cm from CO edge). Then work in stockinette as follows: 1st row (RS)- k2tog along the entire row (30 sts decreased); 2nd row (WS)- p all sts; 3rd row (RS): k2tog along the entire row (15 sts decreased); 4th row (WS): p all sts. At this point, slip all sts into a strand of yarn and tie them together. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in later. Make a pompom following the kit instructions with the piece no. 9; even out the pompom by cutting the longer strands.   Finishing:  weave in all loose ends and secure the pompom at the top of the beanie.   Designer:   Atelier Círculo   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Material Circulo Yarns – Merino Sweet color #2829 Archipelago, Qty: 4(4,5,5,5,6,6,7) Circular needles 6/4.0 mm 16” long Circular needles 6/4.0 mm 24” or longer Yarn needle Stitch markers Scrap yarn or stitch holders Level of difficulty 08/29/2024 Finished Measurements: 36(40,44,48,52,56,60,64)” finished chest circumference. Best worn with 5-6” of positive ease; select a finished circumference that provides this amount of ease. Stitch glossary and abbreviations: BO: bind off BOR: beginning of round CDD: centered double decrease CO: cast on dec: decrease(d) DPN: double-pointed needles inc: increase(d) K: knit K2tog: knit 2 stitches together P: purl PM: place marker PU: pick up rep: repeat rnd(s)  rounds RS: right side SM: slip marker SSK: slip, slip, knit these 2 stitches together st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side YO: yarn over Stockinette Stitch (St st, flat over any number of sts): Row 1 (RS): Knit all sts. Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts. Repeat Rows 1-2 for pattern. St st   (in rnds over any number of sts): Knit every rnd. 1x1 Rib (flat over a multiple of 2 sts + 1): Row 1: (K1, P1) to last st, K1. Row 2: (P1, K1) to last st, P1. Rep Rows 1-1 for pattern. 1x1 Rib (in rnds over an even number of sts): Rnd 1: (K1, P1) to end of row. Repeat Rnd 1 for pattern. Garter Stitch (flat over any number of sts): Knit every row. Eyelet Stitch (over a multiple of 6 sts + 3): Row 1 (RS): Knit all sts. Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts. Row 3: K3, YO, CDD, YO; rep from to last 3 sts, K3. Row 4: Knit all sts. Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern. Centered Double Decrease (CDD): Slip first and second sts together as if to work K2tog; K1; pass 2 slipped sts over the knit st.   Gauge:  23 sts and 34 rows = 4” in Stockinette Stitch, blocked   Pattern Notes Sweater front and back are knit flat to shoulders. Shoulders are joined with 3-Needle Bind Off. Sleeves are picked up directly from body and knit down to cuffs. Sweater sides and sleeve edges are seamed last.   Directions Front Using longer circular needle, CO 103(115,127,139,151,163,173,185) sts. Rows 1-16: Work 1x1 Rib, ending after a WS row. Begin St st and work even for 138(138,128,128,124,124,120,120) rows or until Front measures 18(18,17,17,16.5,16.5,16,16)” from CO edge. Mark Armholes:  Use scrap yarn to mark beginning and end of last row worked. Continue working even in St st for 7(11,9,13,11,15,11,15) rows, ending after a RS row. Next Row (WS):  K across. Lace Section:  Row 1 (RS): K2(2,2,2,2,2,1,1), work Eyelet Stitch from chart or written instructions to last 2(2,2,2,2,2,1,1) st(s), K2(2,2,2,2,2,1,1). Continue as established for a total of 20(20,28,28,36,36,44,44) rows. Work even in St st for two rows, ending after a WS row. Shape Neck:   Next Row (RS):  K33(39,45,51,57,63,68,74), slip these sts to holder for left side. BO center 37 sts, K to end. 33(39,45,51,57,63,68,74) sts. Right side: Next Row (WS):  P across. Next Row (RS):  BO 3 sts at neck edge, K to end. Next Row (WS):  P across. Dec Row (RS):  K1, SSK, K to end. 1 st dec at neck edge. Repeat Dec Row every RS row three more times. 26(32,38,44,50,56,61,67) sts. Work even for five rows until armhole measures 5.5(6,6.75,7.25,8,8.5,9,9.5)”. Break yarn and place sts on scrap yarn or st holder. Left side:  Slip 33(39,45,51,57,63,68,74) sts from holder to needle and join yarn to RS. Next Row (RS):  K across. Next Row (WS): BO 3 sts at neck edge, P to end. Dec Row (RS):  Work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec at neck edge. Repeat Dec Row every RS row three more times. 26(32,38,44,50,56,61,67) sts. Work even for six rows or until armhole measures 5.5(6,6.75,7.25,8,8.5,9,9.5)”. Break yarn and place sts on scrap yarn or st holder.   Back As for Front to Mark Armholes section. After marking armholes, continue working even in St st for 40(44,50,54,60,64,68,74) rows or until armholes measure 4.5(5,5.75,6.25,7,7.5,8,8.5)”, ending after a WS row. Shape Neck: Next Row (RS):  K28(34,40,46,52,58,63,69), slip these sts to holder for right side, BO center 47 sts, K to end. 28(34,40,46,52,58,63,69) sts. Left side: Next Row (WS):  P across. Dec Row (RS):  K1, SSK, K to end. 1 st dec at neck edge. Repeat Dec Row on RS once more. 26(32,38,44,50,56,61,67) sts. Work even for three rows until armhole measures 5.5(6,6.75,7.25,8,8.5,9,9.5)”. Break yarn and place sts on scrap yarn or st holder. Right side: Slip 28(34,40,46,52,58,63,69) sts from holder to needle and join yarn to WS. Next Row (WS):  P across. Dec Row (RS):  K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 1 st dec at neck edge. Repeat Dec Row on RS once more. 26(32,38,44,50,56,61,67) sts. Work even for three rows until armhole measures 5.5(6,6.75,7.25,8,8.5,9,9.5)”. Break yarn and place sts on scrap yarn or st holder.   Join Shoulders Join shoulders using 3-Needle Bind Off.   Sleeves With RS facing, PU and K 65(71,79,85,93,99,105,111) sts evenly between armhole markers. Rows 1-7:  Work even in St st, ending after a WS row. Dec Row (RS):  K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts dec. Repeat Dec Row every 16(12,8,8,8,6,6,4) rows 7(1,3,3,14,4,16,9) more times, then every 0(14,10,10,0,8,8,6) rows 0(7,9,9,0,11,2,12) times. 49(53,53,59,63,67,67,67) sts. Work even in St st for 13(11,7,7,5,5,5,3) rows or until sleeve measures 2” less than desired length. Cuff: Rows 1-16:  Work 1x1 Rib. BO all sts in pattern. Repeat on opposite side.   Neckband With RS facing, using 16” circular needle, beginning at left shoulder, PU and K 122 sts evenly around neck edge. If needed, adjust st count to be an even number. PM for BOR. Work 1x1 Rib for 15 rnds. BO all sts in pattern.   Finishing Seam body and sleeves at side edges. Weave in all ends and block.   A    chest circumference   36(40,44,48,52,56,60,64)” B    neck width   9” C    shoulder width   4.5(5.5,6.5,7.5,8.5,9.5,10.5,11.5)” D    front neck drop   2” E    back neck drop   1” F   upper arm circumference   11(12,13.5,14.5, 16,17,18,19)” G    sleeve length   17.5(17,17,17,16.5,16.5,16.5,16)” H    cuff circumference   8(9,9,10,10.5,11.5,11.5,11.5)” I    armhole length   5.5(6,6.75,7.25,8,8.5,9,9.5)” J   body length   18(18,17,17,16.5,16.5,16,16)”     Chart   Designed by Angeline Webb Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 1 pair of knitting needles size 3 mm/ 3 US Yarn: Circulo Charme (100% Cotton) 2, 2, 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins - Color 5556 2 markers Tapestry needle and scissors. Sizes I, II, III (IV, V, VI, VII) - 84, 88, 96 (104, 112, 124, 136) cm / 33, 34.5, 37.75 (41, 44, 48.75, 53.5)” chest. - Follow the pattern and material according to the size placement in this list. The pattern was written according to the measurement, not the final knitted garment. Level of difficulty 08/29/2024 The Brighton T-Shirt is an easy sideways project knitted in cotton to be the one shirt you use all summer long. It’s very easy to knit and easy to adapt. To make It longer - just increase more stitches at the body increase and work it in stockinette. If you want it larger, knit more rows before and after the split for the neckline. Gauge - 10 x 10 cm/ 4” x 4” in Fake English Rib after blocking (gauge can have a 2 sts and 4 row difference and won’t affect the pattern) 27 sts x 32.5 rows Abbreviations and Techniques K Knit P Purl Yo Yarn Over - while working the Brioche Stitch, the yarn over must be just like a purl stitch Co Cast on Bo Bind off St Stitch Rep Repeat P2tog Purl two stitches together Sl Slip a st - while working the Brioche Stitch, slip the stitch purl wise Inc Increase - for increasing for the body you can use a twisted yarn over or EZ increase M Marker Patterns   Brioche Stitch   Sl 1, Yo, P2tog - rep _ for as long as the pattern demands Fake English Rib K2, P1 - rep _ for as long as the pattern demands Instructions Begin with the sleeve: CO 96, 96, 96 (102, 102, 108, 108) sts very loosely (I like to cast on with 2 needles). Work 20 rows in Brioche Stitch. Work 20 rows in Fake English Rib (if you prefer longer sleeves, work more rows in Fake English Rib). Body Increase: Row 1: Increase 15, 15, 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts, place marker, increase 35 sts; turn, K35, slip marker, work Fake English Rib to end of row. Row 2: Increase 15, 15, 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) sts, place marker, increase 35 sts; turn, K5, P30, slip marker, work Fake English Rib to the next marker [126, 126, 126 (138, 144, 156, 162) sts], slip marker, P30, K5. Shoulder: Row 1: K35, slip marker, work Fake English Rib to the next marker, slip marker, K35. Row 2: K5, P30, slip marker, work Fake English Rib to the next marker, slip marker, P30, K5. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 6, 7, 8 (10, 12, 15, 18) times for the shoulder. Neckline: Front: Row 1: K35, slip marker, work 63, 63, 63 (69, 72, 78, 81) sts in Fake English Rib, turn. Row 2: Work 63, 63, 63 (69, 72, 78, 81) sts in Fake English Rib, slip marker, P30, K5, turn. Work Rows 1 and 2 for 34, 34, 36 (36, 36, 36, 38) times. Work Row 1 once more. Cut the yarn. Back: Rejoin yarn at the neckline and work the remaining stitches. Row 1: Work 63, 63, 63 (69, 72, 78, 81) sts in Fake English Rib, K35, turn. Row 2: K5, P30, slip marker, work 63, 63, 63 (69, 72, 78, 81) sts in Fake English Rib, turn. Work Rows 1 and 2 for 34, 34, 36 (36, 36, 36, 38) times. Work Row 1 once more. Shoulder: Row 1: K5, P30, slip marker, work Fake English Rib to the next marker, slip marker, P30, K5. Row 2: K35, slip marker, work 63, 63, 63 (69, 72, 78, 81) sts in Fake English Rib, turn. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 6, 7, 8 (10, 12, 15, 18) times for the shoulder. Sleeve: Row 1: BO 50, 50, 50 (53, 56, 59, 61) sts, remove marker, work in Fake English Rib to the next marker, slip marker, P30, K5. Row 2: BO 50, 50, 50 (53, 56, 59, 61) sts, remove marker, work in Fake English Rib to the end of the row. Work 20 rows in Fake English Rib. Work 20 rows in Brioche Stitch. Cast off using a very loose method. Sew sides and weave in ends. Designer Name:  Cristiane Bertoluci Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Circulo Yarns – Merino Supreme color #3022 Raspberry, Qty: 10(11,11,13,14,15,16,17) Circular needles 10.5/6.5 mm 32” or longer for body DPNs or circular needles 10.5/6.5 mm 9” long for sleeves Three 1” buttons Yarn needle Stitch markers Scrap yarn or stitch holders Thinner yarn in matching color (for sewing buttons)          Level of difficulty 08/29/2024 Stitch glossary and abbreviations: BO: bind off BOR: beginning of round CO: cast on dec: decrease(d) DPN: double-pointed needles inc: increase(d) K: knit KFB: knit into front and back K2tog: knit 2 stitches together P: purl PM: place marker PU: pick up pw: purlwise rep: repeat rnd(s): rounds RS: right side SK2P: slip 1, k 2 together, pass slipped stitch over SM: slip marker SSK: slip 1, slip 1, knit these 2 stitches together st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side wyif: with yarn in front YO: yarn over Stockinette Stitch (St st, flat over any number of sts): Row 1 (RS): Knit all sts. Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts. Repeat Rows 1-2 for pattern. St st   (in rnds over any number of sts): Knit every rnd. 1x1 Rib (flat over a multiple of 2 sts + 1): Row 1: (K1, P1) to last st, K1. Row 2: (P1, K1) to last st, P1. Rep Rows 1-1 for pattern. 1x1 Rib (in rnds over an even number of sts): Rnd 1: (K1, P1) to end of row. Repeat Rnd 1 for pattern. Garter Stitch (flat over any number of sts): Knit every row.   Gauge: 11.5 sts and 17 rows = 4” in Stockinette Stitch, blocked   Pattern Notes Cardigan is knit top down seamlessly in one piece. Beginning at back neck, back and both fronts are worked from shoulders to armholes where body is then joined and worked to bottom hem. Sleeves are picked up and worked in rounds down to cuffs. Garter stitch border is incorporated into main knitting throughout.   Directions Back CO 27 sts. Rows 1-6 : Work 1x1 Rib. Row 7 (WS) : Work 1x1 Rib to end. Do not turn work. Use backwards loop method to CO 13(15,18,21,24,27,30,33) sts for left shoulder. Row 8 (RS) : K across. Do not turn work. Use backwards loop method to CO 13(15,18,21,24,27,30,33) sts for right shoulder. 53(57,63,69,75,81,87,93) sts. Work even in St st for 25(27,29,33,35,37,39,43) rows, ending after a WS row. Transfer sts to scrap yarn or st holder.    Right Front With RS facing, PU and K 13(15,18,21,24,27,30,33) sts along right shoulder CO edge and 6 sts along ribbed border edge. Next Row (WS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to end. V-neck Inc Row/Row 1 (RS) : K to last 8 sts, KFB, K to end. 1 st inc. Row 2 (WS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to end. Row 3 : K across. Row 4 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to end. Repeat Rows 1-4 an additional 5(5,6,7,7,8,8,9) times. 29(30,34,37,39,43,45,48) sts. Sizes 40, 52, 60, and 64” only: Work Rows 1 & 2 once more. 31(40,46,49) sts. All Sizes: Transfer sts to scrap yarn or st holder.   Left Front With RS facing, PU and K 6 sts along ribbed border edge and 13(15,18,21,24, 27,30,33) sts along left shoulder CO edge. Next Row (WS) : P to last 6 sts, K6. V-neck Inc Row/Row 1 (RS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, KFB, K to end. 1 st inc. Row 2 (WS) : P to last 6 sts, K6. Row 3 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K to end. Row 4 : P to last 6 sts, K6. Repeat Rows 1-4 an additional 5(5,6,7,7,8,8,8) times. 29(30,34,37,39,43,45,48) sts. Sizes 40, 52, 60, and 64” only: Work Rows 1 & 2 once more. 31(40,46,49) sts.   Join Body Sizes 36, 44, 48, and 56” only: V-neck Inc Row/Row 1 (RS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, KFB, K across remaining Left Front sts, transfer Back sts from st holder to needle and K across Back sts, transfer Right Front sts from st holder to needle and K to last 8 sts, KFB, K to end. 2 sts inc. Row 2 (WS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Row 3 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K to end. Row 4 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Repeat Rows 1-4 an additional 3(2,1,0) times. 111(131,143,167) sts. Sizes 40, and 52” only: Work even as established for 2 rows. V-neck Inc Row/Row 1 (RS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, KFB, K across remaining Left Front sts, transfer Back sts from st holder to needle and K across Back sts, transfer Right Front sts from st holder to needle and K to last 8 sts, KFB, K to end. 2 sts inc. Row 2 (WS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Row 3 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K to end. Row 4 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Repeat Rows 1-4 an additional 2(0) times. 119(155) sts. Sizes 60”, and 64” only: Work even as established for 2(4) rows. 179(191) sts. All Sizes: Work Buttonhole into Right Front border on next RS row then every 30(30,30,32,32,32,32,34) rows and AT THE SAME TIME  work body even for 12(14,14,18,20,22,22,24) rows. Buttonhole (worked into Right Front border sts, work remaining sts as established): Row 1 (RS) : K3, YO twice, K2tog, K1, work remaining sts as established. Row 2 : Work as established to first YO, drop second YO, K3. Lace: Lace is worked between markers on Right and Left Fronts, follow Chart or written instructions here.  Row 1 (RS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, PM, K4, YO, SSK, K3, PM, K to last 18 sts, PM, K4, YO, SSK, K3, PM, K to end. Row 2 and all WS rows : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Row 3 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, SM, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, SM, K to next marker, SM, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, SM, K to end. Row 5 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, SM, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, SM, K to end. Row 7 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, SM, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, SM, K to end. Row 9 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, SM, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, SM, K to next marker, SM, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, SM, K to end. Row 11 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K8, SM, K3, YO, SK2P, YO, K3, SM, K to next marker, SM, K3, YO, SK2P, YO, K3, SM, K to end. Row 12 : As Row 2. Repeat Rows 1-12 once more. Remove markers. Lower Body: Next Row (RS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K to end. Next Row (WS) : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, P to last 6 sts, K6. Work even as established a further 20(20,18,18,16,16,16,16) rows. Hem: Rows 1-8 : Sl 1 pw wyif, K5, work 1x1 Rib to last 6 sts, K6. BO 6 sts pw, BO ribbed sts in pattern, then BO remaining 6 sts pw.   Sleeves With RS facing, using DPNs or small circumference circular needle, beginning at bottom of armhole, PU and K 32(36,40,42,46,50,52,56) sts evenly around armhole. PM for BOR. Work Stockinette st in rnds from here. Rnd 1 : K all. Dec Rnd : K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 2 sts dec. Repeat Dec Rnd every 16(12,8,8,8,8,6,4) rnds 2(1,1,1,7,7,3,2) more times, then every 18(14,10,10,0,0,8,6) rnds 1(3,5,5,0,0,5,8) times. 24(26,26,28,30,34,34,34) sts. Work even for 13(9,5,5,5,5,3,1) rnd(s), or until sleeve measures 2” less than desired length. Cuff: Rnds 1-7 : Work 1x1 Rib. BO all sts in pattern. Repeat on opposite side.   FINISHING Use thinner yarn in matching color to sew buttons to left border corresponding to buttonholes. Weave in all ends and block. A   chest circumference   36(40,44,48,52,56,60,64)” B   neck width    9” C    shoulder width   4.5(5.5,6.5,7.5,8.5,9.5,10.5,11.5)” D    v-neck depth   10” E    upper arm circumference   12(13,14,16,17,18,19,20.5)” F    sleeve length   17.5(17,17,17,16.5,16.5,16.5,16)” G    cuff circumference   8(9,9,10,10.5,11.5,11.5,11.5)”        H    armhole length   6(6.5,7,8,8.5,9,9.5,10.25)” I   body length   18.75(18.75,17.75,17.75,17.5,17.5,17,17)” Chart     Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

MATERIALS 2 balls of Premium T-shirt Yarn – Color: 7316 (Hena); Círculo crochet hook – 9.0 mm; Círculo sewing needle – no. 2; 1 spool of Maxxi Retrós – Color: 228 (Nectarina); Rectangular metal handle (11 cm x 8 cm / 4.33” x 3.15”) - Color: 20 (Gold); Heart lobster clasp (46 mm x 46 mm) – Color: 20 (Gold); Size: 25 cm x 33 cm (9.84” x 12.99) Círculo tapestry needle; Unbleached fabric for lining; Scissors; Measuring tape.                  08/26/2024 Level of difficulty                      Abbreviations: foll.: following, hk.: hook, approx.: approximately, rnd.: round, diag.: diagram, st.: stitch, sts.: stitches, rep.: repeat or repetition, wk.: work or working, x: times. Crochet stitches used: ch.: chain stitch, sl st.: slip stitch, sc.: single crochet, bobble: pull up loops from 3 dc. on hook and finish them together with 1 sl st., pattern st. (A): follow diag. 1, pattern st. (B): follow diag. 2. Sample: a 10 cm (3.94”) square in pattern st. (B) using a 9.0 mm crochet hk. = 8 sts. x 5 rows. Instructions: Bag bottom: use the T-shirt yarn and 9.0 mm crochet hook. Start the piece from the bottom wk. in rounds. Wk. a chain of 21 ch. sts. Rnd.1: 1 ch., 48 sc., 1 sl st. to close the round. Rnd.2: wk. in pattern st. (A) foll. diag. 1. Bag base: Continue the piece in rounds in pattern st. (B) foll. diag. 2 and the rep. st. from rounds 3 to 16. Finishing: Center the handles on the front and back parts. Use the T-shirt yarn in Hena Neon color and tapestry needle, and attach them with running sts. in the 15th rnd. Attach the lining using sewing needle no. 2 and Maxxi Retrós thread in Nectarina color, making running stitches. Tassel: Use the T-shirt yarn in Hena color. Cut 17 strands of 15 cm (5.91“) each and fold them in half. Using a helper strand approx. 20 cm (7.87”), at 1 cm (0.39”) from the top edge, tie all strands together by wrapping the helper strand around them several times; secure it with a knot. Make two identical pieces and set them aside. Cord: Use the T-shirt yarn in Hena color and 9.0 mm crochet hk. Wk. a chain of 30 cm (11.81”) in ch. st. Attach the two tassels to the ends of this cord. Fold the cord in half and attach it to the heart lobster clasp ring. Attach the lobster clasp to the front below the handle. Artisan: Kathia Roberta Beillo Moraes     Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

⬆️ Click on the photo and journey to Ravelry's website, where you can seamlessly purchase the pattern and bring your crafting dreams to life. Size: XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL) By: Esmeralda Garcia Disclaimer : Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

08/13/2024 Level of difficulty MATERIALS 1 ball of Amigurumi in the colors: 7564 (Porcelain), 8990 (Black) e 3148 (Macadamia); Safety eyes (8 mm) – color black; Polyfill; Crochet hook - 2.5 mm; Split key ring.   EXECUTION Stitches used: Increase = inc; Triple increase = Tinc; Chain = ch; Decrease = dec; Double crochet = DC; Single crochet = SC.   Estimated size: Height- 10 cm, Diameter- 22 cm   Execution:   Head   Using the color 7564   1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring;   2nd rnd: 6 inc. = 12 SC;   3rd to 5th rnds (3 rounds): 12 SC;   6th rnd: 4 SC, 3 inc., 5 SC = 15 SC;   7th rnd: 4 SC, 6 inc., 5 SC = 21 SC;   8th rnd: 21 SC;   9th rnd: 3 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc.) 7x, 4 SC = 28 SC;   10th rnd: 28 SC;   11th rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc. = 42 SC;   12th to 19th rnds (8 rounds): 42 SC;   20th rnd: 5 SC, 1 dec. = 36 SC.   Attach the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, 7 sts apart (count each increase as a separate stitch).   21st rnd: 4 SC, 1 dec. = 30 SC.   Stuff it with polyfill.   22nd rnd: 3 SC, 1 dec. = 24 SC.   Finish stuffing with polyfill.   23rd rnd: 2 SC, 1 dec. = 18 SC;   24th rnd: 1 SC, 1 dec. = 12 SC.   Fasten-off with a reverse magic ring.   Snout   Using the color 8990   1st rnd (in a magic ring): ch 2, 3 DC, ch 2.   Close the magic ring.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming. Seam the snout between rounds 1 and 3 of the head.   Embroider the mouth with the color 8990. Eyebrows (2)   Using the color 7564   Ch 6.   1st row: skip 1 ch, 5 SC;   2nd row: 1 inc., 3 SC, 1 inc. = 7 SC.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming.   Seam the eyebrows to the head, above the eyes.   Ears – outer part (2)   With the color 7564   Ch 11 and work flat, ch. 1 at the beginning of each row (doesn’t count as a stitch).   1st row: skip 1 ch, 10 SC;   2nd row: 10 SC;   3rd row: 1 dec., 6 SC, 1 dec. = 8 SC;   4th row: 8 SC;   5th row: 1 dec., 4 SC, 1 dec. = 6 SC;   6th row: 6 SC;   7th row: 1 dec., 2 SC, 1 dec. = 4 SC;   8th row: 4 SC;   9th row: 1 dec., 2 SC = 3 SC;   10th row: 3 SC;   11th row: 1 dec., 1 SC = 2 SC;   12th row: 1 dec. = 1 SC.   Contour the piece with SCs, making Tinc. at the edges.   Fasten-off, leaving a tail for seaming.   Ears – inner part (2)   With the color 3148   Ch 7 and work flat, ch. 1 at the beginning of each row (doesn’t count as a stitch).   1st row: skip 1 ch, 6 SC;   2nd row: 6 SC;   3rd row: 1 dec., 2 SC, 1 dec. = 4 SC;   4th row: 4 SC;   5th row: 1 dec., 2 SC = 3 SC;   6th row: 3 SC;   7th row: 1 dec, 1 SC = 2 SC;   8th row: 1 dec. = 1 SC.   Contour the piece with SCs, making Tinc. at the edges.   Fasten-off.   Seam or glue it to the outer part of the ear.   Seam the ears on rows 15 and 16 of the head. Blush the cheeks with some make-up. Attach the split key ring to the 1st row of the head.   Designer: Maria Fantoni   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

11/03/2023 Level of difficulty: Challenging *** Size: 11.5” Material Circulo Yarns - Amigurumi 1 ball in each color #4456 orange, #7030 mustard, #7563 chantilly, and #7220 dates white, black and dark brown scraps Crochet hook C Black safety eyes 8 mm Cardboard or plastic sheet Polyester stuffing Yarn needle & scissors Created by: Suely Beggiato Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

MATERIALS 1 ball of the yarn Amigurumi – Colors: 8001 (White) and 1112 (Cream); Maxi Mouline – Color: Maxi Mouline 900 (Black); Circular knitting needles – 3.5 mm with an 80 cm or longer cable; Polyfill; Safety eyes (8 mm) – Black; Tapestry needle; Locking stitch markers. Level of difficulty 07/09/2024 EXECUTION Stitches used: Knit stitch = k; Knit 2 stitches together = k2tog; Left leaning decrease- slip 2 stitches knitwise, slip them back to the left needle and k them together through the back loop = SSK; Knit through front and back loop of the same stitch, making an increase = KFB; Make 1 left (pick the bar between 2 stitches, from front to back, then k the bar through the back loop) = M1L; Make 1 right (pick the bar between 2 stitches, from back to front, then k the bar as usual) = M1R; Round (knit in the round, using the magic loop technique) = rnd; Magic ring knitting cast-on – create each stitch on the magic ring with a crochet hook by passing the hook under the ring, making a yarn over, pulling it up and placing it on the knitting needle; Provisional cast-on with two needles – hold two needles in parallel. Hold the yarn with your thumb and index fingers, as if you were to do a long tail cast-on. Loop the yarn from the thumb over the top/back needle, from back to front; then loop the yarn from the index finger over the bottom/front needle, from back to front. Repeat these two steps between as many times as needed to achieve the indicated number of stitches. Before you start: Read the entire pattern before starting your work. Separate all materials needed. Before stuffing the piece, slip all stitches to the needle cable. Estimated size: 17 cm. Execution: Legs (2) Start with the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before casting-on the stitches. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don’t close the magic ring. Assemble the magic loop, leaving half the stitches on each needle. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (k 1, m1r) 6x = 12 sts; 3rd rnd: k 12; 4th rnd: k 5, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 5 = 14 sts; 5th rnd: k 14; 6th rnd: k 6, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 6 = 16 sts; 7th rnd: k 16; 8th rnd: k 7, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 7 = 18 sts; 9th rnd: k 18; 10th rnd: k 8, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 8 = 20 sts; 11th rnd: k 20; 12th rnd: k 9, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 9 = 22 sts; 13th rnd: k 22. Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn, with the help of a tapestry needle. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail for seaming. Leave the piece on hold. Knit a second identical leg. Cut the yarn and keep the stitches on the needles. Body With the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) 1st rnd: k 11 on the leg that remained on the needles. Place the first  11 sts from the first leg (on hold) back on the left needle in a way that the increases face the inner side of the body. K those 11 stitches, then place on the needles the remaining 11 sts from the first leg; that way, the magic loop is already assembled. K the 22 sts that are on the second part of the magic loop = 44 sts in total; 2nd rnd: k 10, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 20, m1r, k 2, m1l, k 10 = 48 sts; 3rd rnd: k 1, m1r, k 22, m1l, k 2, m1r, k 22, m1l, k 1 = 52 sts; 4th rnd: k 11, m1r, k 4, m1l, k 22, m1r, k 4, m1l, k 11 = 56 sts; 5th rnd: k 1, m1r, k 26, m1l, k 2, m1r, k 26, m1l, k 1 = 60 sts; 6th to 20th rnds (15 rounds): 60 sts. Stuff the legs with polyfill. Seam shut the tiny hole left between the legs. 21st rnd: k2tog twice, k 22, 2 ssk, (k2tog) 2x, k 22, 2 ssk = 52 sts; 22nd rnd: k 52; 23rd rnd: k2tog, k 22, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 22, 1 ssk = 48 sts; 24th rnd: k 48; 25th rnd: k2tog, k 20, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 20, 1 ssk = 44 sts; 26th rnd: k 44; 27th rnd: k2tog, k 18, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 18, 1 ssk = 40 sts; 28th rnd: k 40; 29th rnd: k2tog, k 16, 1 ssk, k2tog, k 16, 1 ssk = 36 sts; 30th rnd: k 36. Head Continue with the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (white) Continue from the body. 1st rnd: (k 2, m1r) 18x = 54 sts; 2nd to 22nd rnd (21 rounds): 54 sts. Attach the safety eyes on the 12th round, specifically on stitches 9 and 17 (7 stitches apart). Stuff with polyfill until the neck. 23rd rnd: (k 1, k2tog) 18x = 36 sts; 24th rnd: k 36; 25th rnd: (k 1, k2tog) 12x = 24 sts; 26th rnd: k 24. Stuff the head with polyfill. 27th rnd: (k2tog) 12x = 12 sts; 28th rnd: k 12. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for seaming. Stuff the rest with polyfill. With the help of a tapestry needle, pass the yarn through all 12 stitches. Pull the yarn to close the opening and make a knot. Embroider the eyelashes and eyebrows with Maxi Mouline 900 (Black). Slip a piece of the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) through all sts from the 1st rnd, starting at the nape; pull the yarn to shape the neck and make a tight knot. Cut the excess yarn and hide the ends inside the duckling. Wings (2) With the Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before starting. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don't close the magic ring. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (k 1, m1r) 6x = 12 sts; 3rd rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 4th rnd: (kfb, k 4, kfb) 2x = 16 sts; 5th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 6th rnd: (kfb, k 6, kfb) 2x = 20 sts; 7th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) repeat the instructions between 4 more times, k 8 = 20 sts; 8th rnd: (kfb, k 8, kfb) 2 x = 24 sts; 9th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 5 more times, k 8 = 24 sts; 10th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 6, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 20 sts; 11th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 4 more times, k 8 = 20 sts; 12th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 4, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 16 sts; 13th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) , repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 14th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k 2, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 12 sts; 15th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 16th rnd: (k 1, k2tog, k2tog, k 1) 2x = 8 sts; 17th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase) , repeat the instructions between 1 more time, k 6 = 8 sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. With the help of a tapestry needle, pass the yarn through the 8 stitches. Pull the yarn to close the opening and make a knot. Pull the magic ring tail tightly and make a knot. Make an identical second wing. Tail With the Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Leave an approximately 10 cm yarn tail before starting. Cast-on 6 stitches, using the Magic ring knitting cast-on technique. Don't close the magic ring. Assemble the magic loop, leaving half the stitches on each needle. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: k 1, kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), k 3 = 6 sts; 3rd rnd: 6 kfb = 12 sts; 4th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog(with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 2 more times, k 6 = 12 sts; 5th rnd: (kfb, k 4, kfb) 2x = 16 sts; 6th rnd: kfb, (slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 2) repeat 8x, slip both stitches back to the left needle, k 1, k2tog (with one stitch from the cord and one from the increase), repeat the instructions between 3 more times, k 8 = 16 sts; 7th rnd: (k2tog) 8x = 8 sts. Bind-off all sts knitwise Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for seaming. Pull the magic ring tail tightly and make a knot. Seam the tail on the 6th round of the body, centered on the back. Beak With the yarn Amigurumi 1112 (Cream) Cast-on 6 stitches, using the provisional cast-on with two needles. That way, the magic loop is already assembled. 1st rnd: k 6; 2nd rnd: (kfb, k 1, kfb) 2x = 10 sts; 3rd rnd: k 10; 4th rnd: (kfb, k 3, kfb) 2x = 14 sts; 5th and 6th rnds: k 14; Bind-off all sts knitwise. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Seam the beak on rounds 6 and 7 of the head, between the 10th and 16th stitches. Designer: Suely Beggiato Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Aloe Vera by Circulo - 3113 Peach Pink and 8001 White US J10/6.00mm crochet hook Scissors Yarn needle Fabric for lining Level of difficulty 07/31/2024 Measurements Square after blocking: 6 ¾” Overall bag when finished: 13.5” x 13.5” (not including strap) Abbreviations Ch - chain St - stitch Sc - single crochet Hdc - half double crochet Dc - double crochet Sl st - slip stitch V-st - (dc, ch 2, dc) Granny Square Instructions - Make 8 With white, make a magic circle Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a st), 2 dc into the magic circle, (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into the magic circle, ch 3, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Cut yarn. Round 2: With pink, join yarn in the middle st of the 3-dc block, ch 5 (count as 1 dc and ch 2), 1 dc in the same st, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in the ch-3 sp, V-st in the middle st of the 3 dc block; repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the third ch of the beginning ch 5. Cut yarn. Round 3: With white, join yarn in the corner ch-2 sp, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, (3 dc in the next ch-2 sp) 3 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Cut yarn. Round 4: With pink, join yarn in the corner ch-2 sp, (ch 5, dc, ch 2, V-st) in the same st, (V-st in between each of the spaces between the double crochet block segments across, repeat until you reach the next corner st, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in the corner sp, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5. Cut yarn. Round 5: With white, join yarn at the corner ch-2 sp, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp and each ch-2 sp across until you reach the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp, repeat from * around ending with a sl st to the beginning ch 3. Assembly You are going to start attaching the squares together so you have 4 squares on one side of the bag and 4 squares on the other. You will also whip stitch along all of the edges leaving the opening at the top. Strap (make as short or as long as you want. I made mine fairly long) With pink - ch 90 Row 1: 1 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 3, turn. Row 2: 1 dc in the first st and each st across. Finish off, weave in ends. Place the strap in desired position on each side of the bag and sew in place. Now you are going to add a border of sc along each side of the bag and all along the strap. So attach your pink yarn in any stitch and ch 1, then sc evenly around. Repeat on other side. Doing this provides a more finished look and also keep the strap from stretching out too much. Add lining if desired. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

08/15/2024 Level of difficulty MATERIALS 1 ball of the yarn Amigurumi – Color: 4456 (Orange); 2 beads (6 mm) – Black; Crochet hook - 3.0 mm; Tapestry needle; Polyfill; Locking stitch markers. Stitches used: Increase = inc; chain = ch; decrease = dec; half double crochet = HDC; double crochet = DC; slip stitch = slst; single crochet = SC; extended double crochet = extended DC. Repeat instructions between ** until end of the round. Estimated size: 26 cm Execution: Body Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 4 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 4 inc = 8 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 12 SC; 4th rnd: 2 SC, 1 inc = 16 SC; 5th rnd: 3 SC, 1 inc = 20 SC; 6th rnd: 4 SC, 1 inc = 24 SC; 7th rnd: 5 SC, 1 inc = 28 SC; 8th rnd: 6 SC, 1 inc = 32 SC; 9th rnd: 7 SC, 1 inc = 36 SC; 10th rnd: 36 SC; 11th rnd: 8 SC, 1 inc = 40 SC; 12th rnd: 9 SC, 1 inc = 44 SC; 13th to 28th rnds (16 rounds): 44 SC; 29th rnd: 9 SC, 1 dec = 40 SC; 30th to 32nd rnds (3 rounds): 40 SC Stuff with polyfill. 33rd rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 34th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 35th to 37th rnds (3 rounds): 40 SC; 38th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 39th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 40th and 41st rnds: 40 SC; 42nd rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 43rd rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 44th and 45th rnds: 40 SC; 46th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC Stuff with more polyfill. 47th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 48th and 49th rnds: 40 SC; 50th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 51st rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC; 52nd and 53rd rnds: 40 SC; 54th rnd: 20 dec in the back loop only = 20 SC; 55th rnd: 20 inc = 40 SC Fasten-off. Make the tail: 56th rnd: ch 7, (TURN), skip 1 ch, 6 SC, 1 dec (with the first st of the chain and the next one, on the body), 19 SC, ch 7, (TURN), skip 1 ch, 6 SC, 1 dec (with the first st of the chain and the next one, on the body)), 19 SC = 64 stitches (not counting the skipped chs); 57th rnd: 6 SC on the other side of the ch, 26 SC, 6 SC on the other side of the ch, 26 SC = 64 SC; 58th rnd: 64 SC; 59th to 62nd rnds (4 rounds): 64 SC; 63rd rnd: 1 SC, (1 SC, 1 HDC, 1 DC, 2 extended DC, 1 DC, 1 HDC, 1 SC) 7x, 1 SC, 1 HDC, 1 DC, 2 extended DC, 1 DC, 1 HDC. Stuff the tail with polyfill once you finish the entire round. Close it with a slst, joining both sides and flattening the tail. Medium legs (6) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 6 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 9 SC; 4th to 10th rnds (7 rounds): 9 SC; 11th rnd: 1 dec, 7 SC = 8 SC; 12th rnd: 1 dec, 6 SC = 7 SC. Stuff the bottom with polyfill. 13th rnd: 1 dec, 5 SC = 6 SC; 14th to 23rd rnds (10 rounds): 6 SCStuff the rest with polyfill. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Small legs (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd to 19th rnds (18 rounds): 6 SC Stuff with polyfill. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Claws (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) 1st rnd: 6 SC into a magic ring; 2nd rnd: 6 SC; 3rd rnd: 1 SC, 1 inc = 9 SC; 5th rnd: 9 SC; Fasten-off. Make a second identical piece and don’t fasten-off. In the next rnd join both pieces to create the pincer. 6th rnd: 9 SC in the 2nd piece and 9 SC in the 1st piece = 18 SC; 7th rnd: 2 SC, 1 inc = 24 SC; 8th to 11th rnds (4 rounds): 24 SC; 12th rnd: 6 SC, 1 dec = 21 SC; 13th rnd: 21 SC; 14th rnd: 5 SC, 1 dec = 18 SC; 15th rnd: 18 SC; 16th rnd: 4 SC, 1 dec = 15 SC; 17th rnd: 15 SC; 18th rnd: 3 SC, 1 dec = 12 SC; 19th rnd: 12 SC; 20th rnd: 2 SC, 1 dec = 9 SC; Stuff with polyfill. 21st and 22nd rnds: 9 SC; 23rd rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 24th rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 25th rnd: 1 SC, 4 slst, 4 SC = 9 sts; 26th to 35th rnds (10 rounds): 9 SC; Stuff with polyfill. 36th rnd: 1 SC, 1 dec = 6 SC Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Antennae (2) Using Amigurumi Soft 4456 (Orange) Ch 22, skip 1 ch (TURN). Only row: 2 SC, 19 slst = 21 stitches. Fasten-off, leaving a yarn tail for seaming. Seam between rnds 3 and 4 of the body. Assembling: attach the beads between rnds 11 and 12, approximately 10 sts apart. Seam to each side of the body: 1 claw, 3 medium legs and 1 small leg between rnds 17 and 32. Designer: Ana Paula Mitie Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Material 2 rolls of Natural Macrame Cotton yarn Color: 20 (Natural) 1 pair of bag handles Size: 30 cm (width) X 26 cm (height) - Approximately 12 inches X 10 inches Level of difficulty Transfer measurement chart to paper to guide you along. Arrows indicate direction. Knots: Square knot, double half hitch knot. Execution Cut 56 cords of 2.80 m (9 feet) each. Hang 24 cords 1 by 1, folded in half on each bag handle. Put the extra cords on the side. Work 1 row of square knots; on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th row, add 1 of the cords that you put aside, on each side and work normally with square knots. Make the other handle the same. From the 6th row, join the 2 handles and work the circular piece following the graphic. To close the base, turn it inside out, make 1 more row of square knots joining the front and back knots, overhand knot the cords and cut or trim the extras. Created by: Samara Varella Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 1 skein of Amigurumi – colors: 1730 (Candy yellow), 4146 (Yolk), 7625 (Chestnut) e 8001 (White); Knitting circular needles – 3,5 mm with an 80 cm or more cable; Stuffing; Safety eyes (8 mm) – black; Tapestry needle; Scissors; Maxi Mouline thread– color: black. Level of difficulty 07/25/2024                       Stitches used:   Purl stitch  = p; Knit stitch = k; Knit 2 stitches together  = k2tog; Purl 2 stitches together  = p2tog; Yarn over  = yo. Round  (knit in the round using the magic loop technique) One increase on the same stitch  ( knit one stitch through the front loop and, without dropping the st, knit again through the back loop ) = kfb Left leaning increase  (insert the needle from front to back, under the bar between the stitches, and k this bar as normal)  = m1l Right leaning increase  ( (insert the needle from back to front, under the bar between the stitches, and k this bar through the back loop) = m1r Left leaning decrease  (slip the first st knitwise, the second purlwise, place them back on the left needle and knit both together) = ssk. Bind-off  (knit the first 2 sts in pattern (k or p), lift the first st over the second and drop it, decreasing by one. Repeat until you have 1 st left at the end of the row. Vikkel braid  (Estonian or lateral braid) (Slip the stitches to the cable of the knitting needle, insert a crochet hook between the first 2 stitches, yo, bring it to the front and pull it through the stitch on the hook, repeat until the end of the row. Slip the sts back to the knitting needle and place the stitch on the hook on the right hand needle, then slip the last knitting stitch over the braid one. Magic circle knitting cast-on-  make a magic circle; with a crochet hook, yo, pull it through the magic circle and place it on the knitting needle. Invisible seam  (insert the yarn through the tapestry needle and divide the stitches equally on both needles. Insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Insert the needle on the first st from the front  needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Repeat until the end: insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and drop the stitch; then insert the needle on the first st from the back  needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch. Insert the needle on the first st from the front needle knitwise, draw the yarn through and drop the stitch; insert the needle on the first st from the front needle purlwise, draw the yarn through and don’t drop the stitch). Bind-off with the tapestry needle  (insert the needle purlwise through first 2 sts, draw yarn, insert between both sts through the front, drop first stitch. Repeat until the end.)   Abbreviations : WS : wrong side, RS : right side. Estimated size:  21,5 cm.     Execution   Head With the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut): Cast-on 6 sts on the needles using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k6; Rnd 2: kfb 6 times= 12 sts; Rnd 3: k12; Rnd 4: k1, m1r, (k2, m1r) 5x, k1 = 18 stitches; Rnd 5: k18; Rnd 6: k1, m1r, (k3, m1r) 5x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 7: k24; Rnd 8: k1, m1r, (k4, m1r) 5x, k3 = 30 sts; Rnd 9: k30.; Rnd 10: k1, m1r, (k5, m1r) 5x, k4 = 36 sts; Rnd 11: k36.; Rnd 12: k1, m1r, (k6, m1r) 5x, k5 = 42 sts; Rnd 13: k42.; Rnd 14: k1, m1r, (k7, m1r) 5x, k6 = 48 sts; Rnds 15 to 28 (14 rounds): k48; Mark the middle of the head. Attach the safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, with 8 sts between them. Rnd 29: k2, k2tog around = 36 sts; Rnd 30: k36; Rnd 31: k2tog around = 18 sts; Rnds 32 to 34 (3 rounds): k18.Stuff the plushie until the level of the eyes. Cut the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail.   Body Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 1730 (Candy yellow) . Work from the head down. Rnd 1: k18; Knit one round with a Vikkel braid. Rnd 2: k18; Rnd 3: k1, m1r, (k3, m1r) 5x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 4: k24; Rnd 5: (k1, m1r) 2x, k8, m1r, k1, m1r, k2, m1r, k1, m1r, k8, (m1r, k1, m1r) 2x = 32 sts; Rnd 6.: k32; Rnd 7: k2, m1r, k1, m1r, k10, m1r, k1, m1r, k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k10, m1r, k1, m1r, k2 = 40; Rnd 8.: k40; Rnd 9: k3, m1r, k1, m1r, k12, m1r, k1, m1r, k6, m1r, k1, m1r, k12, m1r, k1, m1r, k3 = 48 sts; Rnd 10: k48; Rnd 11: k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k14, m1r, k1, m1r, k8, m1r, k1, m1r, k14, m1r, k1, m1r, k4 = 56 sts; Rnd 12: k51, slip the remaining 5 sts to a piece of scrap yarn with the help of a tapestry needle. Rnd 13: slip 6 sts to the right hand needle, k18, slip 10 sts to a scrap yarn with the tapestry needle, k18 (there are 48 sts left on the needle and 10 sts on the pieces of scrap yarn, on both sides, to knit the sleeves). So the beginning/end of the next rounds look the same on the side of the body, don’t knit the last 3 stitches and slip all sts back to the needle cable. Next, divide the stitches so there are 24 of them on each needle = 48 sts; Ends 14 to 34 (21 rounds): k48. Cut the yarn, leaving a 40 cm tail. Stuff the body. Put all sts on the needle cable Sew the first 8 stitches on each side of the needle, going through the stitches from the round below. Make a knot. Slip the stitches to a scrap yarn. Put the sts back on the needles; there are 16 sts left on each side of the needle. Sew the next 8 sts from each side of the needle with an invisible seam. Again, put all sts on the needle cable and sew the first 8 stitches on each side of the needle, going through the stitches from the round below. Make a knot. Secure the yarn to the first st on the needle and go back to knitting in the round to create the first leg.   Legs (2) Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut). Rnds 1 to 18 (18 rounds): k16. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) .Rnds 19 to 22 (4 rounds): k16 Rnd 23: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 24: k8. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot. Place the 16 sts on the scrap yarn back on the needle and knit the second leg just like the first.   Arms (2) With the yarn Amigurumi 1730 (Candy yellow): Attach the yarn to the 1st st from the 13th round of the body, after the sts on the scrap yarn. Pick up and knit 10 stitches on the underarm, on the stitches from the 13th row and 2 on each side, on the body. Return the sts on the scrap yarn to the needles, so you have 20 sts on the needles with the magic loop. Rnds 1 and 2: k20; Rnds 3 to 6 (4 ends): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x; Bind-off the sts with the tapestry needle. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut) . Pick up and knit the stitches inside the sleeve on the 2nd row, with a rate of 4 of every 5 stitches. Rnds 7 to 18 (12 rounds): k16. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 8001 (White) . Rnds 19 to 22 (4 rounds): k16; Rnd 23: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 24: k8. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot.   Ears(2) With the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut): Leave a 30 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 10 stitches on the needle. Make a magic loop. Rnd 1: k10; Rnd 2: kfb 10x = 20 sts; Rnd 3: k20; Rnd 4: k1, m1r, k8, m1r, k2, m1r, k8, m1r, k1 = 24 sts; Rnds 5 to 16 (12 rounds): k24. In the next rounds, work in jacquard, changing the yarn to Amigurimi 8001 (White)  according to the bold sections. Rnd 17: k11, k2 , k11 = 24 sts; Rnd 18: k10, k4 , k10 = 24 sts;Rnd 19: k9, k6 , k9 = 24 sts; Rnd 20: k8, k8 , k8, 24 sts; Rnd 21: k6, k12 , k6 = 24 sts; Rnd 22: k3, k18 , k3 = 24 sts; Rnd 23: k1, k22 , k1 = 24 sts. Cut the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut), continue with only Amigurumi 8001 (White). Rnds 24 to 27 (4 rounds): k24; Rnd 28: k1, k2tog around = 16 sts; Rnd 29: k16; Rnd 30: k2tog around = 8 sts; Rnd 31: k8. Bind-off by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot Fold the ear and sew it into the puppy’s head using the tail from the cast-on.   Tail With the yarn amigurumi 8001 (White) Cast-on 8 sts using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k8; Rnd 2: kfb 8x = 16 sts; Rnd 3: k16; Rnd 4: k2, m1r, (k4, m1r) 3x, k2 = 20 sts; Rnd 5: k20. Now, work a few short rows. Continue with the magic loop. Rnd 6 (RS): k19, turn; Rnd 7 (WS): yo, p18, turn; Rnd 8 (RS): k17, turn; Rnd 9 (WS): yo, p16, turn; Rnd 10 (RS): k15, turn; Rnd 11 (WS): yo, p14, turn; Rnd 12 (RS): k13, turn; Rnd 13 (WS): yo, p12, turn; Rnd 14 (RS): k11, turn; Rnd 15 (WS): yo, p10, turn; Rnd 16 (RS): k9, turn. The next row will be the last one with short rows. Rnd 17 (WS): yo, p9, p2tog (the first st being the yo from the previous row, through the back loop) 5x, turn; Rnd 18 (RS): k14, k2tog (the first st being the yo from the previous row) 6x. Go back to knitting in rounds. Rnd 19: k20; Rnd 20: k1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1 = 18 sts; Rnd 21: k1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k1 = 16 sts. Switch to the yarn Amigurumi 7625 (Chestnut). Cut the Amigurumi 8001 (white). Rnd 22: k1, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k1 = 14 sts; Rnd 23: k1, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k1 = 12 sts; Stuff the puppy until the last short row. Rnds 24 to 31 (8 rounds): k12; Bind-off knitwise, leaving a 30 cm tail. Stuff the rest of the plushie. Sew the tail on the body with the tapestry needle, between the legs and 2cm above them.   Snout With the yarn amigurumi 8001 (White) Leave a 20 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 8 sts using the “Magic circle knitting cast-on” method. Rnd 1: k8; Rnd 2: k1, m1r = 12 sts; Rnd 3: k12; Rnd 4: k2, m1r, k1, m1r, (k3, m1r, k1 twisted, m1r) 2x, k1 = 18 sts; Rnd 5: k9, k1 twisted, k5, k1 twisted, k2 = 18 sts; Rnd 6: k3, m1r, k1, m1r, (k5, m1r, k1 twisted, m1r) 2x, k2 = 24 sts; Rnd 7: k12, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, k3 = 24 sts; Rnd 8: k4, m1r, k1, m1r, k7, m1r, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, m1r, k3 = 28 sts; Rnds 9 to 11 (3 rounds): k15, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, k4 = 28 sts; Rnd 12: k15, k1 twisted, k7, k1 twisted, bind-off 3 sts knitwise (the st left on the needle will be bound off in the next round) = 18 sts; Rnd 13: starting with the st left from the previous row, bind-off 16 sts, k8 = 9 sts; Now work flat. Rnd 14: p2tog, p7 = 8 sts; Rnd 15: ssk, k6 = 7 sts; Rnd 16: p2tog, p5 = 6 sts; Rnd 17: ssk, k4 = 5 sts; Rnd 18: p2tog, p3 = 4 sts; Rnd 19: ssk, k2 = 3 sts; Rnd 20: p2tog, p1 = 2 sts; Rnd 21: bind-off the last 2 sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a 50 cm tail. Close the magic circle cast-on by passing the yarn with a tapestry needle through the stitches, then pulling it and making a knot. Hide the yarn tails inside the snout. Start seaming it on the head by the last 2 BO stitches from row 21; seam them to row 9 of the head. Mark the middle of the head between the eyes and attach the last sts from the snout to row 9 of the head. After you seam the triangle created on the top of the snout, sew the sts from row 13 to row 23 of the head. Then, stuff the rest of the snout and seam it to the head. Embroider the nose and mouth with the thread Maxi Mouline in black . Embroider the eyebrows and the eye  details with the thread Maxi Mouline in black.     Shorts With the yarn Amigurumi 4146 (Yolk): Leave a 20 cm tail before casting on the stitches. Cast-on 21 sts on the needles. Work flat. Rows 1, 3 and 5 (WS): (p1 twisted, k1) 10x, p1 twisted = 21 sts; Rows 2 and 4 (RS): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x, k1 twisted = 21 sts; Row 6 (RS): (k1 twisted, p1) 10x, k1 twisted = 21 sts Rows 7 to 10 (4 rows): p on the WS, k on the RS = 21 sts; Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Keep the stitches on the needle cable. Make a second leg, without cutting the yarn, and bring the sts from the first leg back to the needle. Now knit both legs together. Row 11 (RS): k42; Row 12 (WS): p42; Row 13 (RS): k2, m1r, k18, m1r, k2, m1r, k18, m1r, k2 = 46 sts; Row 14 (WS): p46; Row 15 (RS): k2, m1r, k20, m1r, k2, m1r, k20, m1r, k2 = 50 sts; Row 16 (WS): p50; Row 17 (RS): k2, m1r, k22, m1r, k2, m1r, k22, m1r, k2 = 52 sts; Rows 18 to 26 (o rows): p on the WS< k on the RS = 52 sts; Rows 27, 29 and 31 (RS): k1 twisted, p1 = 52 sts; Rows 28, 30 and 32 (WS): k1, p1 twisted = 52 sts. Bind-off all stitches knitwise. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail. Sew the legs until the 9th row. With the leftover yarn from the first leg, sew until the 18th row. With the leftover yarn from the bind-off, sew until the 27th row, from top down. There should be a small hole for the tail to go through the shorts when dressing the puppy.   Designer : Suely Beggiato   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials Nautico 5 mm (500 g), 1 spool in the color 6185 (pink); Circulo 5.5 mm crochet hook; Beige bag base with a 33 cm long zipper and (6 x 13 cm) 21 holes on each side; scissors; Circulo tapestry needle; measuring tape.      Measurements: 14 cm x 22 cm Level of difficulty 07/24/2024                      Crochet stitches used: ch: chain,  slst: slip stitch,  SC: single crochet, fpsc: front post single crochet, DC: double crochet,  fpdc: front post double crochet, stitch pattern: follow chart 1. Abbreviations: st: stitch,  sts:  stitches,  FO: fasten off. Gauge: 10 x 10 cm square in established stitch pattern (chart 1), with 5.5 mm crochet hook = 11 sts x 7 rows. Execution- Bag:  Use the yarn Nautico and a 5.5 mm crochet hook. Work in the round, from top to bottom and making the front and back at the same time following the established st pattern (chart 1). Work the 1st row by making 1 SC on each hole at the base (21 on each side) and ch 3 for each side. Follow chart 1 for rows 2 to 10. FO, leaving a 40 cm tail. Thread the yarn onto the tapestry needle and close the bottom of the bag with basting stitches. Designer : Neddy Ghusmann   Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

07/09/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate size: 21 cm (8.27″). Materials 1 ball of Amigurumi – Colors: 3148 (Macadamia), 8001 (White), 3611 (Rubi), 2829 (Ball Blue), 7567 (Cocoa), and 4448 (Clay); Amigurumi yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); Cléa yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); Anne yarn leftovers – Color: 8001 (White); Crochet hook – 2.5 mm; Tapestry needle; Amigurumi eyes (8 mm) – Color: Brown; Fiberfill for stuffing; Lock Stitch Marker. Stitches used: Increase = inc.; Chain Stitch = ch.; Decrease = dec.; Half Double Crochet = hdc.; Single Crochet = sc. Instructions Body: Start with Amigurumi 8001 (White) yarn: Start from the feet; Make 6 ch.; Rnd. 1: skip 1 ch., 1 inc., 3 sc., 4 sc. together in the last ch., on the other side of the ch.: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 2: 2 inc., 3 sc., 4 inc., 3 sc., 2 inc. = 22 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 3: 22 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnd. 4: 8 sc., 4 dec., 6 sc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 5: 6 sc., 4 dec., 4 sc. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 4 dec., 2 sc. = 10 sc.; Rnd. 7: 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn; Rnds. 8 to 13 (6 rounds): 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 14: 10 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn; Rnd. 15: 10 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnds. 16 to 20 (5 rounds): 10 sc.; Fasten off the first leg; Make the second leg and do not cut the yarn; In the next rnd., join the legs; Make 2 more sc. to reach the side of the 2nd leg and 2 ch. to join both legs; Rnd. 21: 10 sc. in the 1st leg, 2 sc. in the ch., 10 sc. in the 2nd leg, 2 sc. on the other side of the ch. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 22: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 23: 6 sc., 1 inc. = 32 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3611 (Rubi) yarn; Rnd. 24: 32 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn; Rnd. 25: 32 sc. taking the back loops only; Rnd. 26: 6 sc., 1 dec. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 27: 28 sc.; Rnd. 28: 5 sc., 1 dec. = 24 sc.; Rnds. 29 and 30: 24 sc.; Rnd. 31: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 4x, 4 sc. = 20 sc.; Rnds. 32 to 34 (3 rounds): 20 sc.; Rnd. 35: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 15 sc.; Rnd. 36: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 2x, 3 sc. = 13 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn; Start the head; Rnd. 37: 13 inc. = 26 sc.; Rnd. 38: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 39: (5 sc., 1 inc.) 6x, 3 sc. = 45 sc.; Rnds. 40 to 46 (7 rounds): 45 sc.; Place the safety eyes between rnds. 43 and 44, with 5 visible stitches between them, once they are in place; Rnd. 47: (5 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 48: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 33 sc.; Rnd. 49: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 27 sc.; Rnd. 50: (2 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 21 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 51: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 52: 7 dec. = 7 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; With Amigurumi 8990 (Black) yarn, embroider the shoelace; With Cléa 8990 (Black) yarn, embroider the eyebrows and a half smile; With Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn, embroider the nose (between rnds. 42 and 43); With Anne 8001 (White) yarn, embroider the number 10 in the chest and shorts. Arms (2): With Amigurumi 3148 (Macadamia) yarn: Rnd. 1: 4 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 4 inc. = 8 sc.; Rnds. 3 to 14 (12 rounds): 8 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the sides of the body, at the level of the neck. Hair: With Amigurumi 7567 (Cocoa) yarn: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnd. 7: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 42 sc.; Rnds. 8 to 14 (7 rounds): 42 sc.; Make the fringe; Rnd. 15: 2 hdc., 1 sc., 2 hdc., 2 sc. = 7 sts.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the head. Basketball: With Amigurumi 4448 (Clay) yarn: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnds. 5 to 8 (4 rounds): 24 sc.; Rnd. 9: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 10: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 12 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 11: 6 dec. = 6 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; Embroider the stripes on the ball with Cléa 8990 (Black) yarn. Artisan: Viviane Rentroia (@brincardecroche) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 4 skeins of Anne yarn (147 g / 5.2 oz) – Color: 1709 (Gouda); 2.5 mm crochet hook; 1 sewing thread in the same color (Maxxi Círculo sewing thread – color: 145 gouda); Jersey lining fabric; Tracing paper; Pencil; Scissor; Measuring tape; Sewing machine. Size: US 4 / 38 Level of difficulty 07/15/2024 Abbreviations: diagram (diag), motif or motifs (mot), stitch (st), stitches (sts), repeat or repeatition (rep), repeat from to. Stitches required for this pattern (US Terms): Chain (ch); slip stitch (sl. st.), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), double crochet 2 stitches together (dc2tog), stitch pattern (A).: follow diagram 1, stitch pattern (B).: follow diagram 2. Gauge: 4” X 4” (10x10 cm). Stitch pattern A (diag. 1) 2.5 mm crochet hook 20 sts. x 11 rows Instructions: Transfer the dress pattern pieces to tracing paper to use as a reference when making the dress. Note the work direction instructions in diagrams. Dress: Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color. Start from the front neckline, work  back and forth rows. Foundation row: chain 65, work stitch pattern (A) in foundation row following the diag. 1 from the 1st to the 44th row. Continue with the skirt of the dress in rounds (circular crochet). Work front and back at once in circles. Work stitch pattern (B) following the diag. 2 and rep st. The skirt is made of 3 parts in sequence. The first part starts in the 45th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 44 times, total of 22 motifs. Repeat from the 45th to the 69th round. The second part starts in the 70th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 70 times, total of 35 mot. from the 70th to the 94th row. The third part starts in the 95th row: work the 5 chains stitch pattern 104 times, total of 52 mots. from the 95th to the 118th row. 3D border finishing: With the 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color, work over the 70th and the 95th rows, work 4 sc in each 5 chains space. Crochet cord: 2.5 mm crochet hook and Anne yarn in Gouda color. Chain 3, 1st row: Insert the hook in the 2nd chain from the hook, leaving 2 loops in the hook and work 1 sl. st. 2nd row: Rotate the motif through the wrong side on your left, insert the hook in the 2 loops from previous stitch. Now you have 3 loops in the hook, work 1 sl. st. leaving 2 loops in the hook. Work 1 sl. st leaving 1 loop in the hook. Rep. the 2nd row until you reach a 53 inches / 135 cm cord. Lining: Cut the lining following the measurements of the dress pattern. Sew the lining to the dress using the sewing machine. Sew the lining around the front neckline and top side parts. Fold a 1”  hem at the front neckline of the dress to insert the crochet cord and sew on the machine. Crochet designer: Samara Varella Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

07/15/2024 Level of difficulty Approximate Size: 23 cm (9.06″). Materials: 1 ball of Amigurumi – Colors: 7564 (Porcelain), 2829 (Ball Blue), and 3528 (Carmine); 1 ball of Amigurumi Sparkle – Colors: 7030 (Mustard) and 8001 (White); Cléa yarn leftovers – Color: 8990 (Black); 1 ball of Charme – Color: 7311 (Tobacco); Crochet hooks – 2.0 and 2.5 mm; Tapestry needle; Amigurumi eyes (8 mm) – Color: Black; Fiberfill for stuffing; Wire; Lock Stitch Marker. Stitches Used: Increase = inc.; Chain Stitch: ch.; Decrease = dec.; Single Crochet = sc. Instructions Body: Start with 7564 (Porcelain) yarn and 2.5 mm hook; Start from the feet; Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 9 sc.; Rnd. 3: 9 sc.; Rnd. 4: 8 sc., 1 inc. = 10 sc.; Rnds. 5 to 20 (16 rounds): 10 sc.; Fasten off the first leg; Make the second leg and do not cut the yarn; In the next rnd., join the legs; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn on the bolded parts; Make 2 ch. to join both legs; Rnd. 21: 10 sc. in the 1st leg, 2 sc. in the ch., 10 sc. in the 2nd leg, 2 sc. on the other side of the ch. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 22: 5 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 sc., 1 inc., 5 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 1 sc., 1 inc. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 23: 6 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 2 sc., 1 inc., 6 sc., 1 inc., 4 sc., 2 sc., 1 inc. = 32 sc.; Rnd. 24: 1 sc., 11 sc., 5 sc., 10 sc., 5 sc. = 32 sc.; Rnd. 25: 3 sc., 7 sc., 9 sc., 6 sc., 7 sc. = 32 sc.; Continue with Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 26: 6 sc., 1 dec. = 28 sc.; Rnd. 27: 28 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 28: 5 sc., 1 dec. = 24 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 29: 24 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 30: 24 sc.; Rnd. 31: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 4x, 4 sc. = 20 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnds. 32 and 33: 20 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 34: 20 sc.; Rnd. 35: 2 sc., 1 dec. = 15 sc.; Rnd. 36: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 2x, 3 sc. = 13 sc.; Change to Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn; Start the head; Rnd. 37: 13 inc. = 26 sc.; Rnd. 38: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 39: (5 sc., 1 inc.) 6x, 3 sc. = 45 sc.; Rnds. 40 to 46 (7 rounds): 45 sc.; Place the safety eyes between rnds. 43 and 44, with 5 visible stitches between them, once they are in place. Rnd. 47: (5 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 39 sc.; Rnd. 48: (4 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 33 sc.; Rnd. 49: (3 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 27 sc.; Rnd. 50: (2 sc., 1 dec.) 6x, 3 sc. = 21 sc.; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Rnd. 51: 1 sc., 1 dec. = 14 sc.; Rnd. 52: 7 dec. = 7 sc.; Fasten off with a reverse magic ring; With Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn, embroider the nose (between rnds. 42 and 43); With Cléa Black, embroider the eyelashes and apply blush (optional). Arms (2): With Amigurumi 7564 (Porcelain) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 4 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 4 inc. = 8 sc.; Rnds. 3 to 6 (4 rounds): 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnd. 7: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnd. 8: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnds. 9 and 10: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn; Rnds. 11 and 12: 8 sc.; Change to Amigurumi Sparkle 8001 (White) yarn; Rnds. 13 and 14: 8 sc.; Fold and close the sides with 4 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the sides of the body, at the level of the neck. Hair: With Charme 7311 (Tobacco) yarn and 2.0 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnd. 7: 5 sc., 1 inc. = 42 sc.; Rnd. 8: 6 sc., 1 inc. = 48 sc.; Rnd. 9: 7 sc., 1 inc. = 54 sc.; Rnds. 10 to 15 (6 rounds): 54 sc.; Rnd. 16: 7 sc., 1 dec. = 48 sc.; Rnd. 17: 48 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Sew to the head and embroider the fringes. Hair bun: With Charme 7311 (Tobacco) yarn and 2.0 mm hook: Rnd. 1: 6 sc. into the magic ring; Rnd. 2: 6 inc. = 12 sc.; Rnd. 3: 1 sc., 1 inc. = 18 sc.; Rnd. 4: 2 sc., 1 inc. = 24 sc.; Rnd. 5: 3 sc., 1 inc. = 30 sc.; Rnd. 6: 4 sc., 1 inc. = 36 sc.; Rnds. 7 to 10 (4 rounds): 36 sc.; Rnd. 11: 4 sc., 1 dec. = 30 sc.; Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing; Insert stuffing fiberfill; Sew to the top of the head. Hair bun ribbon: With Amigurumi Sparkle 7030 (Mustard) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Make 40 ch. and fasten off. Hula hoop: With Amigurumi 2829 (Ball Blue) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Make a circle 9 cm in diameter with the wire; Cover by making sc. around the entire circle. Ribbon: With Amigurumi 3528 (Carmine) yarn and 2.5 mm hook: Cut a piece of yarn approx. 60 cm long, pass 20 cm through the tapestry needle and make sc. covering the 20 cm of yarn. Fasten off. Artisan: Viviane Rentroia (@brincardecroche) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials: Circulo yarns Charme - 1 ball color 3754 Crochet hook 4mm Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers Measuring tape Size: S Level of difficulty 07/10/2024 Stitch glossary and abbreviations: Chain Stitch (c.h.) Single Crochet (s.c.) Slip Stitch (sl. st.) Double Crochet (d.c.) Execution: Front and back are the same and worked separately. Start with a string of chains with a multiple number of 5 + 3. This will be your bust measurement, from armpit to armpit. Reference for size S: 68 ch. Go back in the 4th ch. and make 1d.c. Continue to the end of the row making d.c. for a total of 66 d.c. Turn the work, make 3 ch. and work this round with d.c. until the end. Turn the work and make 5 ch. skip 4 stitch spaces and in the 5th space insert the needle making in the same stitch space: 1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. make 2 c.h. skip 4 stitch spaces and in the 5th space repeat: 1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Repeat the process until the end of the row, at the end of the row make 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. *Make 1 c.h. turn the work and place 1 s.c.  in the first space at the foot of the chain. Work a fan in the middle of the next V: 3 d.c. 2 c.h. and 3 d.c. In the next space place a s.c. Repeat this process until the end of the round, alternating a fan and a s.c. and finishing with 1 s.c. in the third chain. Turn the work, make 5 c.h. and in the middle of the fan from the previous round insert:1 d.c. 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Work 2 c.h. and in the next fan: 1 d.c., 2 c.h. and 1 d.c. Repeat this process until the end of the row, at the end of the row make 2 c.h. and 1 d.c.* Repeat the pattern from to for 9 more rows, ending with a V row. On the 12th row: pick up 3 c.h. and work d.c. to the end of the row, making 66 d.c. distribute over the spaces: 3 d.c., 2 d.c., 3 d.c. Finish the round with 5 d.c. in the same space. On the rows with only single crochets, the number of stitches should be the same as the number of stitches on the first row (66 d.c.). Round 13: Pick up 3 c.h. and work d.c. to the end of the round. On the 14th row continue the pattern in this way: 4 rows of fans 1 row of V 2 rows of d.c. 30 rows of fans 1 row of V To hem the garment, make 3 rows of d.c. Repeat the process for the second panel. Neckline and armholes: Separate 24cm for each armhole, place the stitch marker. Separate 26 cm for the neckline, leaving 6 cm on each side for the shoulders and place the stitch markers. Join the shoulders on the wrong side with sl. st.. Join the sides on the wrong side with s.c. Finishing: With the double yarn, make a cord with 120 cm of chains and pass it through the garment between the stitches at the waist Created by: Joana Gouveia, @FiosCruzados. Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

⬆️ Click on the photo and journey to Ravelry's website, where you can seamlessly purchase the pattern and bring your crafting dreams to life. Size: 36(40,44,48,52,56,60,64)in By: Angeline Webb Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...

Materials 1 ball of Amigurumi Pelúcia - colors: 7625 (Chestnut), 5743 (Neo Mint), 4456 (Orange) e 7564 (Porcelain); 1 ball of Amigurumi – color: 7569 (Brownie); Scraps of yarn Amigurumi – color: 8176 (Off-White); Safety eyes (10 mm) – Cor: Castanho; Crochet hook - 3,5 mm; Tapestry needle; Polyfill stuffing. Level of difficulty Stitches used: Increase= incr.; Triple increase = Tincr.; Chain= ch.; Decrease= decr..; Double crochet = DC; Single crochet = SC. Approximate size 21,5 cm height Execution: Legs (2), body and head Start with the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 4-6th round (3 rounds): 18 SC; 7th round: 3 SC, 6 decr., 3 SC = 12 SC. Switch to the color 5743 8th round: 12 SC; 9th round: 3 SC, 1 incr. = 15 SC; 10th round: 4 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 11th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 24 SC; Fasten off  the first leg. Make a second leg and, without cutting the yarn, continue: 12th round: 1 SC in the second leg, 24 SC in the first one, 23 SC in the second leg = 48 SC; 13th round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 54 SC Stuff the legs with polyfill. 14-16th rounds (3 rounds): 54 SC Switch to the color 4456 17-20th rounds (4 rounds): 54 SC; 21st round: 16 SC, 1 decr. = 51 SC; 22nd round: 15 SC, 1 decr. = 48 SC; 23rd round: 14 SC, 1 decr. = 45 SC; 24th round: 13 SC, 1 decr. = 42 SC; 25th round: 5 SC, 1 decr. = 36 SC; 26th round: 4 SC, 1 decr. = 30 SC; 27th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 24 SC. Stuff the body with polyfill. Switch to the color 7625 28th round: 24 SC; 29th round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 36 SC; 30th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 48 SC; 31st round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 54 SC; 32-41st rounds (10 rounds): 54 SC Attach the safety eyes between rounds 38 and 39, 10 sts apart from each other. 42nd round: 7 SC, 1 decr. = 48 SC; 43rd round: 6 SC, 1 dim. = 42 SC; 44th round: 5 SC, 1 decr. = 36 SC; 45th round: 4 SC, 1 decr. = 30 SC; 46th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 24 SC; 47th round: 2 SC, 1 decr. = 18 SC Stuff the head with polyfill. 48th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 12 SC; 49th round: 6 decr. = 6 SC. Fasten off with an inverted magic ring. With the color 7567, embroider the eyebrows in a diagonal between rounds 40-41 with a 4 sts width; Embroider the eye detail with the color 8176. Ears With the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 12 SC; 4th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 8 SC Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming. Sew the ears between rows 43 and 44 of the head. Snout With the color 7564 1st round: 6 SC dentro do anel mágico; 2nd round: 1 SC, 1 Tincr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 2 SC, 1 Tincr., (3 SC, 1 Tincr.) 2x, 1 SC = 18 SC; 4th round: 18 SC. Fasten off. Stuff it with a bit of polyfill. Sew it between rounds 32 and 38 of the head, leaving one of the Tincr. facing downwards; With the color 7567, embroider the nose and smile. Arms (2) Start with the color 7625 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 3 SC, 1 incr. = 15 SC; 4th round: 15 SC Switch to the color 4456 5-7th rounds (3 rounds): 15 SC; 8th round: 3 SC, 1 decr. = 12 SC; 9th round: 12 SC; 10th round: 2 SC, 1 decr. = 9 SC; 11th round: 9 SC; 12th round: 1 SC, 1 decr. = 6 SC Stuff the hand with polyfill. Fold and sew the sides with 3 SCs Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the arms between rows 25 and 27 of the body. Hat Start with the color 5743 1st round: 6 SC on a magic ring; 2nd round: 6 incr. = 12 SC; 3rd round: 1 SC, 1 incr. = 18 SC; 4th round: 2 SC, 1 incr. = 24 SC; 5th round: 24 SC; 6th round: 7 SC, 1 incr. = 27 SC; 7th round: 27 SC; Switch to the color 4456 8th round: 8 SC, 1 incr. = 30 SC Switch to the color 5743 9th round (only on the front loop of the sts): 4 SC, 1 incr. = 36 SC; 10th round: 5 SC, 1 incr. = 42 SC Fasten off. Scarf With the color 5743 Chain 6; 1st round: skip 3 chains (counts as as 1 DC), 3 DC = 4 DC; 2nd-34th rounds (33 rounds): ch. 2 (counts as 1 DC), 3 DC = 4 DC Fasten off. Created by: Juliana Penhorate (@amigujumi) Disclaimer: Measurements are approximate due to differences between centimeters and inches, needle sizes and tension. All care has been taken to allow accurate completion of the pattern. See more about...